2004 Ford Explorer Wont Start Theft Light Blinking rapidly

[dawnsandstaylor]

I own a 2004 ford Explorer. It wasn’t started up for over three months, when decided to start it up; we changed the battery and now it wont start. When the key is to the ON postion the theft light blinks rapidly; no crank, no start; just a tiny click sound in the engine and under the dash. There was a “DOOR” key on there and was put it accidently to start as well. What is the problem?
The a/c compressor is not kicking in, no fuel pump. Tried jump starting starter with screw drive, it just keeps rolling over. Searched the forums and tried all the tricks, 3times key, 8 times etc…nothing works! Help me! What is going on!!!!! I own all 2000 explorers, FIRST TIME 2004.

When the battery cable is put on the dash indicators flicker for 3 second and then go to the position is this normal?
When we press the back window button radio cuts out; when we turn on a/c the entire power is lost.
What is going on! PLEASE HELP!!!

 

[D Hook]

When you replaced the battery, did you replace it with a new battery?

Also, just a suggestion but your post is difficult to read. Don't know what "rolling over" means. And not sure what a "DOOR" key is either. Please try to clarify so others can help you out.

 

[dawnsandstaylor]

2004 Ford Explorer wont start

How the story began……….Went to Ford Explorer, tried turning the ignition; nothing happen. No lights, no sounds from doors, nothing! So we popped the hood and put in another battery. The battery is smaller than the one that was in it. Once the battery was in, noise came on, radio, lights on dash, power locks working, wipers, etc.:

Trying to start vehicle:
Once we put the battery in we attempted to start the vehicle and nothing happens. No “cranking”/starting.. It just sitting there does nothing.

Key stuck
When we tried to take the key out, the key won’t come out unless with take the negative cable off battery. We then discovered that you had to play with the shift in order for it to go directly in park. So that problem was solved.

Second Attempt:
This didn’t help, vehicle still wouldn’t start. We tried disconnecting battery and leaving key in; still no turning over, cranking, however you wish to call it.

Things we noticed:
1. When the key is to on Position, the theft light flashes rapidly. After five minutes with key in the on position light goes off. After we try to start vehicle again, lights comes back on.

2. When the vehicle is in on position when we turn the a/c on, the vehicle power shuts off. This means the dash board completely. Once the a/c goes off the dash board lights back up and gauges return to normal.

3. The a/c is on but no air is coming out.

4. Fuel pump is not running; no power

5. When we mess around with the window (going up and down) Radio blinks in and out.


Things to consider.
1. The vehicle hasn’t been started in over four months before battery replaced.
2. The copied no chip key was put in, trying to start it.
3. There is a click sound from hood
4. There is a click sound from under the driver’s wheel…..
5. We tried jump starting from starter; just keeps rolling over.

 

[nida.dilo]

starting issue

Hi,
Did you figure out what was the issue? I am having exactly the same issue.

 

[Bottom Line]

I had the identical problem. The key needed to be reprogrammed. Can tow it to dealer and they will do it. $$$ I called a local locksmith who advertised they could reprogram at my home. He came out, hooked up his computer and 20 minutes later everthing was fine. $100.

 

[Number4]

Two things, (I realize the thread is "old") you have to have an active key, the system has to be disarmed.

Sounds like there isn't a proper key in the equation. This is your no deal moment.

Another thing is that the fob isn't synced and the alarm hasn't been deactivated. Perform the fob sync procedure, then disarm the anti theft system with it.

Based in the info given though, the op is trying to start a car with a non programmed key. That just isn't going to work.

Would be nice to hear the outcome.

 

[nida.dilo]

Both keys used to work till the battery died and I replaced it and now no crank no start.

 

[nida.dilo]

Bottom line: what is the odd that both keys lost programming? That is the puzzle. In addition I had the same issue few months ago and towed it to a local mechanic; he said that all he did was recharge the battery and it started.
The both time issue started after a cold weather and low battery power.

 

[ripster1]

Another thing to check is your starter connection. Had the same happen about a year ago. Went to the store and when I came out it would not start. Had full power to lights and radio so I figured it wasn't the battery. After reading about 50 Google pages I came across a post about the starter having less than par connectors. Got under the truck and wiggled the power cable and it broke right off. Held the connector to the terminal and had my son turn the key and she fired right up.

 

[Bottom Line]

When I had the problem I had full battery power (lights, radio, fan, etc.) and didn't get the low battery "clicking" when I tried to start. Just the rapidly blinking alaem light and 1 click under the hood. The locksmith who came out and reprogrammed the keys didn't have a real technical explanation - just "sometimes it happens." But 20 minutes on the computer and I was back in business with the original 2 keys that came with it.

 

[nida.dilo]

When I jump the starter it spins fine. Hence I guess its more on the programming of the keys.
Also it flashes rapidly for 1min and then slows down. After about 4mins it stops flashing. It always flashes in the run position.
So I m guessing keys then?

 

[Number4]

My fobs lost their connection after my Ex sat without power for 4 months. The key didn't. I'd say this is most odd. The Bottom_Line answer might be your only route (mobile locksmith.) Keep us informed.

 

[nida.dilo]

I have it towed to the dealer. Will update you tomorrow.

 

[nida.dilo]

Initially they said bad transponder and replaced it for 365. They later called and said still no luck and their educated guess is to replace the pcm for 2500$.they said their computer will not talk to the pcm.
I told them to put it together and I will have it towed away.
Not sure what to do as the same issue happened before and it was only boost issue.
Also there is a remote starter in it, could that be causing it.

 

[nida.dilo]

anyone with ideas/help?

 

[Number4]

Number 1, get a refund for the work the dealer did that didn't fix the issue. They don't get to play the guessing game. Remote starter, as in an aftermarket alarm? Aftermarket either way? I'd bet that's the issue.