2001 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC Q's

[Souljacker]

Well, I bought another explorer - a 2001 sport with 126k and a really detailed and long carfax history that didn't have any red flags (just a bunch of maintenance things all done at the dealer) but I have some questions as

1. This is my first automatic. Like, ever. Yes. Both my older 97 explorer and my 01 accent are manuals, as was the 95 accent before that and my first car ever, a 89 (i think) subaru.
2. This is also apparently my first vehicle with an ABS.

I've spent a lot of time on here reading through threads, but some things are a little hazy.

First, I know all about the scary timing chain tensioner problems these ohcs had. Is there a way I can find out whether the engine in mine had any of the various improvements that happened over the years? Or am I pretty much just going to have this problem at some point period? So far, the engine is quiet and runs beautifully. Knock on wood.

Second, I notice that there is this odd "OD" setting. Someone told me that leaving that on will just tear up the transmission. How worried do I need to be about that? This vehicle is replacing my accent as my daily driver and I'm getting rid of the 97, so I want to treat this ford with as much loving care as possible to get the most out of it. Anyone who can explain to me what the point of this setting is and how best to use it would be my hero!

Third and regarding the ABS - when I come to a stop it is very smooth, but just before it's about to completely stop it feels like it releases or something, and the pedal depresses a little more and then it will fully catch. It's a little scary, but I was told that's just the ABS and it's not a safety issue. I believe the guy - but is there anything I can do to make it like.. Not feel like "omg it's not going to stop!!!"?


Finally, is there anything else I should know to watch out for on the 01 sport?

Thanks for any advice\info!

 

[swshawaii]

Regarding your timing chain tensioner questions, also use the 2001-2005 Sport
Trac sub forum as the 2 door Sport is the same from the "C" pillar forward. GL

Owners Manual (Overdrive Page 63) (ABS 125-126)
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/?link=002&urlfile=/pubs/content/~WO1U27/~MUS~LEN/37/01u27og6e.pdf

FREE TSB's & WIRING DIAGRAMS
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

Please complete your "thread display options".
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/profile.php?do=editoptions

 

[Maginley]

Timing chain is a pain I actually replaced the whole engine when mine went. How I checked to see if it was going was take off the oil pan. I found Orange plastic pieces in the bottom which ended up being the guides. As far as the O/D I just don't touch mine its default on and I just leave it be. And with your brakes/ABS it sounds to me like you either could get new brakes or add fluid and bleed the lines. Mine felt like that at one point but I didn't think anything of it and changed the brakes and bled the lines as part of maintance and now I don't feel it. But I'm not sure which did the trick. Bleed it first as its the cheapest and see if that fixes it. Hope you enjoy it !

 

[Souljacker]

I'm thinking the same thing - I'll just run it until I hear it rattling and then start looking for something out of a newer explorer or mustang. I saw some threads where this was what guys here were doing. Either that or I'll keep it a couple years and trade it in for some other explorer. Keeping my fingers crossed for now.

I looked at the explorer trac forum - it's actually a little scary over there! almost every thread I clicked on was a timing chain issue thread.

I love these explorers but I wish I'd been able to find a lower milage ohv one. Maybe I shoulda taken that 03 ranger instead ; ;

 

[Souljacker]

Another question - it needs lower ball joints, and I'm thinking that the uppers might as well be replaced as well.

I've been looking to see what parts to get, and there seems to be two different kinds for the right side? There's one part that is a two piece, and another that is a one piece - both are listed for the right side but they just look completely different. Are they interchangeable? Is there a way to tell which one mine uses without taking the wheels off?

My mechanic diagnosed the lowers but the price he quoted me is kind of.. wow. 30 buck markup on the parts alone and he's going for the full 4 hours Ford says can be charged, so I'm thinking that dumping a grand into this right away isn't what I want to do. I'd rather at least give it one go myself.

 

[96eb96]

Another question - it needs lower ball joints, and I'm thinking that the uppers might as well be replaced as well.

I've been looking to see what parts to get, and there seems to be two different kinds for the right side? There's one part that is a two piece, and another that is a one piece - both are listed for the right side but they just look completely different. Are they interchangeable? Is there a way to tell which one mine uses without taking the wheels off?

My mechanic diagnosed the lowers but the price he quoted me is kind of.. wow. 30 buck markup on the parts alone and he's going for the full 4 hours Ford says can be charged, so I'm thinking that dumping a grand into this right away isn't what I want to do. I'd rather at least give it one go myself.

Only your eyes can tell what you have on the right side. Who knows, maybe it was changed. The one piece requires a bit of extra work(not much more on the right, the left is the harder side), but you get new bushings. The two piece is easier to install if you have that style. It is a Coke or Pepsi kind of debate. If you get the one piece you also need to buy new camber adjust bolts to hold the arm so it can be adjusted.

 

[swshawaii]

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

 

[Maginley]

right the two piece on one side is for alignment reasons. i dont get it but it works and makes it easy to replace bushing or even grease the ball joints. you cant tell by looking at it you dont need to take the tires off just turn the wheel and the in one direction so you can see it easier. you can easily do the top ones yourself one piece or two (two piece may need alittle more steps for install im sure you can youtube search a how to. i just finished doing my sway bar links today and found a how too to help) back to the ball joints the tops are simple but the bottoms i would get done only because i dont have the tools for it such as the ball joint press kit.

 

[Souljacker]

Thanks for the info, and that document is great! So now I know what to look for.

I have a question about the lowers though - my guy quoted me 82 bucks a piece for lowers, moog brand, but I see them on amazon for like 25 bucks.

Moog K8695T

According to Advance's lookup and Amazon's lookup, this is the right part. From a store its just under 50 bucks, is there anything else that could account for the massive markup? I get like a 10% markup on stuff - that's what we do at my office on computers we sell - but 30 bucks markup on a 50 dollar part? Am I missing something here like some sort of extended warranty he might be adding? Or should I just get the part off amazon for 25 and call it a day.

 

[WH1056]

Third and regarding the ABS - when I come to a stop it is very smooth, but just before it's about to completely stop it feels like it releases or something, and the pedal depresses a little more and then it will fully catch.

Thanks for any advice\info!

Just had the same problem with my '01 Sport last August. It had a bad (LF) wheel sensor.
I was fortunate enough to have a spare front wheel bearing unit that I saved from my '95, so I used the sensor out of it.

 

[swshawaii]

Thanks for the info, and that document is great! So now I know what to look for.

I have a question about the lowers though - my guy quoted me 82 bucks a piece for lowers, moog brand, but I see them on amazon for like 25 bucks.

Moog K8695T

According to Advance's lookup and Amazon's lookup, this is the right part. From a store its just under 50 bucks, is there anything else that could account for the massive markup? I get like a 10% markup on stuff - that's what we do at my office on computers we sell - but 30 bucks markup on a 50 dollar part? Am I missing something here like some sort of extended warranty he might be adding? Or should I just get the part off amazon for 25 and call it a day.

I didn't know jewelry stores sold auto parts. K8695T is the correct number. Make sure it's a GENUINE
Moog part because several manufacturers use the same number as Moog. Here's RockAuto's part listings.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1366679,parttype,10070

Moog Problem Solver Bulletin for the K8695T
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_212006_K8695T_En.pdf

 

[morgfarm1]

I just traded my 01 Explorer Sport in. Mine has a bad rap sheet, mostly because The owner before me neglected it.

Mine fell victim to P0171 and P0174 (System too Lean bank 1, bank 2.) I Changed the upper set of intake gaskets, Didn't get around to the lower set (Though that was likely the issue)

Rough Idle (resolved with new Idle Air Controller)

Cold start issues (Blend of both above issues) - Would start but require a bit of throttle to keep it alive. (I just read up in my haynes manual, It could have been the Throttle position sensor. I have an OBD II system that gives me real time telemetry, the trottle pos @ Manifold was 18.8% at idle, where as my 99 Limited is 20.4 (same with my mother's '05 taurus)

Severe vibration under braking (fades with more pressure to brakes)

Groaning sound while idle that gets louder when you open the air filter box (Didn't have it long enough to finish tracing that problem, but it seemed to be vacuum related)

Brake caliper bolts backing out (See this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3097702)

Sway bar bolt failure (Left side only. Found it broken, replaced it, bushing pulled through)

Fuel Gauge working when it wants

Tach working when it wants (tapping the dash dials usually fixed it.. And then broke it again if you continued on)

This isn't a 'Problem' per-se, but the Thermostat I found in it was the 175F. make sure to put in the 190F thermostat unless you live in a very hot environment. (for the sake of having a heater this winter)
To add on, The engine idle issue at cold usually faded away after the engine reached max run temp (185F)

Power drops (usually in the morning with the cold start issue. I'd be on the gas and I'd feel half my power go away. Slamming the pedal to the floor for 1-2 seconds usually fixed it. That may well be a timing issue, since the 4.0 SOHC does have a timing chain issue.

rattling sound at start (traced to a probable chain tensioner issue after some research after selling it)

My 99 Limited has the same exact engine my Sport had. So far this one's smooth and clean. Most of my issue with the Sport was likely because, again, the owners took almost no care of it. (first oil change I gave it was when I got it, 160k Miles old) and the fuel filters were spitting black, air filter was the same color as my tires. Never did change the plugs/wires while I had it, so that might have had part to do with some of my running issues. Duno, she aint my problem any more.

Oh, and if you have a keyless entry like my Sport did, There's a handy little thread found Here that'll help you recover lost door code. its a B***h to read where it's at, but it's correct. There's a separate thread specifically for Sport models Here that helps you find it more precisely. It apparently depends on the Build date that tells you where you can find the codes.

Any other questions, Let us all know. I've only been registered for a few minutes, but I've followed these forums since i got my 01 Sport (Spring 2012) and everyone here seems helpful.

PS. One thing I forgot to Add to this. I have Torque Pro on Android with a bluetooth OBD II adapter, and when it was connected to the ECU while driving, I'd get random CEL codes that weren't even valid. I'm suspicious that my ECU/PCM may have been faulty in that too, but I didn't have the money to even try and trade those out. My mom's 05 taurus and my new 99 Explorer never showed those symptoms.

 

[Souljacker]

Wow... that's a lot of stuff wrong! My explorer doesn't have anything like that. Just ball joints and something goofy with the ABS system.

Thanks for the links to rockauto. Interesting that they have the part for pretty much the same price. I wonder where the heck my mechanic is getting his parts that they are so expensive. I'm going to just order them from Rock auto and have him put them in. I don't mind putting money in his pocket but.. Well saving this much money on parts means I have a little cash to throw at my hyundai. Maybe she won't end up as scrap after all.

So far, I like this explorer well enough. It's not as comfortable as the manual one was, and it's taking a LOT of getting used to with an automatic tranny (personally I don't think this truck has a clue wtf its doing with regards to when to shift), but we are starting to get along a little better.