2000 XLT V8 AWD fair price?

[rdub315]

I'm looking to sell my 2000 XLT. May I ask what a fair asking price is, or do I just need to become an Elite member and post an ad?

 

[FIND]

You need to be elite to post classified ads. To determine a fair asking price, use Kelly Blue Book at www.kbb.com to get a good idea of your car's approximate resale value, then browse ads in your general area on craigslist to get a better idea what the market is like for your truck, and what other people are asking. With the storms you guys have had in the last few months, the market will probably not be too bad for 4WD and AWD SUVs with decent ground clearance.

 

[rigbyrigz]

Here's a curiousity inquiry might be on topic here or of interest to thread readers...

...let's say you have a 2000 Explorer or Mountaineer 5.0L V8 AWD, and you determine from one method or another its NORMAL selling value is about $2000...

...then lets say you find out the FDS is missing, but otherwise it runs fine, and (from threads in this forum) it can be operated reasonably well with care, as is.

I would be interested in opinions, rangiing from $0 to $2000, what one might be willing to pay - as is - with missing FDS. (assuming they wanted the vehicle), of course) - Thanks.

 

[SoNic67]

FDS missing? The Center Differential VC is toasted...

 

[rigbyrigz]

Hi Thanks (please correct me if I am wrong) so even if the VC is toast, with care (when in park) and not pushing things, I think I gleaned from talk in this forum, that the vehicle can still functionally operate safely and reliably as a 2WD vehicle...

...so would still have some value right?

If I am wrong PLEASE correct me.

If I am correct, I am curious what value would be assigned, if it was judged to be worth $2000 WITH FDS intact. Thx.

 

[rigbyrigz]

Now I am going to have trouble sleeping tonite! In all seriousness, hours of reading on the FDS (removed on AWD) issue in this forum convinced me I am able to reasonably safely and carefully operate this vehicle, AS IS.

My 2002 Hyundai (no laughter please) went South when I rushed my seizing dog to the animal emergency, and the hood snapped up and crashed the windshield and other things. I needed something rather quickly.

A neighbor mechanic friend (although only operating part-time out of his front yard at present) informed me of this nice-riding 2000 Mercury Mountaineer he (supposedly) checked out" for his sister, who declined due to external cosmetic issues.

He went with me for a test drive and second checkout; the price was right and it was advertised as a 4WD. The sellers spoke only Spanish (which I can manage in) so the discussions were rather limited. The mechanic "friend" guy kept saying good things and how nice it drove, sounded, etc.

So I bought it, AS IS. The next day I asked him to help me figure some stuff out, including where the 4x4 button was. (I didnt see it.) Of course, this should have been done previously, lesson learned. We did check several things, but not everything, due to limitations plus his earlier "OK" checkout. HE ouldn't find it either, looked underneath, and pronounced the FDS was MISSING.

A great deal of effort with VIN nbr and FORD finally determined I had the AWD trim (not a 2WD) and certainly not the 4x4. This mechanic and I ahd a falling ut, there was some compensation involved for his supposed "expertise."

What to do, what to do. Many hours research (including lots in this forum) surfaced a conclusion that I have about safely driving it. AS IS. It seems to run fine. Please anyone enlighten me if this is not so. Thanks!

 

[koda2000]

as far as i've read, no FDS causes "drift" in PARK (whatever that means, i assume it means rolls in PARK). so, driving it safely isn't the problem as much as parking it safely.

well, i don't know how much it would cost someone to set it straight mechanically (assuming there's nothing else seriously wrong with it), but i just bought a 2000 Mountaineer 5.0L, AWD, w/151K in GA. it's not in great shape cosmetically, but not horrible. mechanically it's checking out to be very good so far (and i'm not trusting someone else's "expert" opinion). i gave $2k for it. i figure it's gonna take about $500 to set it completely right (mostly in front seat leather), but according to KBB, for my zip code, it's worth $4,250, so i can spend a few bucks on it and still be ahead. hope this helps...

 

[rigbyrigz]

HI Koda, Thanks for your reply.

Mine (2000 M M AWD 5.0L V8) came with 152K in NJ, B+ cosmetically, also cost $2000. But then of course I discovered missing FDS!!

Yeah they say (big thread HERE in forum) that on AWD 1996-01, the FDS somehow controls 35% of the parking "prawel", or something like that, and it can slip in Park to N, and roll. So the EB definitely is gonna be used (wish the dash light for it worked, it flashed a couple times, not sure if its a bulb or switch or contact problem, some good threads here in forum.

Yeah there was lotsa talking about frying the differntial or VC and it hardening the fluid etc, but no one judged that to affect a 2WD safe travel. Hmmn. Of course I have no clue how long its been missing, and how far driven with no FDS. Theres been 5 owners.

THANKS! (Wish me luck

PS My CURRENT PLAN is to use it as is, not mechanically "set it right, unless some awful news surfaces about the situation, here or elsewhere.

 

[koda2000]

Good luck!

Let us know how it works out for you. I'm curious if there are any other consequences to not having the FDS. My advice would be to make sure your parking brake is working 100% and use it every time you park.

 

[rigbyrigz]

Probably off thread topic, but was wondering, if you have a faulty bulb or switch for EB, other than setting the brake and parking on an incline or in N on an incline, and watching for a roll, is there any other way for a common-man (non-mechanic non-DIY'er) to know if the EB is fully or even partially doing its job? Thx.

 

[koda2000]

Probably off thread topic, but was wondering, if you have a faulty bulb or switch for EB, other than setting the brake and parking on an incline or in N on an incline, and watching for a roll, is there any other way for a common-man (non-mechanic non-DIY'er) to know if the EB is fully or even partially doing its job? Thx.

not sure what you mean by "faulty bulb" but it's pretty common for the little ground switch (that turns the BRAKE light bulb on) to become dirty/corroded, especially if not used often. the switch can be found on the top of the parking brake pedal mechanisum. some WD40 and maybe some sand paper on the contacts will usually revive it. if the bulb on the instrument cluster is burnt out, you can usually find another unused bulb on the back of the cluster to switch it with (they're all labeled and every hole has a bulb in it).

if the parking brake hasn't been used in a long time, they tend to rust up and not work. it's also common for the left side cable to break and for the shoes to be completely worn off. remove your rear rotors and check the condition of everything and the operation of all the moving parts. testing on a hill while in neutral would tell you a lot.

 

[rigbyrigz]

Thanks again for reply. Dont mean to scare you off, but Im not actually too spry nor mechanically inclined as a DIYer, so removing the rotors is probably not on my horizon, although stopping on a hill and seeing if I roll is probably doable

The more I learn about the situation the better, allows me to maybe interface better with some local repair guy. So thanks. And I am trying to do a few things on my own.

I THINK the parking brake (EB) bulb works, at least it came on a couple of times (but not regularly) at ignition, but doesn't come on nor stay on when the EB is engaged.

And then once it the light came on when the EB was not engaged, stayed on, and I had to set it release it 2-3 times before I got the light to go out.

I read a few detailed threads here about the switch and contacts and WD40 and such, so your suggestion is at the top of my list of things to try.

Anyone in NJ (South, Central, or Shore) in the forum reading this, and wanting to do some remedial work for compensation, please hit me up. Thanks.