1997 "white" 4.0 SOHC primary and D side secondary chain guide repair-Fill neck hose replace-

[drdoom]

That is similar to my own situation, early on I confirmed that the left chain had jumped one tooth. As you described the CMP nub is around 11 o'clock. I will realign the camshaft once I get the new guides in place.

 

[allmyEXes]

Here is a picture of the guides that I captured when I was looking for the 4USA kit that I couldn't find. This is a budget brand kit and I was looking at the picture to see if the primary chain tensioner was the updated 6 leaf design.

 

[allmyEXes]

After lifting up the front end of the passenger valve cover, when the crank is straight up the camshaft slots are parallel to the head. If I can fab a piece to hold the camshaft that would be good? Balance shaft marks were not in alignment.

 

[donalds]

This may help

 

[allmyEXes]

I have ordered an OTC 5609 Leakage Tester and it should be here by the weekend. I am hoping that
I don't have any bent valves on the left bank/drivers side cylinder head and this tool will help me determine this. I am going to unbolt the camshaft from the top of the head to close all of the valves before the test. I am avoiding turning this cam and it has already jumped a tooth with the camshaft rotated clockwise putting the camshaft sensor "nub" in the 1'oclock position. This may have happened when I rotated the crank earlier.
Post #29 has a video that shows how to perform the test using this OTC tool. It is another type of engine, make and model vehicle which I think is good because it makes one focus on the tool usage and not the 4.0 Ford engine. I will be able to use this tool in the future on many other auto/truck engines.

 

[drdoom]

You may be able to just pop the cam followers out, I have seen it done on a modular V8, but not on this engine so I don't know if that works on the V6. I have popped some back in my V6 before though, just never taken them out.

 

[drdoom]

I finally had a couple hours to work on the truck this evening, so first I got the replacement guide arm assembly worked down into the engine. The lower bolt was challenging, but after ten minutes or so I got it in. Mind you I am working behind the jackshaft sprocket. Then I put the camshaft sprocket back in place loosely, regaining the jumped tooth according to paint marks I put on prior to disassembly. Then I put the top T30 bolt back in and torqued it down. Next I will need to carefully loosen my camshaft holding tool up a bit, and bring the camshaft back into time, re-tighten the holding tool, and torque the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt.

The rest of the time I had was spent cleaning the timing cover in preparation for reinstallation.

Doc

 

[allmyEXes]

Is the bottom hole in the LH replacement guide arm assembly a pivot point for the guide? How did you check to see if some valves could be bent? This weekend I may drain the oil and remove the 2 piece oil pan to gain access to the balance shaft tensioner and clean all of the plastic debris out of it. I hope that I don't have to lift the engine up any because, at home, I don't have a way to lift from overhead.
EDIT: According to the fairly accurate Weather Channel it looks as though It will be rainout from any underside work after a flood Friday night into Saturday...

 

[drdoom]

Yes, the lower bolt is the pivot point for the tension side, traction side is fixed by the upper bolt.
As far as checking for valve damage, therein lies the folly of my project. I have done no testing. I have only a compression tester, and was not going to risk damage by spinning the engine. The engine ran well after the traction side guide fragged and busted the valve cover, and I parked it immediately until I had a chance to tear into it. I used a chain and winch to pull it into our shop, because I was not going to start the engine until it is repaired.

This is a gamble, and I have known that all along, but I have been out of work for quite some time and funds are extremely scarce.
When I first pulled the valve cover for inspection, if I would have seen it had jumped more than one tooth, I would not have proceeded without obtaining a tester like the one you have.
I have another Explorer, a lifted 3G Eddie Bauer V8, but honestly this '97 XLT is a much better vehicle in my opinion.
Hopefully I can keep it running a while longer.

Doc

 

[allmyEXes]

Thanks for your reply. Also I understand exactly where you are coming from. When I purchased this white one the chains etc had already malfunctioned. I started it to hear what I was getting myself into and also drove it up onto the Tow-Dolly so my odds vs yours as far as valves contacting the pistons are a lot higher. I contemplated pulling the left head but I wasn't too excited about it so I ordered the tester tool.
From reading what each other has posted it sounds like mine is off a tooth the other direction which I assume happened when I rotated the crank backwards while trying to break a loose the hb/damper bolt?? I am really going to have to make sure that everything is lined up as far as the timing is concerned. I'll probably rent the tool.

 

[allmyEXes]

Has anyone purchased one of the tensioners from this company? Just wanting to make sure that it's Genuine Motorcraft.
NEW OEM Left Driver Side Timing Belt Chain Tensioner Damper Ford 4.0L 7U3Z6K254B | eBay

 

[donalds]

Looks liget to me rite down to the box don't forget the gasket

 

[allmyEXes]

OK Gang...I'm "fixin' to" (about to) remove the left (drivers side) camshaft to close the valves if this is Ok to do this without creating another issue. Any input?

 

[donalds]

Why not grab the cam with a pipe wrench to move it and hold it

 

[allmyEXes]

The LH cam is out of time and I need to close all of the valves to perform the cylinder pressure test on the 3 left cylinders. Also I want to rotate the crankshaft for a couple of revolutions while I am watching what the RH cam is doing as it relates to the primary timing chain, jackshaft and other RH components.

 

[donalds]

Oh I see I just rotated the engine buy hand with my finger on the spark plug hole when you get pressure then your valves are closed and then test but I can see remove ing the cam to I guess I'm lazy lol good luck I can't wait to hear the results

 

[allmyEXes]

My new tester is a 2 gauge type that one pressures up with compressed air instead of a compression gauge that pressures up from rotating the engine. This is a tight engine. I will rotate it clockwise with a 1/2" drive ratchet. I am going to take out the #1 plug before doing this to determine if I am currently out 180 degrees (edited-according to the offset cam groove, it is at TDC and in "time"). Also I will take out the 3 left bank spark plugs so that I can even turn it with the valves closed (on the left side) from the cam being removed.
Darn the "windchill"...

 

[donalds]

It's cold there that sux it's like 65 f here
If you lived near me I would help ya this **** is fun for me


Damn I need to get out more lol

 

[allmyEXes]

I appreciate the offer. If it's not on the cold side there yet It will be after the rain passes through. I have one bolt left to undo on the cam retainers. The bolt heads of the cam retainer (cap) are very short and my 6 point socket does not have flat edges for the first 3/32" of the socket, so I am going to have to grind the end of the socket off a bit to get full contact on the sides of the head of the bolt/s. I guess that I will stop after that unless my Amazon package arrives. (I'm still waiting on the tool, the OTC 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit ).

 

[allmyEXes]

The modification of the socket worked. At first I thought that the tool problem was the wore out 12 point 10mm socket.
Now I am done until tools and parts arrive. Oh yeah, the oil pan. Oh goody/(goodie).

Added-Earlier today I removed the drivers side hydraulic Tensioner and I can compress it with my index finger and thumb.