1999 2WD Explorer 4.0 SOHC- No spark | Ford Explorer Forums

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1999 2WD Explorer 4.0 SOHC- No spark

EricJRW

Member
Joined
September 28, 2012
Messages
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City, State
Fort Worth, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
First post here, so thank you for your time.

Drove it home the other night, ran fine. Went to start it this AM and does not fire... Not even a cough. Checked for spark and there does not seem to be any. Checked for ODB codes and found none.

So what do I check next? I found this threead: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236721

But is there a more logical first step, like power? Or is that what I'm doing with the primary check? I was thinking maybe the coil is on its own circuit and maybe there is a fuse?

Not near the vehicle now... But will be home later and hope to start troubleshooting.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Eric
 



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Well it rained all day yesterday and I was not able to spend any time under the hood, but in looking for more information on-line, I have the following to add:

With the key on, the "check engine light", "check gage" and "battery" lights come on.

When I crank the engine the the "check engine light" and "check gage" lights stay on, but the battery light flickers (nearly off). Just a few weeks ago I put in a brand new battery, so I don't think this is battery related (vehicle has been working fine for weeks).

I'm getting ready to try to trouble shoot the coil pack, but what's the next logical step? Some other info suggests CPS. Does that make sense for these symptoms?

Guess I won't really know until I figure out the coil.

Thanks
 






clean the CKP sensor

The ignition system receives power from Fuse 19 (25A) in the Central Junction Box. With the ignition switch in Run there should be battery voltage on the RD/LG wire going to the coil pack. If you are certain that there is no spark for any plugs then you may want to try disconnecting and reconnecting the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connector. That's an easy way to clean the contacts.
 






Thank you for the reply. Sadly, still no luck...

I checked all the fuses... As in pulled and visually inspected all.
When I was under the hood, I did not have an easy way to get my probe into the coil pack connector... I guess I should fabricate a jumper to get in there.
I tried testing the CKP and I not get the 1V AC reading like I was expecting. Thus I thought it was bad, and since less than $15, worth a shot at replacing... Still no luck.

On the bright side I found my cooling leak that I was hunting for. So know I have new heater hoses from the pump, but my SUV still does not run.

I was going to do the KOEO test for the EEC-IV, but for the life of me I cannot find the test box / connector where I would need to jumper. Any advice?

Thanks in advance,

Eric
 












There were no ODB codes (I borrowed the reader from AutoZone). I was quite disappointed at no codes. When my wife's car's CPS (CKP) went out, it did throw a code. Out of curiosity, is there a code for no signal from the CKP?

To test for spark I used a piece of wire inserted into the secondaries on the coil and looked for a spark when the other end of the wire was held close to ground (I don't have a proper spark tester). Do you think this adequate? It's always worked for me in the past (on other motors).

I also verified 12 volts (actually 11.9) at the coil pack (primary side). Battery is reading 12.2 volts.

I'm second guessing the test for the CKP. I read that I should read voltage (1V AC, but I tried both AC and DC, knowing full well AC makes more sense) while cranking, and I didn't see any voltage, hence I opted to replace it (relatively low cost). I did not think to try the test on the new CKP... But, if the the test was flawed, then I'm thinking about that connector on the CKP, which was pretty close to right below where my heater hose was leaking. I wish that damn CKP harness did not snake over the top of the motor and off to who knows where. I like to be able to test it end to end.

Well I'm off to follow the link you just provided.

Thanks again!

PS. Checked out the link... Do you have a procedure to check the CKP? That's the step that makes the most sense to me, as the CEL does stay on during cranking.
 






Just thought I would update (yeah, it's been awhile). Never did self-solve this. Had it towed to a local garage (I've used them twice now) and it was determined that it was my computer. Perhaps that's why no codes? Anyway, it's fixed and running great.
 






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