1999 5.0 Exhaust manifold on passenger side

[99MMountaineer]

Hi,
I am about to replace the exhaust manifold on a 1999 5.0 Mountaineer AWD, I believe its the same for the explorer. Am I wrong?

I see someone else mentioned an exhaust leak recently, I did not want to highjack that thread so I started my own and I am including links so someone coming after me can see the parts.

The passenger side if apparently leaking from the gasket. From rockauto, passenger is the right side, right?

More Information for DORMAN 674329

I read the forums, and I see people have trouble with the collector bolts. Um... which ones are the collector bolts? Is that the ones connecting to the pipes?

The manifold gasket, I read the gasket that comes with the Dorman manifold is not great, and we should get the Remflex 3028?

https://www.amazon.com/Remflex-3028-Exhaust-Gasket-Engine/dp/B00B2HMD5A/?tag=seriouexplor-20

Aside from the gasket, do you need anything else? liquid sealer or something?

Is there a gasket or something between the manifold and the pipes?

And should I get all new bolts or reuse the ones that come with it? Is there a package sold of the bolts?

Should I go ahead and replace the EGR Line too?

More Information for DORMAN 598111

Anything else I need to do that? another gasket or anything?


Someone mentioned the old EGR accordion style line, where can you get that?

Any tips?

Warnings?

Videos?

Thanks in advance!

 

[C420sailor]

I’m the guy from the other thread. Just ordered parts. I ordered the Dorman manifold, Remflex 3028 gaskets, a new EGR line (mine is leaking), and new manifold-to-block studs and nuts.

The collector bolts are what hold the pipes to the manifold. You can just cut them if they’re rusted badly.

You may have to cut your EGR line if it’s really stuck in the manifold. Maybe you’ll have some luck.

The accordion style is the OEM line. The aftermarkets seem to be solid pipe?

 

[99MMountaineer]

Hi C420sailor, Thanks for the info!

I’m the guy from the other thread. Just ordered parts. I ordered the Dorman manifold, Remflex 3028 gaskets, a new EGR line (mine is leaking), and new manifold-to-block studs and nuts.

The collector bolts are what hold the pipes to the manifold. You can just cut them if they’re rusted badly.

You may have to cut your EGR line if it’s really stuck in the manifold. Maybe you’ll have some luck.

The accordion style is the OEM line. The aftermarkets seem to be solid pipe?

Mind a couple of questions?

The EGR line, is that the same as this:

More Information for DORMAN 598111

What manifold to block studs and nuts did you buy? Have a link?

I have not worked on a car in over 30 years so... a little rusty.

To cut off the collector bolts, what do you use?

Here are a couple of videos that might help you:





When are you planning to do yours? Let me know how it goes!

Thanks again,
Neal

 

[C420sailor]

I’ll probably do it in a month or so. I’m away from my garage at the moment.

I ordered the Dorman studs from Rockauto. They also had fel-pro I believe. They were more $$$. I went with the cheaper ones, as I think the Dorman ones will be good enough for my purposes with the superior gaskets. My studs are original and look horrible.

I haven’t done the job on the 5.0, but I’ve done this job on a SOHC. It’s all a question of access. For cutting exhaust bolts I’ve used a sawzall/hackzall with a metal blade, I’ve used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, an electric angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, an oxyacetylene torch, air hammer, oscillating saw, etc. Sometimes you can even just hammer an impact socket on the rusted nut, and blasting it off with a strong impact will just shear the bolt. You have lots of options. If the bolts are in really bad shape, it won’t take much. At the end of the day, the best method is going to be a question of what you have in your toolbox and what you’re seeing—mechanic’s instinct.

Unless you’re @410Fortune . Dude has built and fixed so many 5.0 Explorers, he probably knows the single best way to neutralize those bolts.

 

[V8]

I just replaced my right exhaust manifold gasket but not the manifold (yet). I used a FelPro gasket along with all new hardware, my manifold seems to have a bit of warp and I may go back in and replace it. I live in an area where rust is a big issue because of the brine the local government uses during the winter on ice and snow. If you have similar conditions I suggest you use a very good penetrating oil on the original mounting bolts. I actually sprayed my bolts every night for a week beforehand and was able to successfully remove all bolts without breaking any off in the head. That would have been a total bummer since removing broken bolts can be very difficult. I got 'em all out cleanly, and was very happy about that.

