2003 XLT Slow Speed "Shudder"

[mfinkler]

I have the same problem. I had Ford do the fluid change today. I didn't notice the shutter on the way home but did notice it when pulling in the driveway. Has anyone had it taken more than a day or so for it to stop? When the clutch packs go what happens? Does it tear up any gears? Can the vehicle still be driven? I assume if it doesn't go away in a week or so I need to have the TSB done right? My wife is suppose to make a long trip next week and I'm a little leary of letting her take it.

 

[mhochman]

Is your 03 a 4x4 or 2WD?

 

[mfinkler]

2wd

 

[mfinkler]

I had Ford change the fluid and I'm still getting the shutter. It's been going on for about a month and I had the Fluid changed 4 days ago. How long do I have before the clutch packs go completly out? I'm fighting with Ford Corp. to have them pay for it. I know I'm probably beating a dead horse but I it's worth a shot. My Grandfather and Father were 30 year Ford Transmission Plant workers I'm hoping that helps a little.

 

[mhochman]

How can I tell if I have a posi rear end. The info sticker on my door has a number 45 above "Rear End". What does 45 mean???

 

[rrgone]

How can I tell if I have a posi rear end. The info sticker on my door has a number 45 above "Rear End". What does 45 mean???

Ford axle codes listed here: http://www.explorerforum.com/ntrprize/Axle.htm
But I dunno what 'open' means. Anybody?

BTW http://www.explorerforum.com/ntrprize/ is a great resource. Everyone should have it bookmarked.

 

[DVRDOWN]

Catch the problem early if you can, mine went bad and were replaced on my 02 XLT 4x4, total cost of almost 4,000. Luckily Ford picked up most of the tab.

 

[jhartney]

A final followup to this long posting. Appearntly my oil change was just a temporary fix to the issue. In fact I can cause the issue to surface, AND I can cause the issue to go away. At a speed of about 25-30 MPH I accelerate hard (to pass) and the shudder issue will now be appearent. At a stop I place vehicle in reverse and gas it just hard enough to chirp the tires and the shudder problem will go away. The differential whine is getting slightly louder over time and I have decided to replace the thing, found one at a salvage yard for $350 and it only has 245 miles on it (shame to scrap a Explorer at only 245 miles, gona have to see what else I might grab off that guy).

 

[justforfun]

Hello my XLT 2wd has about 41000 miles and noticed the exact same problem that started at about 40000 miles. Very annoying problem and my wife and I just had a heated discussion concerning lack of extended warranty and lost of my job

Question: If i was to purchase extended warranty will warranty repair this type of problem? Any suggestions on extended warranty for the best price and coverage?

or

I read i can buy two bottles of Synthetic oil and the additive, but how hard is the install? Do I need any special type of tools or gaskets?

THANKS A MILLION EVERYBODY

 

[justforfun]

If you search this problem on this website, you will find there is a TSB that says to install new limited slip clutches of a different design than the original ones. I had it done under warranty and the problem is gone.

I called my local ford dealer and asked if there is a TSB on this, so i gave him my VIN# and the only one that popped up was for a rear window motor. There are no other TSBs for my car

 

[jhartney]

No seals or gaskets to buy, maybe some pipe tape on the drain plug threads if you so desire. Drain case by removing the lower drain plug, this takes a 3/4" drive which is not in most weekend garage mechanics tool boxes. I bought a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adapter and used my 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the plug. After draining replace the plug and remove the fill plug above, this takes a 3/8" drive. To add the oil it is best to buy a small hand siphon pump, I got one at our local Harbor Freight Tools store for 5 bucks. On the replacement differential I just install I decided not to take any chances and bought the oil additive from the dealership, but grease up first, this little 4 oz bottle set me back 12 bucks. I bought Moble One Synthetic Oil from the local Auto Zone, 15 bucks each bottle and needed two (actually need one and one half bottles). This was the ONLY 75W-140 oil I could find, I could find 85W-140 much cheaper but the manual calls for 75W and again, was going by the book here since I have spent many hours on it so far. I started by pouring the additive into the first bottle and pumping that into the case then adding the second bottle to the required capacity.

 

[jhartney]

I forgot to add.

WEAR OLD CLOTHES!!!!!

This oil is very smelly and does not wash off very well, plan on tossing any garment that this oil gets onto into the trash.

JON

 

[dnj90]

I have the same problem as described above.Had the fluid changed today but the fluid said it had the additive already in it.drove it for a little while and it seems to went a way a little but it is still noticeable.should i have had them add the additive even though it says it's in there?Should I give it more time to "work in"?

 

[jpoprock]

I have a similar thread here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1662262#post1662262

And these guys seem to say that I DON'T need the friction modifier. So, I'm conflicted. Most of you say yes on this thread. If yer using the synthetic Mobil1 fluid at like $16 a bottle, then you don't need it? Or does one put it in either way? I just don't know what to do, but I want to do something soon to see if it works.

A gearhead buddy of mine said that sometimes getting an angle to pour it in is difficult and you usually need to syphon it in or something. Is this true? Thanks! Jason

 

[justforfun]

I brought my explorer to a place that specializes on differentials and driveline. They understand that the dealer or Ford calls for Synthetic oil in the differential, but either the mechanics or engineers of differentials disagree. So the owner strongly disagrees with using syn oil, BUT strongly agrees with using the additive. So I just had the oil change without syn, but with 2 bottles of additive. I haven't really tested it out, but will post in the future if it works. So far so good I could have done the work myself, but i didn't have the proper tools so I paid $84...not too bad

 

[Ross410]

Does anyone know which oil weight I am supposed to use on a 04 XLT? I read here that everyone is using 75w-140, but on my differential casting it says 75w-90. The shuddering is pretty bad when I turn so I think I need to change the oil and add the additive asap. Thanks

 

[jmatters]

Re: Rear end chatter/shudder

My 2002 did the same thing- finally determined from this site that it was the differential. Then, a few years later, it was getting worse, so when I had some work done at a local shop I had them replace the differential fluid. I specifically told them to add the friction modifier- not sure if they did- probably didn't as the noise got worse!!! So I asked my father to add some. That worked well for a while- then got really bad!

So the other day, out of frustration, I did it myself- EXACTLY as Ford recommends. OEM Ford 75W-140 Synthetic differential fluid & 1 4oz. bottle of OEM Ford friction modifier.

It is not too difficult to do- even on your back. NO PUMP OR SIPHON IS NEEDED. Just drop the spare tire and push it aside. Push a 12" piece of rubber hose onto the end of the bottle fish it over the crossbar and into the fill hole, and SQUEEZE. When got I tired of squeezing, I took a wood clamp and let it do the work.

24 hours and a few miles later- the noise is virtually gone!!!!

(Now I am watching it and I think the gasket on the rear cover is leaking- (see my next post).

Jason
Kansas City, Missouri
2002 XLT

 

[gaw]

I have the same probelm on my '03 Explorer. I'm going with the 75w-140, but I need to know if you should put 1 or 2 bottles of the friction modifier.

 

[jmatters]

Check your owner's manual. In my manual, under "capacities" it stated how much to add- which I believe (off the top of my head here) was 4 oz. (1 bottle from Ford is 4 oz.)