1997 Explorer 4.0 SOHC Automatic 2WD Test drive | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums

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1997 Explorer 4.0 SOHC Automatic 2WD Test drive

As far as I know, a two wire sensor produces low AC voltage and the wires don't need a polarity, can be connected either way. However I glanced at a wiring diagram (might be wrong) and it shows a 3 wire camshaft sensor and 2 wire crankshaft. Either way, you might look through the wiring diagrams in my sig and figure out the right connector pins to the ECM, then while cranking, measure for low AC volts if two wire or DC volts if 3 wire. You could also measure along the wire using insulation piercing meter probes.

I too, would want to use Forscan to look at data trying to start it.
 



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I just finished probing the new connector/wires beyond where I spliced them. I'm getting continuity. I have the plastic part of the connector removed. I decided to heat shrink the metal ends so that I can temporarily plug them directly on to the sensor. If it doesn't run I'll test wires all the way to the PCM connector.
 






Alright... Thanks @J_C and @donalds. The white'97 is running again. I didn't have to test the wires all the way back to wire #21 and #22 on the PCM connector. Thanks for the access to the wiring diagrams.
I created the latest problem. When I was replacing the connector I reversed polarity. I swapped the wires from there home position. IIUC the sensor puts out an AC signal however according to the wiring diagram the wires are labeled positive (+) and negative (-). I swapped them and got it to start and run.

For those who end up finding this through a search this is how to change your CKP and connector.
Remove your rubber air intake tube. Use your special 36mm wrench for your fan. Take (2) 10mm bolts out of your fan shroud. Lift the fan blade and shroud out from under the hood. Disconnect CKP connector. If it won't come a loose remove (2) 8mm bolts holding CKP to engine. Then gently pull part and harness towards the radiator. A plastic wire retainer will pop a loose. Now move the harness upward. It will be easy to work on at this height. Cut/strip/solder/heatshrink the two wires for the connector. Cut one at a time to do this as to not get them mixed up. Now reassemble everything. Sounds easy with instructions, doesn't it? Thanks J_C and donalds for helping me figure this out. If you are ever going to need to remove your fan/clutch go ahead and purchase the special wrench. It is a 1/4" thick and it will fit down in there where the big fan nut is located.
I have driven it now ~3000 miles and is running well and haven't had a bit of problems with the manual tensioners. :whitenavajo:
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The truck is still running well. I have been chasing a p0401 code. I can access and delete the DTC and after about 3 weeks it will come back. The time before when the check engine light came on it was p0402. Cleared it and it didn't happen again. This last time it was p0401.
 






@J_C I think that you are thinking p0301 and p0302. Myp0401 and p0402 are EGR related. Late yesterday I picked up a can of carburetor cleaner that I am going to clean the throttle body/EGR passage and while it is off the IAC. I also am going to swap out the EGR control valve solenoid/motor while I am at it. I hope all of this helps.
 






^ Oops, yeah that was incorrect info so post deleted. Yes clean the EGR. There's also a DPFE sensor, not sure how to test that with it intermittent. Maybe it shows up on a scan tool, never checked that.
 






The throttle body on the 4.0 didn't have an EGR passage.I had the EGR off of it and cleaned it anyway and checked it. It moves when vacuum is applied to the port. It wasn't very dirty and the IAC looked good. A few weeks back I put a DPFE on it. The only thing I haven't done now is change the EGR control valve solenoid/motor. Just drove 15 miles to the big city then on the way back the check engine light came back on. P0401 again!
 






Sunday the 18th I had a few minutes that I could look under the hood and do one more task as it relates to the P0401 code. I unfastened the new DPFE inspected the hoses which looked really good and the I took a very small welding rod, 1/2 the diameter of a coat hanger and pushed down through the two DPFE ports on the EGR tube. It kind f felt like an obstruction on the front tube and the rear one felt like there wasn't an obstruction.
This morning my Wife drove it to work for the first time. The mileage when she left the house was 151,662. I'm hoping that 100,000 more miles can be put on it before she retires in 7 years. (7 years to work and back will be 105,000). We will be on top of all of the preventive maintenance. Oil change every 3300, etc.
The p0401 code did not happen this morning. It has been started 4 times since I cleaned the DPFE tubes.
Thanks for everyone's help along the way with this vehicle. We can't ever afford a brand new car/truck!
 






The white '97 is running well this week. My Wife drove it to work three times, 180 miles and the CEL didn't come back on. Last night we drove from Alabama to Tennessee to see the newest grandbaby. #8. Boy. That's 6 boys and 2 girls. I thought that I would throw that in. Anyway when we got to where we are going the check engine light was on. When we got back home I read the DTC's stored and it came back as P0401 again. I cleared it. This morning when the Wife started it to go to work I heard it shut down. I immediately knew what the problem was. Went out and opened the hood, sure enough, the hard plastic IAC tube had come out of the rubber intake tube, AGAIN! I'm going to have to use a screw, glue or a little piece of mig wire or paperclip to keep this from popping out. It is quite annoying and create a heck of a vacuum leak. By 6:45 a.m. She will be calling and I'll see if we have a CEL again. By the way, i sure like her clocking in at 7a.m. every morning instead of 5a.m. (inhumane).
Updated at 6:50 a.m. The CEL didn't come back on...
 












Maybe. I think part of the problem where I used a piece of heater hose to fix the broken "Y" hose on the IAC line. I need a molded HH curve to fix it with where it will sit better then the hose clamp you suggested would work.
 






For months now I've driven the white '97 ~3000 miles. Roughly 10 or 12 miles a day. Now that my Wife id driving it, she is putting 60 miles a day on it.
I've always had a fuel smell that I couldn't track down and the PCM finally presented a DTC code. P0442. I think that it is pointing towards this as a possible problem.
Vapor purge flow sensor.
I'm not sure myself. Studying about it though.
p0442 on the code chart says, The P0442 code means that the control module has detected a small leak in the Evaporative Emission (EVAP). Loose fuel tank filler cap is the most common cause that triggers the P0442 code.
I know that it could be one or more of a different thing or two. One thing for sure is a PO very aggressively "punched out" the inside of the filler neck. Maybe he/she was trying to get the fuel out of it after it broke down. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that was part of the problem. I thought that I had a filler neck of of the '97 MM but something about it different. Maybe the fact that it was a V-8 truck. Any insight would be appreciated.
 






I went through this myself
Someone pulled out the little flapper
My advice
Do a smoke test on the system should be a test port in the engine bay
If you had Forscan I could show you how to turn on and off the the 2 solenoids
And see the pressure transducer pics

I had the gas smell no code tho
I bought a very nice quality replacement
 






Which one did you purchase?
Edited at 4:44 p.m. central time, The link wouldn't work.
 












The White '97 has been running/driving a year now. About 6000 miles has logged and it's time for the 2nd oil change. I've been running 10W30 high mileage oil. I know it cam from the factory with 5W30. There haven't been any steering issues. I smell gas often and even after a new DPFE I'm still getting a P0401 and P0442 codes. I cleaned the EGR little tubes when I installed the DPFE. I read back and see where I need to change another part. I don't so much mind the codes, they make me read the PCM regularly. The biggest thing though is as long as no engine damage is occurring as a result of these condition/s....
 






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