1997 "white" 4.0 SOHC primary and D side secondary chain guide repair-Several pressing June 2025 repairs- | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums

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1997 "white" 4.0 SOHC primary and D side secondary chain guide repair-Several pressing June 2025 repairs-

I see that I didn't post the last repair effort here, It's in my '97MM thread. Sometime, I will edit it in this spot.
 



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The '97 white "GW" has been doing well but must have heard me when I said that I was letting the Mountaineer 5.0 project rest a few days. It had to have some attention too.
Saturday after my wife got home, just after I was wondering if something happened to her, at supper she told me about a slapping noise under the hood but it went away. I couldn't finish supper first. I had to go outside and open the hood and the good but used serpentine belt was missing two ribs. These 4.0 SOHCs are more difficult to put a belt on than the 5.0s. When I saw rubber and cord wrapped around the fan blade shaft and the upper slick idler, I knew that I was going to need to pull the radiator again. That will be the 4th time since early April. The slick idle which turns backwards would wiggle and when I got it apart, I could feel catchy spots when rotating the bearing. Catchy enough that it broke the RH thread bolt a loose. It seems that from a design standpoint that if something is going to rotate counter clockwise then a LH thread bolt would be a better choice. But anyway, after going to the shop to get one of the 86.5 long belts, I'm thinking to myself, where is a good idler? It turned out that the yellow 2002 Sport Trac has a 4.0 too. I went over to it and was able to check it out and it was good. It didn't take long to get it all back together and I didn't have an antifreeze mess because I'm still running water after having it apart several months earlier. Just a few minutes ago, I topped off the radiator, I took one more quart after a 1/2-mile test drive, enough for the thermostat to open. I'm glad that we didn't have an idler failure on the Florida trip or halfway in between on my wife's 4 days a week, 65 mile round-trip each day. I have installed a RH spindle in her work parking lot before. I think that she has put close to 60,000 miles on the truck since the left side cylinder head repair. I meant to check the mileage when I was around it.
Shredded belt pictured below. I put it in the garbage can instead of my work truck. In an emergency, the shredded part could have been cut off to get the truck to a safe place.
97ex shreeded belt.jpg

97ex 10-06-24.jpg

More later, I'm sure.
 






Well done!
Now you need idler for yellow trac
 






Yep! An idler pulley, INTAKE, aluminum thermostat housing, 2 manual tensioners, timing chain and guide set, 6 exhaust valves, some gaskets, oil and filter. Am I missing anything? Battery. Tires have low miles. New fuel pump and brakes.
 






Sunday, I swapped the 2002 yellow Sport Trac radiator, fan shroud and lower hose into the '97 white 4.0 SOHC 4dr. I had the radiator out 4 times since April. One time I noticed that someone had glued a crack in the side that happened when the right front corner was hit by an uninsured white tail while the PO was driving. It was starting to seep a bit or more. All is well with it now, and 2.5 gallons of straight antifreeze put in.
Last night after some difficult night driving, I decided that something more needs to be done about the lighting. A picture of some of Jamie's lights reminded me that I have some 'cat eye' lights from 25 years ago. They came off of a totaled Mustang and weren't used very much. In 1999 when the family moved on to the mini farm, we didn't have grid power for 45 days. I rigged them up to mount on the outside wall where the old porch light had been. We had them pointing at the steps and the charcoal grill. I remember them being watt monsters and would take the car battery down really quick. On a vehicle with a charging system, they will be fine. If the old driving light circuit has a relay, I can hook them straight up. If not, I'll need a relay. Does that circuit have a relay? Also, I remember something about this circuit is only on with the high beams or low beams? I think that these lights will help, and I'll install them this weekend.
cat eye lights ~1999.jpg
 






In December I had got started on installing the "cat eye" driving lights. I still need to get them working. I got involved removing the best stock light set from the certified '97 blue "beater". They were in good shape and wanted to get the "made in China" Euro style that never fit right, off of it. The internal vacuum metalized insides was starting to bubble up a bit. I took the worst set off of my '98 Green 5.0 junk donor for my '65 5.0 Mustang Fastback project and put the worst lights on the beater.
Any of you guys and gal, with a '98, tell me if yours has the 3 wire and return fuel set-up on a 5.0 or the later '98 style. 2 wire camshaft sensor and non-return fuel. I wanted to look at the build date to see what month and year that my 3 wire is, but the driver's door has been swapped.
Back to the '97 white 4 door. Mid-June, I had to do an emergency quick repair swapping the rear brake pads. I don't think that something is floating properly on the left side. I've been doing a lot of running back and forth in my wife's truck, this one, and I'm seeing what all that it needs. The shifter cable suddenly had a problem, a recently new cable, that made me think that the two T-30s under the dash worked loose. Nope! The lower cable housing popped out of the bracket attached to the transmission. I got it popped back in to the bracket for now and spread the tangs out a bit. I was test driving to Wal-Mart to get something for my wife who is recovering at home after some health issues. On the way there as I was looking at the cruise switches that I was going to take out of the beater, the cruise control system made a loud pop and quit working. I did the diagnostic test and sometimes button 4 wouldn't light up. I put in the new switches and it still wouldn't work. I took the red switch off the master cylinder that didn't have the factory recall "pigtail" and swapped with the beater including adding the pigtail. This still did not make the cruise control system work.
I could hear the old servo respond at times but decided that it had to be the problem and mechanically broke internally. Electrically energized and made noise. I swiped the servo/cable assembly off of the beater and now the cruise control works again. The blue beater no longer has cruise. It is getting sold as soon as I can get it cleaned out, swap a driver's seat and back hatch. Then I will be done with it. It has served us well and we have probably driven it 100k miles.
I'll do a milage check Monday on the white '97 while I have the instruments out to do a full bulb swap. One or two are burned out and I imagine that the others are old. Ford didn't make it easy to pull the bezel to get the instruments out. You have to slide out the stereo and remove the kneecap buster panels. I suppose it could be worse.
Forgive me, no interesting pics!
 






Nice story!

With a good impact a 7mm and 8mm I can have the cluster out in about 12 minutes
There are 6 illumination bulbs in the cluster, I’ve been using these good LEDs from
Amazon… really brightens up the cluster. Good time to remove the globe and give the gauge faces a good dusting
 






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