1998 Explorer will not start.

[2000StreetRod]

Old thread

I went back and read your 10 Jan 09 thread. It sounds like nothing has changed since then except that your gas is almost a year old. If your vehicle has not run since then you probably need to drain your fuel tank, change your fuel filter and add fresh fuel and fuel injector cleaner to the tank. Then remove the Schrader valve from the test port, connect a drain hose to it and place the other end of the hose in a container. Turn the ignition On and Off until a pint of gasoline is in the container to get all of the old fuel out of the lines. You'll still have old fuel in the fuel rail and the injectors so you'll probably have to prime it with starter fluid to start. That will get you back to where you were in January.

You said that you had spark but I'm not convinced. I suggest that you buy an In-line Ignition Spark Checker (less than $10 from Harbor Freight Tools) and test the spark at each plug. If you have spark at each plug then replace all of the plugs. When you pull the plugs keep track of where each plug came from and look for abnormal wear such as fouling.

Then try and start the engine using starter fluid.

 

[Redneck0907]

Intake manifold gaskets? un-metered air entering cylinders causing too lean of a mixture? Any thoughts guys?

 

[Turdle]

Crank sensor?

Serious. get another one, plug it in and go. I hope.

 

[Turdle]

This thread ended with a trip to the dealer, where they replaced the CKP ( crankshaft position sensor) . Yes there was spark at the plug.


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216204&page=6

 

[2000StreetRod]

Now I'm confused

This thread ended with a trip to the dealer, where they replaced the CKP ( crankshaft position sensor) . Yes there was spark at the plug.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216204&page=6

OK, I'm really confused. This thread started by a post submitted by kaxfenix on 12-08-2009 which was very similar to a thread submitted by kaxfenix on 01-10-2009 with no resolution subsequently posted. The link you provided is a thread submitted by another poster. Did you include that because of similar symptoms?

 

[budwich]

do a compression test on at least one cylinder from each side.... you will likely have your answer.

 

[Turdle]

OK, I'm really confused. This thread started by a post submitted by kaxfenix on 12-08-2009 which was very similar to a thread submitted by kaxfenix on 01-10-2009 with no resolution subsequently posted. The link you provided is a thread submitted by another poster. Did you include that because of similar symptoms?

Yes

 

[kaxfenix]

The original Thread I started back in Jan 09 It started working the same day I posted the thread.. As I mentioned in the first post of this thread I made.

This thing in the past has had a mind of it's own where it will not start for a stretch ( few hours - a few days) and then vola, it starts and never have an issue for months to even years.

That was what happened.. I have been driving it with OUT issue since then.


I fear this time is different as like I said the Explorer Started and then Died. It has not started and Rance Since Saturday Dec 5th.

In the past why it hasn't started and then on its own start up after sitting for an hour - even as long as a Day.. I do not know, I always though it to be something with the anti- theft.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I agree with Turdle

After reading Aldive's thread and the symptoms he experienced with no DTCs set I agree with Turdle that the CKP sensor is a likely candidate. However, according to the Ford Maintenance Manual the TPS should be tested prior to testing the CKP.

The PCM relies on the TPS to determine closed throttle for idle and all other throttle positions for acceleration or deceleration. Testing the TPS is easy and costs nothing. With the electrical connector connected to the TPS backprobe the wiper contact (gray/white wire) and the return (gray/red wire). Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the wiper probe and the negative lead to the return. Switch the ignition On but do not start the engine. The voltage should be approximately 1.0 volts with the throttle closed. Slowly rotate the throttle plate to WOT while watching the voltage reading. It should increase smoothly (with no dropouts or jumps) to at least 4.0 volts at WOT.

 

[kaxfenix]

Well I replaced the Crank Position sensor, and this did not solve my problems I will test what you suggested above and get back to you.

 

[Explortation]

Same Scenario!

Im in the same boat! Three days ago I was driving my 1998 4.o SOHC all over town. It sat for about 2 hours (should I mention the extreme cold spell that just started the same night, temp dropped and was around 20 F when the car incident occurred), when I got in it fired up, I reversed, and then it died. Would not restart. Cranks and cranks. Engine rolls when starter cranks. Fuel squirts at Schraeder valve while cranking. I can audibly hear fuel pump working as well when I listen. Tested ignition coil for impedence, all checks good. Also checked for voltage to the ignition coil pack. Good. Had no problems before this, so Im pretty sure I didnt have 6 spark plugs quit at the same time.
**Is this something to note?: The check engine light used to come on solid, but since removing the battery to have it tested, the check engine light does not come on at all, not even with ignition set to "on" like it's supposed to.

 

[BobWiersema]

**Is this something to note?: The check engine light used to come on solid, but since removing the battery to have it tested, the check engine light does not come on at all, not even with ignition set to "on" like it's supposed to.

You should start your own thread regarding this problem, every issue is different and its easier to address one per thread. The check engine light could just be because the battery was out. It could take up to 250 miles for it to reset. As for not starting, go get yourself a Noid Light and check the injectors. If the problem is in the pats it will disable the injectors. Besides a Noid light is a handy and inexpensive tool to have.

$15 dollar noid light.

 

[Explortation]

...pats being the passive anti-theft system?

 

[budwich]

As suggested, you might want to start your own thread....HOWEVER, having said that, there are a lot of similar threads so perhaps search bit more to see if one of those have a solution for you. As for your last "red comment", your check engine light should stay on solid with just your key "on". IF that doesn't happen, assuming the light isn't burnt (posts on that too), your vehicle will likely never start as the PCM isn't "happy".

 

[ducrnd]

wont start ????

same problem... try the spare key.... my primary key was a little worn. and the computer said it may be a theft. and shut it down till it would reset in 1 hour.....try the spare key.

 

[Eagleisx]

Won't Start??

My 98 Ex has a 4.0l SOHC Engine and the Check Engine Light came on and stayed on until i replaced the EGR Unit,it is located on the Drivers side of the engine,it has two rubber tubes and an electric plug,when i replaced this it solved the Check Engine Light Problem,also,it cured the rough idle too.

 

[ReT]

make sure the big hoses to the vapor canister have not split or come off and the relief valve is not stuck open or there will be too much air in the fuel mixture. It is not bad gas.

 

[joemc2020]

Hi guys I just fixed my 1998 Ford explorer XLT and it was having issues with the anti theft causing the car to not crank. So if you have problems with the anti theft and your car not starting look at every fuse in both fuse pannels in the car and under the hood
Here is the link that I found that helped me find my fuse,

://www.google.com/search?q=1998++explorer+fuse+pannel+diagram&oq=1998+ford+explorer+fuse+pannel+diagram&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l3&client=ms-android-americamovil-us&sourceid=chrome-mobile&espv=1&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=OkIGF53sZZrFIM: