2003 XLT 4.0 flex fuel died

[Lorelei L]

I think I might have more than one issue going on. A couple weeks ago my girlfriend & I were driving and the thing just died as we pulled away from a stop sign. Steered over to the curb, put it in park, turned the key off & tried to start it. All dash lights came on & went off as they should but it wouldn't even turn over. We were late for a concert so I just left it there & got a ride. Came back the next morning & it still wouldn't crank over. Opened the hood & had a look around for anything obvious. Checked everything in the power dist box, all looked good. Smacked the solenoid thingy on top of the fuel rail (pardon my terminology, I only know the basics) and just fyi I am an oldish female . After I did that, I got back in to see if anything had changed. This time all the lights went off except the check fuel cap and then it cranked but no fire. Messed with the fuel cap & it fired up so I hurried my butt home (4 miles). Bought a new cap at AutoZone and all was good until yesterday. Luckily this time I was only 1/2 mile from home. Idling outside the store for less than 5 minutes and it just died again. Tried all the same things as the last time.

When the fuel cap light is not on, it won't even crank. Once that light stays on, it cranks but won't fire. My son used his 2002 X to push mine home where the tools are. Pulled off the air hose & shot some starting fluid into the throttle body & it started for a sec then died. Kept trying to start it & it finally stayed running so I pulled it into my driveway. My fuel filler neck was loose so I tightened those 3 screws on top by the cap. That was yesterday. Today I went out to check it and it fired right up.

I've been reading posts everywhere for 2 weeks and I'm more confused than when I started. I've been under that damn X from front to back checking hoses, connections, fuses, relays looking for anything out of the ordinary.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm afraid this damn X is going to strand me in the middle of bfe one of these days.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Intermittent problems can make people crazy! In my experience, sounds like fuel pump. How many miles on truck? Do you know if it is original fuel pump? Do you know if truck is getting fuel? Tank has fuel? Can you hear fuel pump hum when you first turn the key?

Just trying to guess.

Mr. Alligator

 

[Lorelei L]

I've had this X for about 7 months (it's my 5th one in 20 years), probably original fuel pump, & just under 100K miles. It has 1/2 tank, I pressed the fuel schrader valve near the fuel rail & fuel shot out with pretty good force, I can hear fuel pump when I first turn the key. I was thinking fuel pump also but what's the deal with it only trying to fire when the check fuel cap light comes on but when that light goes off, it won't even crank?

Thanks for helping me in my crazy guessing game Mr. Alligator ;-)

 

[Mr. Alligator]

When you say it won't even crank, do you mean it won't even turn over with the starter? Or do you mean just won't start?

Do you have the fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve even when it is in the no start condition?

I would not have any idea about why it only tries to fire with the fuel cap light on, unless it the PCM causing the trouble.

Still just guessing,

Mr. Alligator

 

[Lorelei L]

When it is in the no crank issue, I mean when I turn the key, absolutely nothing happens. It won't even turn over (this is when the check fuel cap light is not lit up). Also, while at this point, I did have good spray at the schrader valve (I do not have fuel pressure tester). The only absolutes I can guarantee are: I tightened the fuel filler neck that was loose and bought a new fuel cap. I drove it earlier tonight for 6.5 miles (kinda thrashing it because I want to replicate the issue). I let it idle in the street in front of my house for about a half hour then drove it like I stole it . No issues of any kind :-/ After that I let it idle in front of my house & in my heavily slanted driveway for about 30 minutes. I have not been able to replicate the issue, yet. I am completely baffled right now and I love puzzles but this one is frustrating me to no end! Give me a motorcycle or a lawn mower and I'm right as rain! Cars & trucks are a bit different to me. I'm not a fan of guessing games but that's where I'm at right now :-(

Current vehicles: 02 Explorer, 03 Explorer, 96 F250.
Past vehicles: Mustangs 66, 81, 83, 85, 91, 93, 95, 97, F250 Super Duty 04, 05, Contour SVT 97 , F150 92 & 95, Explorers 92, 93, 95, Rangers & Mazda B2000's. Fords for life for this lady!

