2 3/8" socket

[murrajm5]

Any insight to where I can pick up a socket that fits the spindle nut on the front axle? I have noticed some movement of the spindle and want to try tightening the nut down to see if it can be corrected. The outer bearing came off with the nut when I took the nut off only using my fingers but didn't want to try tightening the nut with only a pair of channel lock pliers. Is the spindle held in place (tightly) by the inner bearing? Thanks in advance.

 

[sink]

I can't help with the details inside, but-
If you find you really want the socket it PAYS to shop around. I bought the "special" spindle nut tool for my (non-ford) toy. It was like $18 at Car quest, $9 at Advance Auto. Also, I needed a 1 1/2 for another of my Explorer's (non-ford) brothers and found it was only about $5 at Advance Auto. Yes- believe it or not some of these auto parts chains have a variety of hardware. I feel that cheapness doesn't matter much, the tool will be used very infrequently.

 

[murrajm5]

I have checked at advance and autozone and they say the biggest they have is 36mm. They do seem to have the spidle nut tool for the manual hub models but not auto hubs. I will check Napa but that is about the only parts places around here.

 

[sink]

Someone deleted my last reply. I wasn't suggesting crime or anything. I'll summarize -
I needed about 2 ft of extension for my wratchet once. I found the tool at Sears. Nice tool and priced like it too. I was real careful how I opened it. I used it to get the job done. Then, of all things, I realized that I made a mistake and wasn't really able to keep that tool. Those nice guys took it back and returned my money. Just saying how nice those guys were, they were kind of quiet too, no questions - ya know.

 

[murrajm5]

Actually, Autozone suggested that when I asked about renting theirs. They said that they do not rent that particular tool but they accept purchasing, using, and then returning for refund for that particular tool.

 

[CHH777]

Oh come on...

Just buy the damn thing. Trust me, you WILL use it again.

Try tracking down your local Snap-On or Mac Tools truck. I got mine from Snap-On for $10 and change. My local auto parts stores wanted $18-$30.



murrajm5,

Please don't take this the wrong way but from one of your other posts it sounds like you may be a little confused about the front supspension components. If not, I appologize. But if so I'd be glad to help clarify if you have any questions.

BTW, what year is your Explorer?

 

[Maniak]

Don't forget to try a Used Tool supply store. Thats where I found mine.. I also found that the Tool stores in town that primarily sell to Shops have it also.. it just costs more..

 

[murrajm5]

The ball joints have just been replaced about 8 or 9 months ago. The spindle seems to move up and down or vertically. I never set out to find the socket, use it, then return it but I can't even find one. I don't know of a snap-on tool store around here in Bridgeport, WV. I might try an old friend who has a repair shop and see if he will let me borrow his for an hour or so. My Explorer is a '94 by the way. If I am confused, I apologize, but the most I had off while briefly checking the other day was the spindle nut which the bearing came off along with it when I removed the nut with my fingers. This led me to believe that it wasn't tightened down enough.

 

[CHH777]

If the spindle has vertical movement there's a problem. Are you sure you don't mean your rotor? That would make alot more sense (especially since you have new ball joints).

If it's the rotor moving you're probably right about the spindle nut being too loose...

 

[murrajm5]

I'm pretty sure it is the spindle as it is the shaft with the splines on the end that the retaining washer is grooved to match and slide over and the snap ring snaps into. What is my problem? Is it not the spindle that has a splined end? As I grab it with two fingers, it moves around in relation to the rotor. So, back to my original question, what holds that in place?

 

[sink]

Murrajm5- The thing you are talking about is the axleshaft. CHH777 is trying to tell you that your terminology is off a little. The spindle is the solid hollow thing thruough which your axleshaft (the splined thing) protrudes. The spindle is bolted fast to the whole wheel knucle. The spindle does not turn. Your taperd roller wheel bearings ride on the outside of the spindle.
Your axleshaft (splined thing with the washer and snap rings you spoke of) is supposed to be free to move around at its end. It has one bearing way in the back of the SPINDLE. If you move its end-like you said- you can see your U-joint responding or vice-versa. It is held in the center of the SPINDLE by that single bearing in the back and by the guts of the hub in the front. It is normal for the end of the axleshaft to be able to wiggle when the hub is off. You wouldn't remove the spindle unless you were doing axles seals, but if you removed your hub guts and rotor, then unbolted the actual spindle, you could slip it off overtop the axleshaft. Then the axleshaft would flop down and hang there by the U-joint. I'm doing my front bearings today- I'll confirm.
BACK FROM MY GARAGE:
Murrajm5- I reread your original concern. Don't worry about it, based on what I said here. That's the way those parts are supposed to be. Just get that nut retightened. It holds your wheel bearings and that is it. By the way- I learned that if you take a marker and put marks on the flange of that big nut where the key slots are, it is real easy to get that key back in, because you know where to set the nut. Also, I used an old lightweight tool vice that I had to turn that nut. I tightened it on opposite flats of the nut. It was small enough to fit among the wheel studs. Then I used a bar to turn the whole vice, and nut as well. Worked fantastic. I'll post another item about this tool. This is long already.

[Edited by sink on 01-29-2001 at 04:25 AM]

 

[murrajm5]

Sorry for the confusion by my Haynes manual showed an exploded view of the front hub assembly and it pointed to what I thought was the spindle that the bearing slip over. It actually has an arrow pointing to it and says spindle. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[sink]

I had a Haynes manual once get me almost all the way through to the timing belt of a 2.0 liter transverse in a ricerocket. Then to pull the crank pully bolt (about three trillion foot pounds) it said "hold the engine flywheel from turning with a screwdriver. Trouble was- the flywheel was sittin' nicely in the closed housing between engine and trans. They even put a picture in showing the flywheel like it was out in the open. Fortunately, mine was a manual trans and I put it in first and blocked the brake on. I guess alot of automatic trans folks tore up alot of Haynes manuals.

 

[914x4sport]

Originally posted by sink
I guess alot of automatic trans folks tore up alot of Haynes manuals.

Haha!!!! Right on sink...

 

[murrajm5]

Would it be safe to say that when I tighten the spindle nut down on the passenger side and it causes the steering wheel to vibrate, that the bearings are bad? When I loosen the nut to where it was before, then the vibration goes away but I then hear a grinding noise from the bearings. I never took the rotor off to look at the inner bearing but the outer looked fine. I figured if I went to the trouble of taking the rotor off, I should just go ahead and change the bearings.

 

[sink]

Because of the uncertainty here and known bearing failures on these, I highly recommend you take out both bearings, wash them and inspect them. Then, new or old, repack. Taking your rotor off is no trouble. Just tap the springclips out the back of the brake caliper and hang it off a coat hanger wire from the coil spring. With outer bearing removed, pull the rotor right off. You were already 80% there. Look for discoloration of the races or rollers indicating heat. I changed my inside pass side brg two years ago. I thought my rotor was warped because the rig pulsed when braking. Inner bearing was blued and bad. It only cost less than $10 at Autozone. It was a namebrand bearing too (like Fafnir or NTN). New seal was about a buck. Be sure to get a new seal. Be sure to have good brg grease. If you have no other ride, buy the parts first and leave them in the box. You'll probably need it, but could take it back unused. Getting to the bearing = 10 minutes. In the end, reset the wheel nut by going a little tight, back loose, then just at snug.