Rear LiftGate on Gen 1 Mounteer and Gen 2 Explorer the Same?

[SupaSwope]

I have a liftgate issue. It wont close or latch. Someone at one point either broke in or locked there keys in the car and ****ed the back hatch where its crocked now. I have tried fixing it for hours with nothing coming close.

Was planning on going to the local junk yard and getting a liftgate from a Gen 2 Explorer. It should work right? Its the same exact truck with different labels as far as everything else goes.

(sorry if its really not, Im new to working on my vehicles.)

I have 1999 Gen 1 Mountaineer
Wanted to pull liftgate from Gen 2 of same year if not really close (Gen 2 Explorer)

UPDATED 8/21/16

Scroll Down or go to Page 2 for More Pictures and write up.

 

[SupaSwope]

Would love to hear from anybody.....

 

[Tedybear]

Ask the local yard about the interchange catalog to be sure. We adapted a 1995 Explorer to accept the rear gate of a 1998 Explorer (both sports) Had to also obtain the rear tail lights as the 1998 had more rounded rear gates, and the 1995 was very "Boxy" (and rusted to hell....)

Take some pictures with you as well to ensure you do not run into any pitfalls along the way. (Such as our return visit to the pick and pull yard to shell out $$ for the tail lights we forgot to get the first time.....)

The interchange at the yard should tell the story. You can also wander around "car-part.com" and enter in your make/model and look for a rear gate. The ones that show up also list what they came out of. It might be helpful..

S-

 

[SupaSwope]

Thanks for the reply. Had they have been closer to the same year you think it would have been more of a drop in fit?

Also when unbolting the thing. How did you do it? I know where the bolts are just asking the method you used when doing it.

 

[Stic-o]

It will bolt on, but the tail lights are the issue. 91-97 gates are the same. 98-01 are different, they round out in the middle. You can't put 95+ lights on a 1st gen unless you cut them up some how.

Hope this helps

 

[SupaSwope]

Thanks for the reply sticko. Gen 1 Mountaineers started as gen 2 Explorers they didn't start making the Mountaineer till 1997, So they are they same exact body style from 1997-2001. Then Gen 2 and Gen 3 of Mountaineer/Explorer started. But since hearing the lights are the only issue, I went partsgeek and they use the same exact rounded housing as gen 2 explorers use.

I'm thinking this is good news.

From what It looks like after looking at my liftgate and pictures of normal ones on the internet my hinges have been bent when they were pryed when someone tryed to get in. There is a gap most of the way around the liftgate and its big enough for all of your fingers to fit into... I am hoping this is just the hinges bent and not body being bent outward where the hinges mount.

So with that in mind I have two options hinges or litigate all together. Both about the same price. Ebay there about $40 bucks a pop. Or the pick a part yard is $72 for the entire liftgate.

But im pretty sure the lock system is busted anyways... more the reason to switch it out. Just maybe hoping I can switch the lock core out in the new liftgate.

 

[toypaseo]

You can't just get the hinges from the pick-a-part yard? The ones I go to charge $6 per hinge.

 

[SupaSwope]

Yeah Toypaseo like I said in my previous comment I am pretty sure the latch mechanism is busted as well.

So either way I need the parts, Probably be better just for me to pop the hatch with the hinges off, also pop out the keyed ignition switch if the junkyard as the keys to that truck so I could use one key for everything.

 

[toypaseo]

Thanks for the reply sticko. Gen 1 Mountaineers started as gen 2 Explorers they didn't start making the Mountaineer till 1997, So they are they same exact body style from 1997-2001. Then Gen 2 and Gen 3 of Mountaineer/Explorer started. But since hearing the lights are the only issue, I went partsgeek and they use the same exact rounded housing as gen 2 explorers use.

The 1997 Mountaineer had the same taillights as 95-97 Explorers AFAIK. I am not sure if the actual hatch is the same as the Explorer's though.

In 1998, the Mountaineer got different headlights and grill, and rear hatch and taillights. The taillights are the same as 98-01 Explorers, but I am not sure if the actual hatch is the same as the Explorer's though. I think the only differences would be cosmetic

 

[SupaSwope]

Thanks for the info Toypaseo. I really do appreciate it. I am hoping its comestic as well.

 

[toypaseo]

I pulled the hatch lock button mechanism from a 98+ Explorer for a member, but I can't remember what it took to swap out the key cylinder in the button itself...

 

[SupaSwope]

Maybe I could figure it out or get a locksmith to help me, either way, im gonna get this thing to work rather I source the parts into my own or replace what I got. I will be hopefully be doing this job next weekend if everything goes right.,

 

[kevinspann]

If you have a 99, you want a 99-01 rear hatch. 98 would also work but doesn't have the holes for the trim across the bottom.

There really are 4 different hatches: 91-94, 95-97, 98, 99-01. Then the later model sports got a different design yet again.

 

[CDW6212R]

The 98-01 hatches are all the same, except for the trim holes which some have(like the wider trim on 98-01 Mountaineers). So using another hatch might end up taking a lot more time just for the holes to fill or drill.

The 98 Mountaineer has holes in the bottom edge of the hatch, I'd bet the 99-01's are identical, because the trim is identical in size.

If your hatch is not rusted(look at bottom edge inside), and has no big body damage, I'd fix that one. You know it's trim is correct, though those holes may be rusting under the trim if the rest is. The internal parts and hinges are all bolt on stuff.

Removing the hatch itself is the 2nd hardest part, putting it on is much worse. Given bent hinges, you will have to spend a lot of time refitting the hatch, moving the hinges and prying the hatch left/right etc. Be patient, it's a very heavy assembly.

 

[koda2000]

I believe pre '98 rear hatches can be fitted, but there are differences with the tail light shape, the location of the license plate, tag lights and wiring.

For as much effort as it would take, I wouldn't bother changing in either direction. If I had to change a hatch I'd look for one that matches what I have (preferably in the same color). Even then, it would be a PITA job.

 

[SupaSwope]

Honestly my rear hatch is really ****ed up now.

Rear Trim Pannel I have thrown away. Hatch doesn't latch or anything and have to open it to get to spare because its crooked.
Theres a dent in the top left of the hatch where I was putting a stick there and now doesnt seal anymore. Big gap.
Latches are are bent. Don't know if they even work.
Interior lock inside the hatch is broken. cretin parts of the plastic and rods are broke or missing.
Thing this is just ****ed. A new hatch is my only option.

 

[SupaSwope]

If you have a 99, you want a 99-01 rear hatch. 98 would also work but doesn't have the holes for the trim across the bottom.

There really are 4 different hatches: 91-94, 95-97, 98, 99-01. Then the later model sports got a different design yet again.

I am hoping this is the case. Dont care so much about trim or looks as I care about fuction.

 

[Tedybear]

Let me see if I can dig around my old photobucket page for some pictures of a 1995 converted over to a 1998 rear hatch:

From when we purchased our 1995. That lip with all the rust? Yeah...no metal left behind that and under the hatch was rotted out about 3" worth.

That's what happens when you install a 1998 hatch on a 1995. (and forget to snag the tail lights from the pick and pull yard.)

Reminds me of my ex-wife. Always looked like she was busting out at the seams (insert lame joke RimShot here....)

Same truck, correct tail lights for a 1998 installed with ease on a 1995. Direct bolt in. No mod's needed. Plug and play.

Notice of warning to people that go to Pick and Pull yards. Not every truck wants to be harvested. Some tend to be very shy.....(Thankfully no one was under this, at least not that I'm aware of.)

The issues we had:
Needed to snag the 1998 rear panel. Totally different window clips used.
Both rear tail lights not made for the 'curved' gate. Had to pick up the replacement ones from the same donor truck a week later with the panel.
Had to re-wire the wiper motor in the back. New gate has 1 of the wires that used to go to the old wiper motor on the 1995 re-assigned to light the license plates. New style wiper motor was reconfigured to use one less wire. Had to run a 7' long wire from the motor allllll the way into the truck's cargo area and splice it into the connector.
Rear Wiper isn't able to retract and 'park' off the glass. It will fall into the crack between the gate and glass and get stuck. Solution: Install the arm about an inch higher. Works fine. Just have to lift the arm up when opening with the glass.

If you can post some pictures of what's going on with yours, we can probably offer more 'clear' aid and direction. And yeah. I could give two cents about the rear trim pieces. While we did get lucky and find a 2door sport with the body in MINT shape. (Don't ask how that happened in NYS where you can hear the cars rust....) It was a challenge to install. And I personally would love to kick the person that re designed the glass hinges. The 1995 ones where factory and worked fine. The 1998 gate? Sure body was 'mint'. The glass hinges where horrible. Went though 4 from the yard to find a set that actually worked.

S-

 

[CDW6212R]

The pre-98 wiper motors use different wiring(one less) and would be an issue for swapping. My 99 has a 93 hatch and matching 93 parts, cut/epoxied 95-97 lights, with a 97 wiper motor and key cylinder, and 1999 wiring. It can all be done, but it gets complicated.

Get an entire 98-01 Explorer/Mountaineer hatch, it will be plug and play for your 99.

Even 02-03 Sport hatches will work, but that creates more issues with wiring, the wipers etc.

 

[SupaSwope]

Thanks for the post teddy, Glad you shared your experience with me. Good to hear someones take on doing something similar. On that note I went ahead and took some pictures like you suggested to help everyone get the idea of whats going on.

Here are some extras info first.

My truck has the lock switch in the back. I don't know if this was a standard option or not. But shouldn't effect anything right as far as wiring? Would think it would go to the box then back. Any how wanted to share that.

The right rear ground copper piece has broken off the window. I pulled it out with plyers. Can't put it back on. But should be switching the hatch out hopefully anyway. Was curios if there was a way to fix this or new glass the only option. Just curious.

Okay so to keep my door ajar light from going off and my interior cab lights working correctly and the auto lock etc. I have to strap my latch down. Notice its only the rear left side. The latch on that side is bent. I will show photos soon.

This is the latch thats messed up and ive tried to fix.

Heres a few photos of the glass piece. Its all jacked up ass well.

Finally here are some pictures of the entire latch. I am show UNSTRAPPED DOWN first.