allmyEXes
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- February 6, 2016
- Messages
- 2,904
- Reaction score
- 1,948
- City, State
- No. Alabama USA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1997 Blue Ex 4.0 SOHC
- Callsign
- KAGG 3611 (CB)
I received my parts in a timely fashion and Monday afternoon was able to start on the lower ball joint replacement. Now I am daily driving this truck so I have to be able to do repairs on it and still drive home at the end of the day. The plus side to this is every time I replace one part and then drive it I can track the results.
I have already done the disassembly involved to get to the lbj.
Tool installed pressing out old part
Majority of the tools involved
New Lower Ball Joint
Lower control arm ready for new part (yes I did replace the bushings in the SB ELK)
Comparing new and old part
Don't let the FoMoCo original fool you like it did me. When I was picking out a collar to use to remove it, I sized it up on the new LBJ. The tool was sitting on the ridge of the old part and I used a 3 ft long breaker bar to turn the C-clamp part of the tool. The ball joint never moved. Picked out another collar out of the kit and was able to proceed.
Ball joint/u-joint tool kit from Advance Auto. $229- plus tax. 100% refund when returned. Home Depot sells these for under $200
another view
This pic should be rotated 90 degrees. At the bottom of the picture are the 3 items plus the clamp that I used to remove the LBJ. At the top are the pieces plus the clamp to install.
After using this tool I see If I had a piece of pipe large enough to go around the collar of the original LBJ and a VERY heavy duty c-clamp I could remove it without renting the big kit but I recommend it if you have the resources.
All in all not a difficult task to perform. My biggest problem Tuesday afternnoon on the 2nd side (passenger) I felt like I was going to pass out in the felt like 106 degree heat index. Stay hydrated and don't forget to move your fan when you move to the 2nd side.
Post Note: The Explorer drives straight again and I had a small problem with the steering wheel being turned to the right when the truck was going straight. I got back on the concrete and adjusted the left (drivers side in the U.S.) one full turn. About 1/16 of an inch more toe in. Test drove on the way home and the steering wheel is centered now. RH outer tie rod needs replaced soon. The grease boot is gone and I can feel a little wear in that particular tie rod end.
I have a total of $80- in the upper control arms (see other post) and the lower ball joints. Thanks Rock Auto.
I have already done the disassembly involved to get to the lbj.
Tool installed pressing out old part
Majority of the tools involved
Comparing new and old part
Don't let the FoMoCo original fool you like it did me. When I was picking out a collar to use to remove it, I sized it up on the new LBJ. The tool was sitting on the ridge of the old part and I used a 3 ft long breaker bar to turn the C-clamp part of the tool. The ball joint never moved. Picked out another collar out of the kit and was able to proceed.
Ball joint/u-joint tool kit from Advance Auto. $229- plus tax. 100% refund when returned. Home Depot sells these for under $200
another view
This pic should be rotated 90 degrees. At the bottom of the picture are the 3 items plus the clamp that I used to remove the LBJ. At the top are the pieces plus the clamp to install.
After using this tool I see If I had a piece of pipe large enough to go around the collar of the original LBJ and a VERY heavy duty c-clamp I could remove it without renting the big kit but I recommend it if you have the resources.
All in all not a difficult task to perform. My biggest problem Tuesday afternnoon on the 2nd side (passenger) I felt like I was going to pass out in the felt like 106 degree heat index. Stay hydrated and don't forget to move your fan when you move to the 2nd side.
Post Note: The Explorer drives straight again and I had a small problem with the steering wheel being turned to the right when the truck was going straight. I got back on the concrete and adjusted the left (drivers side in the U.S.) one full turn. About 1/16 of an inch more toe in. Test drove on the way home and the steering wheel is centered now. RH outer tie rod needs replaced soon. The grease boot is gone and I can feel a little wear in that particular tie rod end.
I have a total of $80- in the upper control arms (see other post) and the lower ball joints. Thanks Rock Auto.