1998 Explorer will not start. | Ford Explorer Forums

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1998 Explorer will not start.

kaxfenix

Member
Joined
April 1, 2003
Messages
15
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City, State
Fort Worth Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 XLT
I have a 98 ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC 2wd.

As the title says the explorer will not start it cranks but will not actually start.

Little History leading up to where I am now.

This thing in the past has had a mind of it's own where it will not start for a stretch ( few hours - a few days) and then vola, it starts and never have an issue for months to even years.

This time it was a bit different, after running all over town for several hours it sat in the Drive way for about an hour and a half, Went to start it and it STARTED But then Died. It hasn't started since.

Things I have checked.

1) fuel pump reset switch it is pressed down.

2) I am getting Fuel when I check the Schraeder valve and it squirts when I crank the engine.

3)I have Checked to ensure I am getting a Spark from the plugs and I am.

4)I have ruled out it being the anti Theft system/Keyless entry, but this has been the culprit in the past (is there a definite method to rule that out?)

5) I have attempted to jump the car just to see if it made a difference, and it didn't.

6) I have sprayed starter fluid into the air intake and had some attempt to crank it over. This has not worked it just continues to crank and crank.

That's basically the extent of my know how on diagnosing this thing. While it is not a huge inconvenience to be with out my vehicle, it is a on going annoyance and I am frustrated with having to deal with this issue even as inconsistent as it is....

To me this feels different than the past similar issue just based on the fact that it started then died and will not start again especially after being just recently used. Opposed to it sitting over night or not being used for several days and then having this problem.

So the great minds of this board I beg you.. Please help me get this thing running and stamp out this issue once and for all!
 



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To answer question #4 yes you can check this.
Turn the key on without starting and look at the theft lite on the dash, if its flashing, you have a problem.
Read this thread, we just went through this, its a common problem on the 98.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261907

Bob
 






Crank position sensor??
 












You need 3 things for combustion, air, fuel and spark. So checked and verified fuel and spark, lets just assume air is getting there too. Next on the list of things to make it run would be the timing off the spark. That leads us to the CPS. Have you checked for any error codes?
 






If it was the Crank position Sensor wouldn't this not let the engine spark?

I can get my hands on a code reader probably later today. I will let you know.
 






Assuming it is this sensor..If I remember correctly it is located on the front passenger side of the engine ( SOHC V6) near the crank shaft pulley correct?

Also could it be as easy as tapping on it to resolve said issue or would I probably need to replace it..

With a Code Reader reflect or point out that this is the culprit in this case?

For my own purposes can you link me a picture of said part?
 






had the same problem 3 weeks ago, i was driving and it just died, and would crank but not start, i was told there is no oil pressure and it will not start with no oil pressure, i am now having my motor replaced because the oil pump went..... check you oil pressure
 






Oil pressure is not an issue. Thanks for the tip though!
 






Pats

I confirmed what PATS does with a good key vs bad key.

Good key:
THEFT illuminates briefly every few seconds when key is out or ignition is Off
THEFT illuminates continuously for a few seconds when key first turned to ignition On, then THEFT no longer illuminates.

Bad key:
THEFT illuminates briefly every few seconds when key is out or ignition is Off
THEFT rapidly blinks when key first turned to ignition On and continues to do so
 






I confirmed what PATS does with a good key vs bad key.

Good key:
THEFT illuminates briefly every few seconds when key is out or ignition is Off
THEFT illuminates continuously for a few seconds when key first turned to ignition On, then THEFT no longer illuminates.

Bad key:
THEFT illuminates briefly every few seconds when key is out or ignition is Off
THEFT rapidly blinks when key first turned to ignition On and continues to do so
THanks for the info.. For years I have been using the spare Key. The Main Ford Key was left at my parents house years ago.. But I should have it today... I got my hands on a reader and plan to scan the CPU today.
 






Confirmed it is not the Anti Theft... Also the code reader shows no error codes.


Suggestions on how to diagnose it being the Crank Position Sensor ?
 






I did a search for 98 CPS. Read what you can about this on this forum, theres alot of it and maybe it will answer how to diagnose a bad one. I have also read on here that you can tap on it with a screwdriver to get one that is on its way out to work. BUT, that was on a 5.0 and I believe the CPS is easier to get to on a 5.0. I think yours is at the back of the enigine,(but read above post.. I am wrong about that) about center of firewall, under intake. Not an easy sounding thing to "give a tap" to. As for diagnosis...That certainly isn't my expertise...I'll let someone else that knows more about that answer.
 






My 2000 did this and then I tapped on the crank position sensor and poof! fired right up and hasnt had any issues since. Im sure the neighbors found that humorous, since I was like 8 months pregnant at the time ;)
 






My 2000 did this and then I tapped on the crank position sensor and poof! fired right up and hasnt had any issues since. Im sure the neighbors found that humorous, since I was like 8 months pregnant at the time ;)

Wow!!! What a crazy story that's awesome...


Can I get a confirmation on the CPS location I was under the impression it was at the front of the engine.
 






It is located about 8 oclock to the crank pulley, attached to the block by 2 screws. The sensor includes the timing pointer, it is all one piece
 






If it was the Crank position Sensor wouldn't this not let the engine spark?

I can get my hands on a code reader probably later today. I will let you know.

I believe you are correct, if the Crank Sensor was bad you would not get spark and would have a error code, something like "P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction".

You said you tried starting fluid, what exactly did that do?
Where did you spray it in? You should give it a good shot before the MAF sensor while cranking it.

The reason I ask is, the Camshaft position sensor controls the injector pulse width, so if you can get it to fire with starting fluid the problem could be in the injection system. Although I think that should give you an error also.

One other far fetched possibility is bad gas, or water in it. It does happen.
Try the starting fluid again, give it good blast while cranking and let us know what happens.

Extra info.

Crankshaft & Camshaft Position Sensors

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor


Bob.
 






Do not spray the MAF sensor with starter fluid

. . .
You said you tried starting fluid, what exactly did that do?
Where did you spray it in? You should give it a good shot before the MAF sensor while cranking it.
. . .
Bob.

I suggest that you avoid spraying starter fluid before the MAF sensor. It might contaminate the sensor. Spray it into the intake tube after the MAF sensor and toward the throttle body or (better) disconnect the intake tube from the throttle body, open the throttle plate and spray into the intake manifold. The only thing I would spray on or near the MAF sensor is MAF sensor cleaner or electrical cleaner.
 






For the record... I am spraying directly intothe tube after I disconnected it from the Air filter box.

I had no luck spraying again....

I am having a hard time getting to the CPS So I was not able to give it a good whack.. When I have more time I will try that ...


So No error codes.... and Starter fluid is not working...


Further thoughts.. I need to get this thing on the road.
 



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did this just die on you? did you buy this truck in this condition? has anyone worked on it before you? how much pressure did you find in the fuel rail?
Is this the same truck you had problems with starting on the 10th of January?
Why did you stop posting a few days after that? Fixed?
What was the problem then if it was fixed?
Has this truck been sitting since?
Have you removed the intake for any reason?
 






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