The EGR tube is removed with a 1-1/16 combination wrench, a crowsfoot wrench may work as well. Again, penetrating oil is your friend. There are some excellent Youtube videos on this. Be sure to replace the hoses going to the DPFE, you'll probably need to cut them off the old EGR tube anyway. Also remove and check out your DPFE while you're in the neighborhood. I took my original hardware to the auto parts store and bought grade 8 replacements for everything except one stud which was an unusual size. The factory Ford parts manual for my truck didn't show the correct hardware anyway. They were wayyy off.

 

[410Fortune]

Popcorn emoji

 

[410Fortune]

Oh joy you guys are in for a real swell time

Replacing the manifolds on the 5.0 can be a pita unless you are prepped for it

First question, do you have access to a torch?
Getting the downpipe to manifold bolts out is a ton of fun. With a torch they will back right out, get the manifold cherry red.. map gas can work but not nearly as well as a real oxy torch

Jack it up support properly with jack stands get pass tire off give yourself enough height to work underneath. Get lots of light
I use 3/8” drive and like a 18” extension, wobbly extension and good 6 point socket, access to the inner bolt (engine side) is from way back behind the converter (why the 18” extension) with the ratchet in the correct spot you almost have a straight shot at the bolt head. If you don’t have a near perfect angle then you are not in the correct spot with your ratchet and wobbly extension

If they don’t back out you get to cut them
Cutting the outer is no problem, it’s easy to access with a small die grinder or torch

The inner bolt dang near impossible to get at with anything other than a torch. Maybe sawzall? Not sure.. I usually just use heat right away or put so much force on it I snap the bolt… either way win win. A stuck
Bolt can be removed from manifold later or if you are replacing manifold who cares

Using kroil or pb blaster is only
Mildly effective on these exhaust bolts.. the blue wrench is really the only tool that works every time (cherry red manifold will break the rust corrossion) brute force will snap the bolt if you can get enough of a bite. At the end of the day one way or another I will get that manifold off the down pipe

The rest is easy.. the exhaust manifold to engine bolts usually back right out
Only two of them are double sides studs I believe on the passenger side? Not really needed

I have a 1-1/16” wrench I cut in half, this and a short cheater pipe is how I free the egr tube

The aftermarket egr tubes are way better, no accordion section needed… that was the weak spot anyways, even a new wgr
Line from ford (if still avail?) was updated without the accordion section
Loose fit the egr tube on both sides when everything is back in place and then tighten it to the valve and then the manifold

Getting behind the intake with your hands it possible on passenger side to work on the egr stuff, but if it’s really tight or you are not able to get in there you can remove the two trans hold down nuts and with a floor jack push up on the transmission till it hits the floor, gives you more room to work. In extreme cases you can remove the intake elbow and then have lots of room to work

The 5.0 hardware on engine side is all standard and can be had at most hardware stores… anything on the exhaust or not bolted to the engine is metric, so choose your sockets carefully.. even though a 13mm might fit it’s not always correct as those suckers have a 1/2” head

Passenger side is the easy side
Dorman manifolds are decent for the $$$ a little bit of time with a dremmel can really clean them up

I would only want to use remflex gaskets in here.. but I’m real picky because parts are cheap when it costs this much labor

 

[C420sailor]

I’ve got a bolt induction heater im gonna try on my job. Just picked it up

 

[410Fortune]

I have one of those too! be careful with the tips, it cannot touch the metal, just encircle it
I have bolt buster 120V I love that thing! Hard to use on bolts that are hidden deep like these however
If you make it work for you please post up the how to
I've only had good luck with it on fasteners that are exposed (like loose from the truck)

 

[V8]

My downpipe flange bolts are so badly rusted on both sides that they'll break at the first sign of stress. They are literally a third smaller in diameter than new bolts will be. I've l already have had my left side manifold off to replace a rusted through dipstick tube a few years ago and that's the easy side. The right side has a reputation for being a total pain to change but I've read accounts of guys removing them to change to headers without pulling the engine as the flat rate manuals insist be done. The left side doesn't bother me, but in either case, if I go to that much effort I will replace the manifolds as well. I hate trying to remove broken rusty bolts from replaceable components. I think I can get the right manifold off without having to pull the engine.

 

[410Fortune]

I’ve never had to pull the engine to do headers or manifolds

If those two bolts snap then lucky you, it makes life Much easier… can deal with the broken Studs on the bench or just use a Dorman replacement

I’ve done many many many manifold changes and header changes on these 5.0’trucks… although the passenger side has a crappy inner Bolt from the manifold to down pipe, it is still the easy side…
No dipstick no steering shaft and no plumbing in the way
If the egr pipe gives you fits I cut it
If the bolts snap then no need for torch.. can have that sucker out in 30 minutes