2000 Explorer doesn't start

[trplad]

I put a new motor in the chevy and a new tranny in the pathfinder so this is nothing new.

 

[2000StreetRod]

blurry photos

Your camera is like mine - if you get it too close the photo is blurry. I could tell from the photos that the hydraulic tensioner is extended and in contact with the guide assembly. I could not tell if part of the guide assembly is missing. I suspect when the front timing cover is removed you'll find part of the guide assembly broken off.

Usually, for the chain to slip a part of the guide assembly gets jammed between the chain and the casting. How many camshaft degrees off is the timing?

Unfortunately, there is no Ford 4.0L SOHC V6 that is not subject to eventual timing chain rattle. I think the plastic wear surfaces should have been bonded to the metal pieces instead of being held in place by plastic clips. Perhaps this was not feasible due to different coefficients of thermal expansion but I suspect Ford just decided to cut the manufacturing cost. My attempt to increase the life of my new timing chain components was to add a pre-oiler.

 

[2000StreetRod]

position crank before removing cover

Your engine internals look fairly clean. My engine was full of sludge. I suspect the previous owner (lived in Texas) drove the vehicle for several years with no thermostat in an ignorant attempt to reduce overheating. I replaced my single row radiator with a double row radiator.

How many miles on your odometer?

I strongly suggest that you position the crankshaft at TDC with #1 cylinder on the compression stroke before removing the front timing cover.

 

[trplad]

not sure how many degrees but timing was off by more than a little bit...139,317 miles.

 

[2000StreetRod]

about average

not sure how many degrees but timing was off by more than a little bit...139,317 miles.

Some timing chain component typically fails between 100,000 and 200,000 miles. Mine went at about 150,000 miles. One forum member had a failure at only 40,000 miles. Some have gone as many as 300,000 miles.

The number of camshaft degrees the timing is off would give some insight into potential valve damage. Remember that each camshaft degree represents two crankshaft degrees.

 

[trplad]

my guess would be about 20 degrees but not positive, will do a miscroscope check on the valves to check them, best case scenario i have to put a new left cassette on and retime it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Primary tensioner

Don't forget to check the primary tensioner when you get the cover off.

Mine looked like it was still good but when I removed it I found there was no tension being applied to the chain.

 

[trplad]

what "cheap" maintenence do you suggest before i reassemble the engine? i got a new PCV Valve and QD electronic cleaner today, the drive belt and thermostat i could get for $35-40 after i make sure the valves are good, which should be tonight waiting on a buddy to bring the microscope over....

and also do i have to take both valve covers off to time it or can i time each cam "seperately"?

 

[2000StreetRod]

microscope valve check?

what "cheap" maintenence do you suggest before i reassemble the engine? i got a new PCV Valve and QD electronic cleaner today, the drive belt and thermostat i could get for $35-40 after i make sure the valves are good, which should be tonight waiting on a buddy to bring the microscope over....

Please describe how to use a microscope to check for bad valves. I've heard of using compressed air but never a microscope.

and also do i have to take both valve covers off to time it or can i time each cam "seperately"?

To time the camshafts you rotate the crankshaft to TDC with cylinder #1 on the compression stroke. The camshaft sensor "nub" on the left camshaft should be above the axis of the camshaft. You don't move the crankshaft until after both camshafts have been timed. See SOHC V6 Camshaft Timing

 

[trplad]

my buddy has it and knows how, i never delved this far into an engine before this is a learning experience for me. its not really a "microscope" as i call it haha, more like a long skinny wire camera w/ a light on the end and receiver to see what your looking at. (whatever those things are called?? guess he sticks it in there somehow and sees them.

 

[2000StreetRod]

optical probe

An optical probe is very handy to check for dented piston tops or damaged valves. I want to purchase one but can't really justify the cost. However, I doubt it will be able to detect if a valve is not seating correctly in its seat. In your first post you mentioned the compression was 50 psi on the driver's side bank. Was that for all cylinders? If so, then the valves are probably seating OK. The timing is just off so much that the compression is low. I suspect that the only way to really determine if the valves are seating is to pressurize each cylinder with an air compressor and listen for leaks around the valves.

 

[trplad]

yea that is a $500 tool he has there... and they were 50 psi on the each cylinder on bank 1 (drivers side) and 150 psi on each cylinder in bank 2...

i will have to time both cams if i read correctly because i have to take off the jackshaft sprocket to replace the left cassette.(good to know)

Im pretty much doing some other little work til the scope gets here? i took off the driver side door panel out of boredom because my lock doesnt move up or down, im gonna change that PCV Valve got a purolator one at advance for $3, cleaned the electrical connections with that spray i got.

how would i go about putting pressure in the cylinder? i do have an air compressor on hand.

would that be able to tell if the valves were damaged as well or just seated correctly?

 

[2000StreetRod]

spark plug hole adapter

. . . how would i go about putting pressure in the cylinder? i do have an air compressor on hand. Would that be able to tell if the valves were damaged as well or just seated correctly?

You need an air hose to spark plug hole adapter. You also must determine the locations of the crankshaft for cylinders #4, #5 & #6 with both valves fully closed. Then position crankshaft so both valves in cylinder #4 are fully closed and find a way to keep the crankshaft from turning. Then try to pressurize cylinder #4 with the air compressor. The piston will be away from TDC by the amount of the timing chain slip. If the camshaft is 20 degrees off then the crankshaft will be 40 degrees off. It will try to move if the cylinder pressurizes. Make sure it can't. Listen for leaks around the valves. If you don't hear any leaks try to achieve 150 psi. Then do the same for #5 and #6.

 

[trplad]

these are the plugs that came out of it...normal wear for being original i suppose.....

 

[trplad]

what is this lonely blue connector inside my driver side door for?

 

[trplad]

looks like i will be putting a motor in...scope/probe revealed black substance on top of heads and an interference mark on the cylinder closest to driver.... overheating or no oil maintenence couldve caused the sludge, cylinder walls werent in the best shape either.

 

[windsors03cobra]

139k on those plugs and man that sludge bomb motor is nasty. Go for the late model engine 2005 or so. It all comes down to $$$.

 

[2000StreetRod]

sludge motor

139k on those plugs and man that sludge bomb motor is nasty. . .

Unfortunately, the photo of the sludge motor with the front cover off is my engine. That's what I found when I tore it down to fix my timing chain rattle after owning the vehicle for about 3,000 miles.

 

[2000StreetRod]

SOHC V6 Engine Removal Procedure

looks like i will be putting a motor in...scope/probe revealed black substance on top of heads and an interference mark on the cylinder closest to driver.... overheating or no oil maintenence couldve caused the sludge, cylinder walls werent in the best shape either.

Too bad. SOHC V6 Engine Removal Procedure

 

[trplad]

I could always strip it down and have a nice 2000 ford explorer yard sale to start out the spring!