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2007 Explorer 4.6L no spark

1964Comet

Member
Joined
March 7, 2017
Messages
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City, State
Norfork, AR
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer XLT
I have a 2007 Explorer XLT with a 4.6L & it currently has no spark, so I am looking for ideas on what to check next. Here is an overview of the problem & what I have done so far:

-Problem started after sitting for 2 weeks during severe cold weather, battery was disconnected during this time so no codes are present when scanned
-Truck ran normal before being parked, no previous starting or running issues
-Engine cranks normally but will not start
-Checked all of the fuses & relays in the engine & under-dash panels
-Fuel pressure is good at around 41 psi
-Replaced the fuel filter
-Replaced the crank sensor
-Injectors are receiving a pulse (checked with noid light)
-There is no spark at any of the plugs (checked with spark tester)

What should I check next? Thanks in advance for any input or help! -Jim
 



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Not run into that problem but have you confirmed this on more than one Coil? Was it running fine before, and anything changed since?
 






I have confirmed that there is no spark out of any of the coils, & no signal to the plugs going to the coils. Truck was running perfectly before being parked & nothing was changed or done prior to the no spark condition.
 






Start from basic, are there any codes. Can be difficult if you don't have a code reader there. Have you tried your other ignitions key. I maybe a security lockout or immobilizer if equipped activating. Try Neutral if Park don't work (transmission switch failure or adjustment off).

Do dash lights symbols come on with the ignition ON position. Corroded ground under the hood maybe if the PCM is not working. The list can go on but testing a power tests may also need to be done with a meter.
 






Thanks for the replies so far.

There are no codes, I did hook it up to a code reader but I disconnected the battery when I parked it last because I knew it would be sitting (this is not my main vehicle), so if there were codes they are gone now. The truck was running perfectly when parked, no check engine light, etc.

When the key is in the ON position, the check engine light, brake light, battery light & oil light are solid, all of the lights go out when cranking. I know it's not in anti-theft mode, & I only have one key for it.

I have tried starting it in neutral to try & rule out the neutral safety switch.

No corrosion on the battery/terminals or going down inside of the wires under the insulation. I have also tried a new battery from another vehicle with no change.
 






Something inhibiting the PCM I believe it masters the ignition system. Maybe codes after a few attempts then. Put a battery charge on it if its sitting drawing that much power. It shouldn't even for 3 week or so it should crank away without an effort. Maybe some engine expert will have some other insite on the V8.

Add the info to a signature as we have to start from the top now see see what you have. I have mine showing in the body of the text as its easier to read here.

Cheers and good luck.
 






Does the fuel inertia switch (or whatever the exact name is) that is in the passenger kick panel turn off spark too? I thought it turned off fuel but maybe spark too? You could try pushing the button, good luck
 






Makes sense, didn't think he hit anything unless he had a wild passenger.... LOL
 






It cranks over fine, I only disconnected the battery out of habit, I do it with all of my vehicles when I don't know when I will be driving them again.

I did try resetting the inertia switch, however the fuel pump & injectors are working & I think the inertia switch would kill those?

I also read that bad crank/cam sensors would kill the spark & injectors, but I am getting a pulse out of the injectors. I also checked & replaced the crank sensor since I knew that was a common problem & the part was inexpensive & easy to change.

I will look into tests to diagnose issues with the PCM. Thanks again for your input! -Jim
 






Do you have an aftermarket remote starter or alarm ? Those can create havoc in the ignition system.
 






Got any mice around There?
Would definitely spend some time looking at the wiring.

While you're doing that I'm off to figure out why my tablet insisted on capitalizing there. I changed it multiple times.
 






Got any mice around there?

Fixed it. Hope you get your problem resolved also.
 






No aftermarket remote start or alarm but I live in the country so I know there are mice around, I'll make sure I look over the wiring really closely. Thanks! -Jim
 






When you checked for codes, did you see a P1000 code?
 






There were no codes present because the battery had been disconnected. -Jim
 






Did the scan tool communicate with the PCM? There should be a code P1000 present to indicate a battery disconnect or clearing codes using a diagnostic tool and all I/m monitors will show not ready until a couple of drive cycles .
 






The codes are still there. You just need to use better scanner.
I downloaded forscan onto my laptop, and see old codes even if the CEL is off and my scanner shows no codes.

When I was in similar situation, I just went to Ford at the end of my frustration, and said I would pay for up to 2 hrs of diagnostic time, no repair.
I knew my problem withing 45 minutes.
They may figure out your problem quicker then you think.
 






Thanks for the info, I will see if I can find any codes with a better scanner & report if I find anything.
 






Check fuse #43 (light blue 15 amp) in the battery junction box. Big black box behind battery. This is the power supply from the PCM to all of the cops.

I just pulled this fuse in mine and it would crank but not fire.
 



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Thanks for the info Bill, however I already checked that fuse & it looked good. I also replaced that fuse with a new one just in case there was something wrong with it that I couldn't see, & no change.

I appreciate everyone's input so far, keep the ideas coming! Thanks -Jim
 






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