I'm not dumb, but I'm also not a car mechanic. I super duper appreciate any and all input from anyone & everyone. Thanks Mr. Alligator, from this hard core Ford woman

 

[Mr. Alligator]

That is odd. I would say you might have a bad PCM. Just guessing. A little to odd and unrelated to be anything else. PCM is easy to replace, but hard to diagnose. Not to expensive either, except that usually I replace and go through every other potential problem part before I get to figuring bad PCM.

Is it throwing any codes? You can get them read for free at most auto parts stores. Keep this truck in town, hopefully, for now.

Mr. Alligator

 

[imp]

I've had this X for about 7 months (it's my 5th one in 20 years), probably original fuel pump, & just under 100K miles. It has 1/2 tank, I pressed the fuel schrader valve near the fuel rail & fuel shot out with pretty good force, I can hear fuel pump when I first turn the key. I was thinking fuel pump also but what's the deal with it only trying to fire when the check fuel cap light comes on but when that light goes off, it won't even crank?

Thanks for helping me in my crazy guessing game Mr. Alligator ;-)

@Lorelei L The fuel cap light may just be used in this case to indicate the problem is fuel-related. I suspect if the PCM is faulty, it would not be turning on that light. Checking for codes is a must.

As an example of what I'm saying, a faulty ABS module will throw the code P2106 "Electronic Throttle Control Forced Limited Power", which typically sends the repair guy to the throttle body, which is not at fault at all.

I think the "drive by wire" came in 2004, but not certain. Just sayin', wish I could help more. imp

 

[Mr. Alligator]

@Lorelei L The fuel cap light may just be used in this case to indicate the problem is fuel-related. I suspect if the PCM is faulty, it would not be turning on that light. Checking for codes is a must.

As an example of what I'm saying, a faulty ABS module will throw the code P2106 "Electronic Throttle Control Forced Limited Power", which typically sends the repair guy to the throttle body, which is not at fault at all.

I think the "drive by wire" came in 2004, but not certain. Just sayin', wish I could help more. imp

@imp. Good thoughts. And fuel was my first guess also. But if it were fuel related, would that ever cause the truck to not turn over at all, when the key is turned? This one is tough, and maybe best to keep trying and get ready for ultimate tow to shop. Intermittent problems can be so difficult.

What a devil-beater,

Mr. Alligator

 

[imp]

@Lorelei L

What a devil-beater,

Mr. Alligator

@Mr. Alligator
@Lorelei L
The no crank issue might not be related to the failure to start. I have seen cases where an intermittent connection at the battery terminals caused a complete no crank, no click, nothing, one minute, and a sudden ability to conduct current on the next try, and crank the engine. I think eliminating that possibility would be a good start. Remove the battery cables and if they are of the big square lead type, look inside, upside down for any discoloration; I use a large rat-tail (round) file to clean the inside that wraps around the battery post. Clean the posts too by rubbing with sand paper or abrasive cloth.

My 2004 came from the factory with flimsy-looking brass terminals; if dealing with that kind, cleaning still applies. Always apply a coating of grease all over the terminals of both the cables and battery before reconnecting. Vaseline would work well if nothing else is handy. The grease prevents corrosion of the metal by acid fumes which are always present.

Incidentally Bum F Egypt would be a bad place to break down! ;) imp

 

[Mr. Alligator]

@Mr. Alligator
@Lorelei L
The no crank issue might not be related to the failure to start. I have seen cases where an intermittent connection at the battery terminals caused a complete no crank, no click, nothing, one minute, and a sudden ability to conduct current on the next try, and crank the engine. I think eliminating that possibility would be a good start. Remove the battery cables and if they are of the big square lead type, look inside, upside down for any discoloration; I use a large rat-tail (round) file to clean the inside that wraps around the battery post. Clean the posts too by rubbing with sand paper or abrasive cloth.

My 2004 came from the factory with flimsy-looking brass terminals; if dealing with that kind, cleaning still applies. Always apply a coating of grease all over the terminals of both the cables and battery before reconnecting. Vaseline would work well if nothing else is handy. The grease prevents corrosion of the metal by acid fumes which are always present.

Incidentally Bum F Egypt would be a bad place to break down! ;) imp[/QUOTE

So the failure to crank might be one issue, and the failure to start (while cranking) might be another? Sounds very possible. And then two separate intermittent problems.

BFE might not be as bad as downtown Atlanta.

Mr. Alligator