2014 New battery no start

[peterk9]

................................................................, with the keyless system it is not allowing the starter to continuously crank.

Not ever having had a starting issue, I wasn't aware of this.

Peter

 

[thinkjerm]

I second @thinkjerm

If you have jumper cables, run one from battery to starter and tap it on the terminal to see if you can manually spin the starter.
If it spins, starter is ok (good news). If it doesn't, bad news.
If it does spin, what I would do next it tap the jumper cable to the input to the solenoid. If starter runs then, then you know the starter is all good.

If you do these, let us know the results and let's go from there

Based on some incorrect local advice I went ahead and just replaced the starter with a new one. Obviously, it didn't solve the issue but I can at least now rule that out.

I've been using a 12 gauge wire on the positive inputs of the relay and it has been starting. I'm starting to think there is a parasitic draw which is depleting the battery and stressing the system to the point that the relay won't engage.

 

[stuarto]

Based on some incorrect local advice I went ahead and just replaced the starter with a new one. Obviously, it didn't solve the issue but I can at least now rule that out.

I've been using a 12 gauge wire on the positive inputs of the relay and it has been starting. I'm starting to think there is a parasitic draw which is depleting the battery and stressing the system to the point that the relay won't engage.

To not have enough juice in the battery to even engage the relay, you would need to be close to depleted...I wouldn't jump to this conclusion too quickly.
If you want to test your theory, disconnect battery overnight and then try to start in the morning.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Hopefully you bought an expensive starter, or that might be an issue you are re-tacking in a few months.

 

[thinkjerm]

Sorry for the delay in updating everyone.

I plugged FOrscan in and checked for DTC but didn't find any. I then ran through all of the modules and performed the self test. The only failure was in the BCM saying that the puddle light had an open ground. Both of my mirror puddle lights work so I am not sure why I am getting that message.

I'm now at the point where I'm ready to replace my alternator. When the alternator was connected I did have continuity between the positive alternator terminal and the battery negative cable. Interestingly enough I continue to have continuity even with the alternator completely disconnected.

I have also tried starting the vehicle with the alternator disconnected and I am still getting the same .5 second starting "thud". At this point I think I should just replace the PCM/ECU.

I'll try and keep everyone updated as I progress.

 

[thinkjerm]

Sorry for the delay in updating everyone.

I plugged FOrscan in and checked for DTC but didn't find any. I then ran through all of the modules and performed the self test. The only failure was in the BCM saying that the puddle light had an open ground. Both of my mirror puddle lights work so I am not sure why I am getting that message.

I'm now at the point where I'm ready to replace my alternator. When the alternator was connected I did have continuity between the positive alternator terminal and the battery negative cable. Interestingly enough I continue to have continuity even with the alternator completely disconnected.

I have also tried starting the vehicle with the alternator disconnected and I am still getting the same .5 second starting "thud". At this point I think I should just replace the PCM/ECU.

I'll try and keep everyone updated as I progress.

Finally got a new ECU to install. I am having trouble programming nthe key to the ECU but I am now able to activate the fuel pump through FOrscan and I can start the vehicle by bypassing the starting relay without having to jump start it.

Hopefully once I get the keys programmed I'll be back on the road.

 

[thinkjerm]

Finally got a new ECU to install. I am having trouble programming nthe key to the ECU but I am now able to activate the fuel pump through FOrscan and I can start the vehicle by bypassing the starting relay without having to jump start it.

Hopefully once I get the keys programmed I'll be back on the road.

After letting the vehicle sit overnight it seems that the key program finished writing the information to the modules. Vehicle fires right up. Turns out an ECU can go bad in 85,000 miles with no other indicator of their being an issue.