2012 xlt no wipers

[AlexBanich]

Well out driving around and it hit again. Don't know what the problem is but I'm assuming it got warm enough out to not be consistent.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Don't know how well verse you are in wiring diagrams but take a look at this:

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=874994

I would put the wipers on a higher speed and try wiggling the connector at the motor and see if it changes anything.

 

[Sixonemale]

Well out driving around and it hit again. Don't know what the problem is but I'm assuming it got warm enough out to not be consistent.

I assume that you switched out relays temporarily when you initially checked the relay and if so, I would probably replace the relay. If you switched them permanently then disregard this post.

As posted previously, I had the exact same problem and finally found a visible hole in the relay. I'm simply wondering, although usually binary in nature, if the relay or where it sits is the culprit.

 

[AlexBanich]

I never swapped the relays back I left them swapped so I know that's not a problem.

 

[AlexBanich]

Don't know how well verse you are in wiring diagrams but take a look at this:

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=874994

I would put the wipers on a higher speed and try wiggling the connector at the motor and see if it changes anything.

I'm not a pro at wiring diagrams but I'm familiar I will review this and see if I can locate anything more. Thanks for this info!

 

[AlexBanich]

Don't know how well verse you are in wiring diagrams but take a look at this:

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=874994

I would put the wipers on a higher speed and try wiggling the connector at the motor and see if it changes anything.

I just went back and checked the power to the plug and it's not registering any power so I'm assuming now that it's before the wiper motor..... also I tried opening your wiring diagram and for some reason I couldn't get it to open. I'll try on the home computer later.

 

[sheltonfilms]

And the key was on when you checked?

 

[AlexBanich]

yes the key was on I made sure to do it twice to verify my findings.

 

[AlexBanich]

And the key was on when you checked?

Now according to your wiring diagram (from what I could interpret) the next place the power would come from would be to the under the hood fuse box. I checked that fuse by replacing it with another known working one and that didn't change anything..... am I correct in assuming that is the next point down the line?

 

[AlexBanich]

where does the wiper relay ground out at? I've read where that has been a problem.

 

[sheltonfilms]

where does the wiper relay ground out at? I've read where that has been a problem.

The ground itself (G103)? It is right in front of the engine bay fuse box.

I would try swapping relays with another one like blower motor or starter relay and see if it changes.

ALSO:

Pull the front wiper relay and check the male blades for "drag" marks cause by the female terminals in the fuse box. See if all drag marks are the same. If one looks minor or no mark at all you may have a spread female terminal in the fuse box.

 

[AlexBanich]

The ground itself (G103)? It is right in front of the engine bay fuse box.

I would try swapping relays with another one like blower motor or starter relay and see if it changes.

ALSO:

Pull the front wiper relay and check the male blades for "drag" marks cause by the female terminals in the fuse box. See if all drag marks are the same. If one looks minor or no mark at all you may have a spread female terminal in the fuse box.

OK I figured the ground was the one on the wheel well right there but wanted to make sure. Yesterday when checking fuses and relays I noticed that the other relay associated with this circuit was changed also (the font color is brighter). I'm assuming that it's bent female connectors like you stated, a bad ground or a bad body control module. I'm going to do some more testing to try and isolate it. I figure I can test the power at the fuse (which will tell me if it's before or after the fuse box) then both relays. My only worry is that in the course of my testing the circuit will decide to work and I'll get a false positive. Well wish me luck! Will probably have a report by lunch time.

 

[AlexBanich]

So I metered the fuse coming in to the front wiper relay and its 11.67v. I then metered the voltage in to the front wiper relay and got 11.67v on only one power in point. I'm going to move on to the Body Control Module Side of this circuit. I'm thinking that the power in to the one side of the relay must be the issue..... Well I went out and I tracked down the Run relay fuse under the dash and that is my problem. I was counting them out to full the fuse to meter it and when I touched it I heard it make contact and the wipers went on!!! I'm going to replace that complete fuse box if its not too outrageous. Reason being is that I have that interior light fuse issue and poking around I found other fuses that were loose. So does anybody know how hard it is to replace that fuse box? It looks mostly just plug and play. Anybody know or should I make a new thread? THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP PEOPLE!!! LOOKS LIKE YOU GUYS SAVED ME A TON OF MONEY!!

