1st Gen 4.0L camm

[SteveVB]

Found an old E-mail from Sven

I found an old e-mail (8/23/00) from Sven about the pushrods and length. I had .010 taken off my heads when the machine shop worked on them, thats why my dimension is different in the order call out compared to the recommendation.
--------------
Steve,

Mean length over the full sphere on a stock Ford pushrod is 5.480", which on a stock engine, should give about .045-.055" preload. If you have one of our performance cams, the pushrod length must be increased to 5.550-5,555" to keep the geometery and preload correct provided no other block or head machining has been done. In your case the proper length would be 5.540-5.545" to accomodate the head machining.

If you need pushrods quickly you could have them made by Smith Bros Pushrods (800) 367-1533 to the following dimensions:

Quanity 12
Length (over full sphere) =5.545"
Tubing=5/16 Chrome Moly
Pushrod tips= 5/32 R ball ends(non drilled)

Hope this Helps

Regards

Sven Pruett
Vanir Technologies

 

[rocklaurence]

Steve, I'm having the final work done on the heads and I'll be assembling the motor shortly. CompCams recommends .02-.04" on the preload. I dont know how much the shop had to take off to "True" the heads but if its less than .02" I may be able to use the old rods. I almost #$%^ when I saw how much a complete set of gaskets and seals for the motor costs (Ford $425). What ever happened to the $80 kits of yesteryear????
I hope to have a couple months of service out of the new motor before heading up to Tellico this June for a ride.

 

[SteveVB]

Originally posted by rocklaurence
. CompCams recommends .02-.04" on the preload. I dont know how much the shop had to take off to "True" the heads but if its less than .02" I may be able to use the old rods. I almost #$%^ when I saw how much a complete set of gaskets and seals for the motor costs (Ford $425).

Careful with the info you get from comp cams- if its from their instruction sheet it is generic info, where as I treat the info Sven gave me as specific to the 4.0. I would use his numbers.040-.050. I would mock up and check after you have the heads on for sure.

Did you check with Torrie at FPN. I dont remember paying that much for the gaskets and seals. I think I paid 40 for the intake, 40 for the valve cvrs, 80 for head pan and misc. But Ill have to look and see if I can find the info, the machinist supplied some gaskets. I also bought a bunch of individual gaskets for the TB,MAF,intakes etc.

 

[rocklaurence]

I'll check around again and maybe get with Doug again on the Preload. In reference to the gaskets, I'm doing the whole motor and priced them through NAPA also and it was about the same. The heads should be done in a week.
Thanks again

 

[rocklaurence]

Noisey Headers!

Motor is in and running well. Thanks to all that provided information on the rebuild. The motor is strong and pulls great above 4000 RPM a big difference compared to the old motor. However, the motor is noisey! It sounds like a bunch of BB's in a can. Its not a lifter because the noise gets louder towards the "Y" pipe where its amplified! Has the rest of you noticed a significant increase in exhaust noise when you installed headers?:redexp:

 

[SteveVB]

Re: Noisey Headers!

Originally posted by rocklaurence
However, the motor is noisey! It sounds like a bunch of BB's in a can. Its not a lifter because the noise gets louder towards the "Y" pipe where its amplified! Has the rest of you noticed a significant increase in exhaust noise when you installed headers?:redexp:

Headers are always noiser than stock cast iron manifolds. I wrapped mine with header tape and it took some of the "tinny sound" away. All the vehicles Ive ever owned with headers have more engine compartment noise. Make sure you check and recheck the header and collector bolts regularly for the first few hundred miles. My slip joint seems to loosen up either in the fall or spring after changes in ambient goes either up or down. The Stage8 bolts that came with the borla headers do a great job on the flange bolts though.

What did you endup doing with the push rod length- new rods or did you shim the stands?

Good Luck

 

[rocklaurence]

Steve, the rods were too short. I was only getting approx. .01-.014 preload on the OEM rods. I also talked to Comp cams and they recommended 5.525" rods (SmithBro) which gave me the .035-.04 preload I needed. In reference to the noise, its an exhaust leak I'm sure but I haven't been able to nail it down yet. I've tried the touchy-feely test (hot-hot!) for puffs of exhaust and haven't been sucessfull. Any ideas?:redexp: