2002 4.0L V6 valve cover gasket replacement and TIPS!

[xyberz]

Is there a video out there on how to do this???

 

[Blackonblack02]

This is an old thread, but worth revisiting because the info is useful. I could not undo the lower EGR tube connection, and the upper seemed to be seized as well. I was afraid bending the EGR tube far enough to remove the valve cover would risk breakage and compound my problems. My approach to the passenger side cover was to unbolt the EGR from the intake manifold side, leaving it in place on the end of the tube and bending the tube just slightly so the valve cover could lift up about an inch (but not completely off) and I realized there was clearance between the inside of the valve cover and the top of all the moving parts under the cover. I was able to pull the old gasket off and thread it past everything underneath the valve cover just by feeling with my fingertips, and could reverse the process. Of course, this is not the ideal way because you will have to clean and inspect the sealing surfaces by mirror and feel only, but it worked out for me.

Have you had any issues with re-installing this tube? I followed these same principles upon reading similar posts on this site, but I have yet to get my EGR tube correctly re-installed. It is loose on the intake manifold side. I eventually got it out after several tries of PB Blaster and the correct size wrenches on the exhaust manifold, but after having bent it, I spent hours trying to get it back to the correct shape, never to have it lodge into the intake manifold correctly again. I ended up tightening the nut on it tight enough to get it to stay, but it has been throwing codes since then, and my current two options are either: a) buy a new one for $225 and only take one intake manifold off, or b) go to pull-a-part and take a manifold off to retrieve a used one that has the correct shape (and may be a totall @$$ about coming off).

How did you get it back correctly after bending it without metal-working tools and diagrams showing correct bend?

 

[p71]

Have you had any issues with re-installing this tube? I followed these same principles upon reading similar posts on this site, but I have yet to get my EGR tube correctly re-installed. It is loose on the intake manifold side. I eventually got it out after several tries of PB Blaster and the correct size wrenches on the exhaust manifold, but after having bent it, I spent hours trying to get it back to the correct shape, never to have it lodge into the intake manifold correctly again. I ended up tightening the nut on it tight enough to get it to stay, but it has been throwing codes since then, and my current two options are either: a) buy a new one for $225 and only take one intake manifold off, or b) go to pull-a-part and take a manifold off to retrieve a used one that has the correct shape (and may be a totall @$$ about coming off).

How did you get it back correctly after bending it without metal-working tools and diagrams showing correct bend?

It has been about two years since I did this, but I was careful to try to bend only in one direction on a relatively straight portion of the pipe, and just enough for minimal clearance to lift up the valve cover a little bit, not enough to fully remove the valve cover. The pipe is very hard to bend, and I was able to just muscle the tube and EGR Valve back into alignment with the intake and thread in the bolts in without any problem. Long term, I have had no issues with this, although the valve cover gaskets I installed at the time (Victor Reinz) are starting to seep a little bit in cold weather.

 

[Blackonblack02]

It has been about two years since I did this, but I was careful to try to bend only in one direction on a relatively straight portion of the pipe, and just enough for minimal clearance to lift up the valve cover a little bit, not enough to fully remove the valve cover. The pipe is very hard to bend, and I was able to just muscle the tube and EGR Valve back into alignment with the intake and thread in the bolts in without any problem. Long term, I have had no issues with this, although the valve cover gaskets I installed at the time (Victor Reinz) are starting to seep a little bit in cold weather.

I was so frustrated with not being able to loosen the tube at the exhaust manifold that I bent it pretty well. I'm in the process of preparing to sell the vehicle, so I need to get the "Service Engine Soon" light off if possible without rigging it. No leaks from mine yet, but it has only been 8 months.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[joelunchbox]

it helps to apply penetrating oil when whatever is hot. BE AWARE THIS INCREASES THE POSSIBILITY OF FIRE. But the heat will pull the oil into the threads. Be careful, have a wet towel handy or fire extinguisher. And don't go crazy with the penetrating oil.

 

[Craig Del Buono]

I got sick and tired of the aroma of burnt oil on the exhaust manifolds....every time at a stop light the fumes would be overwhelming! So I finally bit the bullet and did this job. It's a pain! You need to remove the intake manifold to get access to the valve covers. It's a good idea to replace the manifold seals while at it. Basic tools can get the job done with a couple of exceptions. You'll need 1/4" drive small torx sockets (ok, pretty basic) to get the intake manifold screws out. You'll also need an inspection mirror to see the driver's side rear screw. The worst part was the egr tube. Here's where you'll need a 27 mm open end wrench and probably a 27 mm crowfoot wrench, 1/2" drive. I was able to get the tube nut loose at the top end (egr valve) but had real problems at the header. There appears to be a fitting screwed into the header and then the tube with nut screws into that. I could NOT break the two loose but could only turn the tube with nut attached to the fitting. The problem with this is that it didn't allow the tube to be removed, so I forced and bent the tube enough to get the valve (right side) cover off. This made it really difficult to get the tube back in, come assembly time, but I managed. I think you'll need a 25 mm open end wrench to hold the fitting while you loosen the tube nut with the 27 mm crowfoot wrench.

The good news is that the job is done and there are no more oil leaks. And it started up immediately.

I was lazy and didn't remove the negative battery cable. I also did not relieve fuel system pressure. Got just a little leak on disassembly - no biggie. So if you have any specific questions on this job, I think I can answer them now.

Tom

If the torx screw is rusted rounded out how do you remove it?

I got sick and tired of the aroma of burnt oil on the exhaust manifolds....every time at a stop light the fumes would be overwhelming! So I finally bit the bullet and did this job. It's a pain! You need to remove the intake manifold to get access to the valve covers. It's a good idea to replace the manifold seals while at it. Basic tools can get the job done with a couple of exceptions. You'll need 1/4" drive small torx sockets (ok, pretty basic) to get the intake manifold screws out. You'll also need an inspection mirror to see the driver's side rear screw. The worst part was the egr tube. Here's where you'll need a 27 mm open end wrench and probably a 27 mm crowfoot wrench, 1/2" drive. I was able to get the tube nut loose at the top end (egr valve) but had real problems at the header. There appears to be a fitting screwed into the header and then the tube with nut screws into that. I could NOT break the two loose but could only turn the tube with nut attached to the fitting. The problem with this is that it didn't allow the tube to be removed, so I forced and bent the tube enough to get the valve (right side) cover off. This made it really difficult to get the tube back in, come assembly time, but I managed. I think you'll need a 25 mm open end wrench to hold the fitting while you loosen the tube nut with the 27 mm crowfoot wrench.

The good news is that the job is done and there are no more oil leaks. And it started up immediately.

I was lazy and didn't remove the negative battery cable. I also did not relieve fuel system pressure. Got just a little leak on disassembly - no biggie. So if you have any specific questions on this job, I think I can answer them now.

Tom

 

[Drewmcg]

You're speaking of the torx screws for the intake manifold, right? Is the one you stripped toward the front of the engine, or back by the firewall? I managed to strip one on the front once (won't do it again), and managed to saw/bust the head of it off, remove the intake manifold, and extract it with an extractor. Saved the intake manifold that way.

But if you round the one by the firewall, I don't see how you'd get it out w/o destroying the intake manifold. You could get a replacement from the junkyard; maybe you can talk the guy there into taking that one off for you!