 

[AlexBanich]

So the Ford garage that worked on this when it WAS IN WARRANTY did this as their way of fixing the issue....

The whole fuse box requires replacement cause its not just this fuse that has this problem....

 

[reserved50]

someone installed a "fuse tap" and stretched the terminals or jammed a probe in there to test them improperly, buy another tap for now? Sometimes you can bend them back but disconnect the battery first
http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/images/06efc079-1931-4b04-84a8-f4cbf5fe3e31.JPG

 

[sheltonfilms]

If you're talking about the fuse box under the dash it's a few connectors but you will have to have the new unit reflashed to your vehicles parameters.

 

[peterk9]

So I metered the fuse coming in to the front wiper relay and its 11.67v. I then metered the voltage in to the front wiper relay and got 11.67v on only one power in point. I'm going to move on to the Body Control Module Side of this circuit. I'm thinking that the power in to the one side of the relay must be the issue..... Well I went out and I tracked down the Run relay fuse under the dash and that is my problem. I was counting them out to full the fuse to meter it and when I touched it I heard it make contact and the wipers went on!!! I'm going to replace that complete fuse box if its not too outrageous. Reason being is that I have that interior light fuse issue and poking around I found other fuses that were loose. So does anybody know how hard it is to replace that fuse box? It looks mostly just plug and play. Anybody know or should I make a new thread? THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP PEOPLE!!! LOOKS LIKE YOU GUYS SAVED ME A TON OF MONEY!!

If you plan to replace the fuse box, please start a new thread. I don't believe anyone has replaced one on their Explorer before so you'll be in 'unchartered waters'. I don't know what the back of the box looks like but if the one in the engine bay is more accessible it may give you an idea assuming they are both connected the same way. Good luck.

Peter

 

[AlexBanich]

someone installed a "fuse tap" and stretched the terminals or jammed a probe in there to test them improperly, buy another tap for now? Sometimes you can bend them back but disconnect the battery first
http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/images/06efc079-1931-4b04-84a8-f4cbf5fe3e31.JPG

It's right behind a relay so with like a plastic seat around it, so getting at it to attempt to bend the prongs seems like an impossibility. I'm going to start a new thread on the fuse box swap idea. Once again a major thanks to all of you for your help. I couldn't have done it without the input of this forum.

 

[sheltonfilms]

It's right behind a relay so with like a plastic seat around it, so getting at it to attempt to bend the prongs seems like an impossibility. I'm going to start a new thread on the fuse box swap idea. Once again a major thanks to all of you for your help. I couldn't have done it without the input of this forum.

I've never seen one outside of a car but i have seen other OEMs versions. The are all pretty much made by just a handful of suppliers (delphi, continental, etc). Its a circuit board with fuse terminals soldered to the board. The board is encase in a two part box. Depending on the supplier the box can be easily opened to fully expose the terminals that you need to bend.

This is your only option for a DIY fix.

Now tell me about you taking your vehicle in for warranty work. Was it for this very issue? Do you have paperwork showing it? If so you maybe able to get the dealership to replace the BCM for free. I know I would be raising hell if this was their fix.

 

[AlexBanich]

Now tell me about you taking your vehicle in for warranty work. Was it for this very issue? Do you have paperwork showing it? If so you maybe able to get the dealership to replace the BCM for free. I know I would be raising hell if this was their fix.

I only have my suspicions. I bought this vehicle with 40k on it so it was just outside the bumper to bumper. I'm the third owner so my suspicion is that it was either just before warranty expire that a dealer didn't want to pay or just after and the owner didn't want to pay. If the story I got of who the owner was before me is true then the average miles would have been putting this problem roughly 32k miles due the cold weather causing the problem to show. At that mileage who wouldn't use the warranty? I put in an inquiry in to ford to see if they have records. I know they have all your data at the dealer specivic so we will see. If at worst if they do find a dealer did it, and they won't honor some kind of make it right, I just hope the dirty dealer gets some kind of ford reprimand. Half assing a fix like this could have caused a severe injury.