ExploringOnTheEdge
New Member
- Joined
- August 12, 2023
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
- 2
- City, State
- Redding, CA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2000 Explorer Limited 5.0
Hi, I am at a loss to figure out this issue. My 2000 Limited edition Explorer blows cold only at idle, but as soon as I start accelerating, the air gets hotter the faster I go/the higher the engine speed. When it comes down to idle again, it doesn't immediately get cold; there's a long adjustment period. Let me give some background.
Early this summer, I took the vehicle in to a local mechanic for an A/C system inspection because the vehicle was having the issue I've described above. The shop found that there were metal fragments in the refrigerant loop that apparently came off the squash plate (due to detonation in the line, as the mechanic put it). These fragments were in the entire refrigerant loop, necessitating replacing everything under the hood for the A/C. After some deliberation, I made the decision to pay for the job although it was more than I paid for the vehicle 5 years ago (and 60,000 miles ago).
Everything was fine for a month or so. A/C blew cold at idle and speeding down the road. But a little while ago, the same problem appeared. I knew the A/C job had a 12 month warranty on it, so I took it back in and they found a leaking schrader valve and replaced that. When I picked up the vehicle from the shop and drove it home, I was very annoyed to find that the same problem was happening. A/C blowing cold at idle but getting progressively warmer as I accelerated.
So, I took it in again. They did a thorough job trying to track the issue down, or so they told me.. The determined in the end that the climate control module was bad and possibly the blend door actuator (as it had been exhibiting some slipping--plastic gears not as good as they used to be). Replacing the climate control module and blend door actuator will be another $1000, which I really don't want to throw at this vehicle without some strong assurance it will last for a while. They manually moved the blend door to a position to take all A/C (at least that's what they said they did), and then they removed the blend door actuator. The shop owner told me that at least it will work for the rest of summer, and I can decide what to do after that.
I was okay with this, except that when I drove it home from the shop, I noticed (AGAIN!) that it was exhibiting the same issue. Blowing cold at idle but as soon as I start driving down the street, it's getting warm and even hot. The auto shop thought they had fixed the issue, but if they simply driven it around the block, they would have discovered it wasn't fixed (both times!).
So, I started scouring the web (including this forum). I started to think it may be a vacuum issue. Apparently, the door for drawing air from the cab as well as the other vent doors and the heater control valve all operate on vacuum. I learned that as the engine accelerates, the vacuum manifold on the engine loses its vacuum. But that is why the A/C has a separate vacuum reservoir with a check valve inside of it. I found this spherical vacuum reservoir and verified that connecting the vacuum lines in one direction "worked" and in the other "didn't." When I disconnected it (to simulate losing vacuum at higher engine speeds), the air gets hot and just blows out of the defrost vents, which confirmed what I was reading online. Unfortunately, it didn't help me solve the issue I'm experiencing and I'm beginning to think it's not a vacuum issue. The air continues to blow out the panel vents when accelerating, but it's hot. I've confirmed that the heater control valve stays closed while accelerating as well.
Sorry for the book. I wanted to get all the context in one place. I'm really stumped on this one, so any help would be appreciated.
Early this summer, I took the vehicle in to a local mechanic for an A/C system inspection because the vehicle was having the issue I've described above. The shop found that there were metal fragments in the refrigerant loop that apparently came off the squash plate (due to detonation in the line, as the mechanic put it). These fragments were in the entire refrigerant loop, necessitating replacing everything under the hood for the A/C. After some deliberation, I made the decision to pay for the job although it was more than I paid for the vehicle 5 years ago (and 60,000 miles ago).
Everything was fine for a month or so. A/C blew cold at idle and speeding down the road. But a little while ago, the same problem appeared. I knew the A/C job had a 12 month warranty on it, so I took it back in and they found a leaking schrader valve and replaced that. When I picked up the vehicle from the shop and drove it home, I was very annoyed to find that the same problem was happening. A/C blowing cold at idle but getting progressively warmer as I accelerated.
So, I took it in again. They did a thorough job trying to track the issue down, or so they told me.. The determined in the end that the climate control module was bad and possibly the blend door actuator (as it had been exhibiting some slipping--plastic gears not as good as they used to be). Replacing the climate control module and blend door actuator will be another $1000, which I really don't want to throw at this vehicle without some strong assurance it will last for a while. They manually moved the blend door to a position to take all A/C (at least that's what they said they did), and then they removed the blend door actuator. The shop owner told me that at least it will work for the rest of summer, and I can decide what to do after that.
I was okay with this, except that when I drove it home from the shop, I noticed (AGAIN!) that it was exhibiting the same issue. Blowing cold at idle but as soon as I start driving down the street, it's getting warm and even hot. The auto shop thought they had fixed the issue, but if they simply driven it around the block, they would have discovered it wasn't fixed (both times!).
So, I started scouring the web (including this forum). I started to think it may be a vacuum issue. Apparently, the door for drawing air from the cab as well as the other vent doors and the heater control valve all operate on vacuum. I learned that as the engine accelerates, the vacuum manifold on the engine loses its vacuum. But that is why the A/C has a separate vacuum reservoir with a check valve inside of it. I found this spherical vacuum reservoir and verified that connecting the vacuum lines in one direction "worked" and in the other "didn't." When I disconnected it (to simulate losing vacuum at higher engine speeds), the air gets hot and just blows out of the defrost vents, which confirmed what I was reading online. Unfortunately, it didn't help me solve the issue I'm experiencing and I'm beginning to think it's not a vacuum issue. The air continues to blow out the panel vents when accelerating, but it's hot. I've confirmed that the heater control valve stays closed while accelerating as well.
Sorry for the book. I wanted to get all the context in one place. I'm really stumped on this one, so any help would be appreciated.