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2005 XLT (My build and question thread)

Joined
April 14, 2014
Messages
21
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City, State
Louisville Ky
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Sport Trac
Okay, so on 4/14/14 I purchased this 2005 Sport Trac XLT Premium.
120,000 Miles
Auto Trans
4X2

Only Maintenance records I have are that it just got
wheel bearings
brakes (calipers,rotors,pads)
ABS unit
alignment
New Toyo Open Country tires with a balance

Now this is my first truck, so my main goal and use for this vehicle is hauling materials for the house and some camping etc. no major wheeling or mud. just basic trails to and from sights.

What maintenance should I have on my radar to complete?
I am hearing a slight whine under acceleration from the rear diff maybe. (fluid change?)

idle seems a little rough not too bad but not the smoothest. (Tune up and seafoam? maybe a k&N Filter?)

Slight belt squeak in front, this appears to be newer than 120k miles, noise coming from idler pulley i think. should it be greased on backside?

There is some noise coming from engine rear at times, do these have same timing chain noise as 4.0 rangers did in 01-03?

Finally when should shocks be replaced? they seem to thud a little like there are not resisting as much as they should.

Anything else?

and here is a starting pic of her first time in the driveway.

B47BA8D6-4598-4910-B0EC-40C8175BAF89_zpshtgmopiv.jpg


And here is my old car 2001 Ford Focus ZX3

4de46a19.jpg
 



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I had a squeak in the belt area a month ago or so. It really is hard to tell where the noise is coming from with an un trained ear. I thought mine was coming from the idle pulley. Then I really examined everything in motion and noticed the belt tensioner had excessive play. I asked around if that was normal and was told that some play/give is normal but not a lot so I decided I'll try it. Replaced the belt tensioner and the squeak was gone. I changed the belt at the same time too.
Check to see if you still have original spark wires, might be good to change.
timing chain issues…from what I read. But was also told the noise or rattle will sound like a diesel and you would really know if that was your problem. It's just what I have read and could be wrong.
 






The rattle is not that bad. Could be coming from suspension too or something else like a heat shield loose. Don't know yet.
 






The 4x4s eat ball joints so give the front end a good look. I looked at three before buying one and all of them either needed ball joints or just had them replaced.

The rocker panel covers keep mud and water in so check the rockers as well.
 






okay, mine isnt a 4x4 same problem?

actually my wifes sound the same way on her 2003 escape. need to get them looked at too
 






Well today on the way to work the brakes went out while i was on the highway and needed to stop. the dealer had just replaced them. luckily i was able to get into emergency lane and use ebrake to slow down.

got to the the office ( was only 1 mile away) and the passenger front caliper ( new 7 days ago) has locked up and there is a line broke ( fluid everywhere) and the pad is gone


Dealer has a wrecker coming to get the truck to take it back and fix it.
 






Wow, that's scary. Make sure they replace the rotor, too, at their expense.
 






They replaced the following:
Both Calipers
Both Rotors
Pads
Passenger wheel and tire (caliper tore them up them when coming off at 60 mph)
break lines with soft SS coated ones
Tie Rod ( which solved my noise problem)
aligned it


they spent 1200 in parts alone
plus they towed it in
plus they gave me a rental car for a week and paid for the gas.


Next I want to change my rear diff fluid.
it wines when its under acceleration. what fluid is recommended I have the XLT Premium 2WD model

I want it to be quiet


After that I would like to track down what almost sounds like chain rattle coming from rear of the motor.
 












Okay next issue.

Coolant leak. Appears to be coming from large coolant line that goes to the water pump. Not loosing much kind of a pinhole leak. What is best way to confirm location of the leak?
 






If I use a pressure texter does the car need to be warm so thermostat isn't a factor?
 






They replaced the following:
Both Calipers
Both Rotors
Pads
Passenger wheel and tire (caliper tore them up them when coming off at 60 mph)
break lines with soft SS coated ones
Tie Rod ( which solved my noise problem)
aligned it


they spent 1200 in parts alone
plus they towed it in
plus they gave me a rental car for a week and paid for the gas.


Next I want to change my rear diff fluid.
it wines when its under acceleration. what fluid is recommended I have the XLT Premium 2WD model

I want it to be quiet


After that I would like to track down what almost sounds like chain rattle coming from rear of the motor.

What diff do you have? Check the tag on the diff. I have an 03 Premium with 4.10 Limited-slip gears. Your only options are 3.73 open or LS, and 4.10 open or LS. The open or LS will determine what fluid to use and if you need the special friction modifier for the gears. It is supposed to be a non-servicing thing though unless the pumpkin is leaking.
 






What diff do you have? Check the tag on the diff. I have an 03 Premium with 4.10 Limited-slip gears. Your only options are 3.73 open or LS, and 4.10 open or LS. The open or LS will determine what fluid to use and if you need the special friction modifier for the gears. It is supposed to be a non-servicing thing though unless the pumpkin is leaking.

Not trying to hi jack but can you tell me the difference between the stock options. 3.73 vs 4.10 and open vs ls
The higher gear allows bigger tires? Any other advantage, towing
I thought the open vs ls has to do with either both tires spinning together or individually? And if you go 4x4 you better benefit from spinning together?
 






The 4.10 gears are the gears to have if you want to tow although its not exactly a powerhouse.. Fully set up with an aux trans cooler and 4.10 gears the rig is still limited to 5000 pounds. The limited slip part is just like you said. Under low traction both wheels will turn instead of the infamous one wheel peel. With the 4.10 gears you will accelerate a little quicker, but sacrifice a little gas mileage because the rpms will always be higher at a given speed. I still am happy to have these gears because the rig is slow enough as it is...
 






Okay back to the E85, it is now almost $1 cheaper here in Louisville now and i am really thinking of trying it. My gas door says I can use it. is there anything I need to do to be sure and also anything i need to do to prepare to use it. I know Mpg may go down but want to try a tank to see how it does. I spend a lot of time in traffic so i am not getting great mileage anyway,
 






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