1998 Explorer goes dead as soon as you try and start

[Winfied Lange]

Daughter has a 1998 Ford Explorer. As soon as you try and start it, it goes dead. I have found that I can disconnect the battery, and reconnect it, and everything goes back on until you try and start it again. I have put a voltmeter to the battery and it is good. I put the voltmeter to just the cable clamps connected to the battery and they are good until I try and start the engine with the ignition, then the voltmeter will read 2.5 volts from the clamps. Reset by disconnecting the battery for a second, and then it everything comes back unless I try and start it again.

 

[boominXplorer]

Will it run on a jump start? A bad battery can still give 12v but under load it will drop dramatically. Also check your terminals for corrosion and make sure they are tight. If all that's all good then I'd say replace the ground cable to make sure it's good. I have seen bad grounds plenty of times on 2nd gen explorers

 

[Winfied Lange]

The battery reads 12.8 volts on my voltmeter. Just to be sure, I took it to the WalMart and they checked it as good. I turned the ignition on but did not try and start it. I turned the head lights on, and then it went dead, so it looks like an additional load, like from trying to start it, or the ignition turned on and then turn on the headlights kills everything. I just went and reset it again by disconnecting the battery. I turned on the headlights, then turned the key to the first click. Working. Next click and the ding ding from the headlights being on and the door being open goes slower. Went to the ignition to the next click, but not starting, and it last 2 to 3 seconds, then the load gets too much, and everything shuts off, to which I can reset by disconnecting the battery.

 

[Winfied Lange]

Also, I have a big battery charger cart that allows me to jump start the car, which I have tried, plus tried jump starting from my other car.

 

[boominXplorer]

Take your jumper cables and connect the negative cable to the battery terminal and the other end to a good non rusty area to the frame or body and see if it makes a difference.

Also read battery voltage using body groud and check for power at the fuse box. Then compare to actual battery voltage. If it's .3 or more lower you have an issue in your cables.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, it's in the cables or the connections to them. At the age of 10-20+ years, the main power/ground cables begin to have major conductivity losses. It usually shows up by disconnecting one or both battery terminals, and then the engine starts fine after cleaning and reconnecting.

My 91 Lincoln did that ten years ago. After replacing the power cable(custom), it worked fine for about two years. Then the new cable had too much corrosion in the wires.I then replaced the set of cables with near new 98-01 Explorer cables. That fixed it, for now(eight years later). I think battery cables should be replaced at a certain age, more often in colder climates. I've been hunting for three more sets of 98-01 302 battery cables. Post a part number if you dig it up, to help others.

 

[Winfied Lange]

Alright, the mystery is over and the winner goes to WALMART WHO SELL CRAPPY BATTERIES. It is under 3 years so they gave me a replacement, but if it wasn't for that, I would have gone an bought a good one. Just wouldn't take a load.

 

[XLTrunner]

Glad to hear you solved the problem. Goes to show that a battery can read 12.8 volts and still not have enough reserve power to crank an engine. Just dealt with this myself with an aging Interstate battery. As far as Walmart having poor quality batteries, I've used their EverStart Maxx for my small household fleet of cars and have never been disappointed in how long they lasted. I believe a leading consumer magazine (maybe Consumer Report?) even listed them as a Best Buy. In my part of the country (MN), a battery will typically last about 5 yrs...at which time, you're flirting with potential problems on a cold winter start. My dad in AZ, however, says he's lucky to get 3 yrs out of any battery due to extreme summer heat.

 

[Winfied Lange]

I have found out it wasn't the battery. Turns out that it was caused by me installing LED bulbs in the brake lights which drained the battery, even though my voltmeter read 12.8 volts.