2008 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V8 With 160k thinking of purchasing.

[B Baker]

I'm interested in purchasing a 2008 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V8 With 160k miles on it. It's immaculate and in pretty good shape. I test drove a 2009 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer but V6 with 116k both are immaculate but from a few things I've seen on here the V8 is best. I'm thinking that way anyway because just seemed a little smoother to me. Plus it's $2000 Less. Both have good Carfax maintenance. Just asking I know you guys are more smarter than me. I have a 98 now AWD 5.0 and God knows how many Miles are on it the Speedometer is broke. My Daughter drives that all the time now. Been a Great Vehicle.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

What price are they asking for the 2008? Tires good, interior, maintenance records? Did you listen to the engine on cold start up?

 

[94Eddie]

What state(s) does the Carfax show where it has spent its time? What maintenance was performed? Any accidents reported? How many owners has it had? Are there any repair/maintenance receipts?

 

[B Baker]

What state(s) does the Carfax show where it has spent its time? What maintenance was performed? Any accidents reported? How many owners has it had? Are there any repair/maintenance receipts?

It said NJ, MD and VA. Which VA is where I'm at. All maintenance on the Carfax like 15000 Mile, 30000 Mile so on and Oil changes, Brake serviced. No Accidents. Not even hardly a ding. Leather, towing PKG, no tears not even a stain.

 

[Explorer_PL]

If it's nice and not rusty, I would
180k does not mean much, it's all who and how maintained it.
We used to take our 06 v8 with 300k across few states towing campers, and I never worried much.
Check the rear rockers for rust.
Surface rust on the frame is normal.
If the price is good, I'd go for it.

 

[94Eddie]

It said NJ, MD and VA. Which VA is where I'm at. All maintenance on the Carfax like 15000 Mile, 30000 Mile so on and Oil changes, Brake serviced. No Accidents. Not even hardly a ding. Leather, towing PKG, no tears not even a stain.

If it runs well, shifts smoothly, all options work etc. and the price is right go for it. Look really hard around the plastic parts of the radiator for hairline cracks and dried coolant. The radiators on these models can have issues. Crawl under it and look for excessive rust, fluid leaks, rubber boot deterioration in the drive train and steering components. Look under the oil cap for and milky substance. If you buy it the first thing I would do is a transmission pan drop, install a new filter, refill and drain/refill the transfer case (assuming it is 4WD). Then drop the pan again within 5k miles and refill. This will exchange about 75%-80% of the old fluid. Do a pan drop, filter change and drain/refill the transfer every 40k miles. Then systematically replace all the other fluids in the differentials, cooling system, brake system and power steering. Also, you might want to run Seafoam in the crankcase for the last 200 miles before an oil change. This will help to remove any deposits and keep oil passages open to allow proper lubrication. I do this since I don't know the maintenance history of my Mountaineer over its first 100k miles. These maintenance items will go a long way in keeping it reliable and repairs to a minimum as you rack up the miles. Just know that buying a vehicle with 160k miles will very likely need repairs like wheel bearings, ball joints etc. if these things haven't already been replaced. With good maintenance and a few repairs it could last you to 300k miles, or more.