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2002 Front bearing replacement?

DD243

New Member
Joined
January 7, 2009
Messages
6
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City, State
Central NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002
Do I have to replace the hub assembly or can I just replace the bearings in the hub? Ive priced both and its obvious the bearing is ALOT cheaper then the whole hub/bearing. Thanks for any help guys
 



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i bought the whole hub assembly cost 110 bucks and wasnt bad installing. axle bolt and 3 bolts holding the hub on. i just cut the old bolts and slid it off threw the new one on lock tite, torque and your good too go
 






where did you find them for $110?
 






You can find them on eBay every once in awhile for 50-60 bucks.
 






Macknos94, I've already replaced both front hubs and just curious how you cut the hub bolts. May help others who will be doing this job

Your right in that it's an easy job but, those bolts are time consuming to turn out.
 






I just did it, I bought the hub assemblies for $118 each (the found them cheaper afterwards) but it was very simple. It was very time consuming turning out the bolts, but after they soaked in penetrating oil (the passngr side soaked the whole time I worked on the driver's side) and thos came out very quickly. I have this "ionized penetrating oil" in an aerosol can. works like a charm.
Anyways... heads up on the updated part from Timken... the hub is sealed internally, so don't spend a couple of hours chasing a part that doesn't exist. There is no inner hub seal for the updated unit. Just throw the new hubs on, torque 'em down and call it good.
 






Its good to hear someone was able to do it. I tried but failed, got it down to one hub bolt that wouldn't turn rusted. Might have something to do with living in a great salt state. I was using a 15mm deep well and air gun and i got the bolt about halfway then nothing either way. Put it all back and took it in $100 and 30min later the guy is done. . .Can i ask a couple of questions?
How do you get the bearing bolts out, the CV joint was in the way? I spent like 1 hour on those alone. Getting there only took 10min
Once the bolts are out how did you get the hub out? Mine seemed welded in with rust.

the original problem ABS light coming on intermittently, STILL ON, so my next guess is do the right front, I might try again, but its expected to be in teen's and snow next week. . .so maybe not.
 






damn the bolts are that tough even with air tools???

How long did you soak the bolts???
 






On mine, I removed the cv nut (air impact and loaner socket from Advance Auto), then used a three jaw puller to push back the cv shaft away from the bolts, lightly. That gave enough room for short 15mm socket and breaker bar to begin the 1/8 turn fun, NOT!

When I felt the bolt get tight, turned back in and soaked with Marvel Mys. oil
 






Sorry guys... I probably should have mentioned that mine is a 2WD. Didn't have any CV axles.
The penetrating oil I used was called In-Force. I bought it at a Ford dealership in Colorado years ago.. but I imagine it can be found at any auto parts store. Love the stuff. Had an oil cooler adapter on my Bronco that was rusted/siezed in place... it was shapped like a can and I couldn't get it to budge. If I gripped it with channel-locks it would crush it. I sprayed it with the In-Force and let it sit for a few hours and it came right off with my hand. I only had to soak the hub bolts for about a half hour or so before it worked it's magic in the threads.
 






there wasn't a core charge or anything so I got the 15mm bolts as loose as I could the tapped the hub assembly out. it gave me about a half a inch of space between the hub and spindle. then just angle grinder with a diamond blade it zipped right through the bolts
 






Great idea using the angle grinder!

Thanks for the tip, definitely keep that one in the bag of tricks.
 






x2 on the angle grinder that would have worked. If you have it an air gun would beat on those bolts from the back side to push out the hub. The hub was soaked for about an hour might want to plan on doing it for a few days before. But I think my problem was due to only 90psi and a cheap air gun. .and cheap thick walled sockets. I read one guy ground down the outside of a socket to help clear the CV joint. I did have the CV joint back as far as it would go. . .
One tool the shop had was an 90 angle impact wrench or a powerfull small one.
one more to do hopefully the weather will break - snow and single digits on the way.
 






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