1999 Ford explorer, can't get it to fire, only crank

[Gogetthepizza]

So somebody took a screw driver to my ignition cylinder, too steal it i would assume. Anyways i got a new cylinder and set of keys. At this point i learned of the pats system. So i got a copy of the chip code put into a new chipped key that was cut to the new ignition cylinder. And it still will not start. It just cracks. I can't smell gas. Idk if it's stuck on anti-theft mode or what. I don't have a driver side door lock so can't reset stuff that way. Im at my wits end. Idk what to do. Please help

 

[donalds]

Is the theft light flashing rapidly ?
Can you read the PATS codes?

Can you take some pictures of the damage repair ?
Any info is great

 

[Gogetthepizza]

Is the theft light flashing rapidly ?
Can you read the PATS codes?

Can you take some pictures of the damage repair ?
Any info is great

So yes the light is flashing rapidly. I personally changed the cylinder out. I didn't know about the pats system, nor the chipped keys or the transceiver that goes around the ignition. They screw driver ruined the lock and i had to drimmel it out cause i couldn't get it to turn so i could hit the release button. I got an ignition cylinder from O'Reilly's, they said it was for a 99 explorer xlt. I put it in and tried to start it, it would just turn over but not fire. That's when i learned about the pats system and what not. And i was skeptical about the chip in the key so i drimmeled it out. Cause the old key no longer worked anyways. Well from there i went to Walmart and have them ready the codes off of the chip i had drimmeled out, and put them on a new transponder key i had them cut to the design of the new keys that came with the new ignition cylinder. Im frustrated cause i was sold the ignition being told it was for my vehicle and sure it fits and turns the car over, but it's not for it cause it's not transponder stuff. Anyways ya i can take pictures of whatever. Be as far as the codes go. Walmart tools me their machine read it and copied it. So im not positive but as far as i know, yes you can read them..

 

[fast_dave]

@Gogetthepizza

Just spitballin' - but it just takes a minute AND free to try

Sometimes, for reasons no one knows, there are occasions where your 2nd Gen Ex hasn't rolled over,
but something causes the Inertial Fuel Cut Off Switch (AKA Roll Over Switch) to activate and cut off the fuel supply.

I've read this so many times over the past 16 years on non-rolled over Ex's that I've lost count - seriously.

The switch is located inside the cabin, passenger side, at the top of the carpet line, right hand side.

Here's what it looks like - press the button down to reset.

Hope that helps - close the loop

 

[J_C]

Okay this has already gone the wrong direction...

First, you get a new cylinder, no new set of keys, and rekey the new cylinder to the old keys, so same key works everything and you're not in this situation. If you can't do cylinder pins then have a locksmith do it but some ford kits come with all the different pin lengths you might need to DIY rekey the cylinder.

Second, if the light is flashing rapidly, try holding the old chip up next to the cylinder, with aluminum foil around the new key head so it can only sense the old key chip.

Third, there was no need to dremel the chip out of the key. First, you just pry the plug out which is non-destructive but second, the chip can be read fine in the key just as the vehicle does it. This is what anyone making a clone key the normal way does, reads the chip still in the key they want to clone.

Forth, if Walmart thinks they put the code on a new key, it's probably that they used a clone key which has to use a battery to retain memory for the programmed code? I would not want that hassle of a battery and bulk just to do that, when you already had a perfectly viable key chip that could have just been put in the new key, since you chose not to do the "First" thing above. A key blank that you could pop the old chip into is about $6 on ebay.

Fifth, I'd take the key back to walmart and demand a refund. Or wait, your call, but really I'd do that and try to reverse all that's been done so far and proceed with the things I listed above.

If the theft light is blinking rapidly there is no point in checking anything else, it's definitely the PATS disabling the ignition. There may be some PATs reset procedure, and if you do that and the new key won't work, try as suggested above to block the new key with foil and hold the old key chip next to the receiver after trying the PATs reset procedure again.

If you can't find a reset procedure (I don't recall what it is if there is one) then I'd try either programming in the new key, or the old key chip with new key head covered in foil, using Forscan for windows with the extended license to allow it, or have a locksmith do that. Well first, if you hadn't yet, I'd try disconnecting the battery for a minute to see if that helps, I mean vehicle battery not clone key battery.

I hope this post doesn't seem harsh, it would be easy for someone unfamiliar with PATS to do what has been done so far but there is a better way...

 

[Gogetthepizza]

@Gogetthepizza

Just spitballin' - but it just takes a minute AND free to try

Sometimes, for reasons no one knows, there are occasions where your 2nd Gen Ex hasn't rolled over,
but something causes the Inertial Fuel Cut Off Switch (AKA Roll Over Switch) to activate and cut off the fuel supply.

I've read this so many times over the past 16 years on non-rolled over Ex's that I've lost count - seriously.

The switch is located inside the cabin, passenger side, at the top of the carpet line, right hand side.

Here's what it looks like - press the button down to reset.

Hope that helps - close the loop

View attachment 342950

I really really appreciate this but yeah i read that too and tried today and no luck

 

[DemonMudder]

I had a similar issue on mine, the theft light would flash rapidly, wouldn't start. I ended up buying a new ignition cylinder and keys, had a guy come out and program both to match the truck, and there ya go, cranked up. Had to wipe the old ones for it to match up properly

 

[Mbrooks420]

You’ll need the key programmed with FORScan or a locksmith. Those cloned keys are crap, and don’t have anything you could even Dremel out, they’re not actually an RFID transponder.

Like mentioned above PATS is the only thing you really need to look into at this point.

 

[J_C]

Those cloned keys are crap, and don’t have anything you could even Dremel out, they’re not actually an RFID transponder.

IF Gogetthepizza wants to keep using the clone key with the matching cylinder, there might be room in it to stuff the original chip in, after its circuit board and battery are removed, unless it's all molded together with the only opening being a battery slot. Not sure if orientation of the chip vial matters or any direction relative to the pats coil around the cylinder will work.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Orientation doesn’t matter. I wouldn’t even consider it when a transponder key is under $10. Just cut it and swap the glass pellet and plastic holder.

 

[410Fortune]

I would remove the steering column covers and have a look at the pats halo, the plastic ring that goes around the ignition lock cylinder... if the plastic ring is damaged you will never get the pats system to work because it cannot read the code in the chip key
This is called the pats HALO
you can use one from another Ford......they are interchangeable. At the very least INSPECT IT
If they put a screw driver to your old lock cylinder chances are they damaged the halo