2004 Explorer Brake issue

[Frosty21]

I just changed the front brake pads on my moms 2004 Ford Explorer... no problems, tightened everything back up... pumped the brakes and whatnot. All good. i jacked up the rear driver side wheel, removed the wheel, took out the two mounting bolts on the back of the caliper but did not move the caliper because I couldn't figure out how. Anyway, i put the bolts back in and remounted the wheel. Again, all good. Or so i thought. I went to Ops check it through our development. When I started the car, i noticed that the ABS light was on. I let that go for the moment because the brakes were working but i was weary. I got out of the driveway and drove around, driving and stopping, driving and stopping... got back into the driveway, all good. Pulled up to the parking spot, put it in park and applied the parking brake. There was almost no resistance on the pedal. I was like, wtf? so, i pressed the pedal in, put my foot on the brake, put the car in neutral and even with the parking brake "engaged," it drifted backwards, and it was working before. I'm clueless as to what's wrong. Can someone help?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! So basically you replaced the front pads, unbolted the rear caliper bolts (on one side only), and put the bolts back without pulling any pads off or touching anything that would throw off the adjustment of the parking brake? Did you see if the fluid level in the master cylinder is low? Maybe air got into it if the fluid level was low, and the calipers were extended? Sometimes rust from inside of the calipers could get pushed into the master cylinder when you compress the calipers.

 

[Nytroman]

After you finsihed with the brakes did you pump the brake pedal? thats a must

EDIT- my bad i just re-read, possible pinch in the line?

 

[dorman68]

Maybe a coincidence but perhaps something came apart inside the rotors for the parking brake shoes. I suggest looking behing the rear rotors to check if the cables are still attached and if that looks okay pull the rear rotors and check the parking brake shoes and related hardware.

 

[Frosty21]

First post was correct about the rear wheel.

I can see the thing about rust getting pushed into the piston, but what would that entail? Any extra maintenance?

I'm about to go check brake fluid level and whatnot. Oh, and she tried to start the car this morning after it sat overnight (it started right up last night) but it won't start. Nothing that uses power was left on. Now, you put the key in and turn it to start, and the engine turns over twice and then dies and you can hear the starter rapidly clicking. Probably just a coincidence. This car really isn't a piece of crap. It's just a coincidence that it's happening now. I think it has 110k miles on it

 

[jrford]

Well this is interesting since i replaced all of my pads all the way around and soon, maybe a month or two later, i got an ABS light too...

Best thing and cheapest is to have someone read the ABS code. It will help a lot as there are about 9-11 sensors that can go bad: ABS module, Brake Pressure Transducer, L/R Front wheel sensors, Brake Travel sensor, rear wheel sensor(s), accelerometer, steering wheel rotation, traction control switch. The most common ones are the Rear diff sensor, and if you have it the master cylinder switch, and then the fronts bearings.

to fix it i pulled a C1440 code which turned out to be the sensor on the master cylinder, ‘speed control deactivator’, only a $20 part, has a history of going bad in earlier years. I not sure but it might come with movable pedals. . . .its used to disengage the cruise. Simplest part to replace, only need a pair of vise grips. . . .i just unscrewed it and put the new one on. Didn’t seem to add any air to the brake system even though its opened. .

 

[weewee51]

weewee51

Well this is interesting since i replaced all of my pads all the way around and soon, maybe a month or two later, i got an ABS light too...

Best thing and cheapest is to have someone read the ABS code. It will help a lot as there are about 9-11 sensors that can go bad: ABS module, Brake Pressure Transducer, L/R Front wheel sensors, Brake Travel sensor, rear wheel sensor(s), accelerometer, steering wheel rotation, traction control switch. The most common ones are the Rear diff sensor, and if you have it the master cylinder switch, and then the fronts bearings.

to fix it i pulled a C1440 code which turned out to be the sensor on the master cylinder, ‘speed control deactivator’, only a $20 part, has a history of going bad in earlier years. I not sure but it might come with movable pedals. . . .its used to disengage the cruise. Simplest part to replace, only need a pair of vise grips. . . .i just unscrewed it and put the new one on. Didn’t seem to add any air to the brake system even though its opened. .

did your cruise control also quit working when that switch quit?