3 questions 93 Ranger 4.0

[rkbonds1]

I recently purchased a 93 super cab ranger with 7 inches of lift and 35 inch tires 4.0 auto. The questions I have are:

1.What could be causing gas mileage to be 5 mpg? And what can I do to help it get better? (I know it should be getting much better just not sure where to start looking for the solution)

2. When I turn the ignition switch off it takes 20-30 seconds before the engine shuts off. (electrical's cut off and it's not dieseling runs normal it's like it doesn't realize the key is off for the 20-30 seconds) What would cause this?

3. When I first take off the truck has a vibration until 15 mph then it goes away and is smooth through the rest of the speed range it's just every time I take off?

Thanks for any and all help in solving these problems.

 

[mr cribb]

I recently purchased a 93 super cab ranger with 7 inches of lift and 35 inch tires 4.0 auto. The questions I have are:

1.What could be causing gas mileage to be 5 mpg? And what can I do to help it get better? (I know it should be getting much better just not sure where to start looking for the solution)

2. When I turn the ignition switch off it takes 20-30 seconds before the engine shuts off. (electrical's cut off and it's not dieseling runs normal it's like it doesn't realize the key is off for the 20-30 seconds) What would cause this?

3. When I first take off the truck has a vibration until 15 mph then it goes away and is smooth through the rest of the speed range it's just every time I take off?

Thanks for any and all help in solving these problems.

1) wow.... gearing possibly, or the 35" tall tires, maybe something as stupid as a sensor or something

2) sounds like ignition switch is bad

3) sounds like the is transmission shuddering. With the lift and tires it may be killing the auto trans.... which is the weakest link of an explorer or ranger.

I'm no expert and my answers may not be 100% correct but prob somewhere along the lines of somewhat accurate

 

[FIND]

(1) Check engine light on? Do you hear any whistling sounds coming from the engine bay? Does your tailpipe have excessive carbon buildup? Does your exhaust smell extra gassy? Could be the combination of gearing/lift/tires too as Mr Cribb suggested

(2) Ignition switch is probably bad.

(3) Vibration could be related to your fuel mileage concern.

 

[RangerX]

I recently purchased a 93 super cab ranger with 7 inches of lift and 35 inch tires 4.0 auto. The questions I have are:

1.What could be causing gas mileage to be 5 mpg? And what can I do to help it get better? (I know it should be getting much better just not sure where to start looking for the solution)

Maybe your odo/speedo was never corrected for the larger tires, and (you didn't mention but) possible gear change. That would make your calculations show poor mileage, when I might actually be better?

 

[rkbonds1]

I know it was regeared and I know the speedo was corrected and shows accurate now. I have no idea what the gear ratio is. I know it has plenty of power seems like it's close to what it would be from the factory though (based off take off and passing gear). Check engine light just came on today guessing maybe o2 sensor exhaust is black in the pipe and the fact that it didn't immediately come back on when I restarted the truck but, did after 10 min of driving. No whistling sound from anywhere. Does seem to be running rich exhaust is gassy.

 

[mr cribb]

how many miles (approx) are on the truck?

could have a leaking injector

could be a sensor

could be the cat is stopped or stopping up

might be a combination of all the above

because even with the lift and tires and the crappy a4ld trans, you should get 10-12 mpg not 5.

 

[FIND]

Find out why your check engine light is on. Here is the method for checking. Sometimes a bad O2 sensor won't throw a code on an EEC-IV vehicle, but if it is the original O2 sensor for your truck, there is a pretty high liklihood it is bad or going bad, so you might just want to replace it just for funsies.

 

[rkbonds1]

The truck has 113k is what I was told by the second owner.

Going to try and pull codes today or tomorrow one just as soon as I have a minute to do it. Truck will sit where it is until then.

Will also try and see if I can tell if the exhaust is weak (stopped up or stopping up) and I'll get back with the results on all my findings.

 

[rkbonds1]

Here's the results:

The exhaust seems to be flowing freely and here are the codes that I was able to pull.

177 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S

187 Injector pulse width shorter than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) higher than expected

212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault
(This one showed up twice in code readout)

Also had a code 133 show up but cant find it on the link you posted. I did find it in another book for a different Ford 4.0 (van) and it said it was the upper o2 sensor.

So I should replace the o2 sensor(s)? and the MAF. What do I do with code 212?

 

[ZTraz77]

Here's the results:

The exhaust seems to be flowing freely and here are the codes that I was able to pull.

177 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S

187 Injector pulse width shorter than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) higher than expected

212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault
(This one showed up twice in code readout)

Also had a code 133 show up but cant find it on the link you posted. I did find it in another book for a different Ford 4.0 (van) and it said it was the upper o2 sensor.

So I should replace the o2 sensor(s)? and the MAF. What do I do with code 212?

start cheap and work your way up the ladder.. if u just decide to replace both o2 sensors and an maf ur looking at ~$200 but if u try to clean the maf with the maf sensor cleaner and check all electrical connections first it may save u money.. chances are that u may have a bad o2 sensor but it always pays to try the cheap methods and cleaning the maf will benefit u anyway

 

[rkbonds1]

Ok I went through and cleaned the map sensor and both o2 sensors, pulled all spark plugs regapped and cleaned then reinstalled, new air filter reset codes and now it's putting out these codes:

172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S

173 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S

177 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S
183 (M) Fuel system was lean at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S

Also when it first starts flashing it flashes 3 real quick flashes that almost look like one flash then it flashes 33 right after that then starts with the other codes any idea what that is?

I did find out the reason it continues to run after turning off the switch is because the switch is bad. That's minor at this point I need to get it running right first then on to that.

Forgot to mention I drove it 20 miles today it ran great but, tripped the above mentioned codes. I pulled 2 plugs when I got home 1 from each side & both showed to be running slightly lean. Also I could tell gas mileage was up not sure how much but every bit counts......

 

[HeavyFoot]

Your biggest issue is the tire size. Even with 3.73's(assuming that's what your 93 came with.. Ford also put higher gears in the 4x4's ) you are lugging your motor and transmission badly with 35's. Your transmission will also be constantly shifting trying to keep it going. No one ever stops and thinks just what they are doing by increasing tire size dramatically.

35's will also increase drag, which even with gears your 4.0 will still not be doing so well. Your mileage will still be significantly lower than a stock truck even with gears due the increased drag. The only exceptions I've ever seen to this are manual trucks. to I was very happy with 35's... on a full size Suburban with 4.88's and a TBI 350 that made 300 ft lbs.

Either way.. I'd throw some stock sized tires on until you can regear for your transmission's sake if anything else and add a good cooler. Quickest way to smoke an auto trans is to lug it over long periods with heavy and tall tires. Lugging and constant shifting causes massive heat build up, and heat nukes transmissions.

As far as your engine issues, there is some great advice here that I'd also take

 

[rkbonds1]

HeavyFoot, the truck has been regeared I just don't know what the ratio is. The transmission shifts normally like it should, it's not shifting in and out irregularly and crusing in overdrive at 55 it's turning 1700 rpm's.

The engine stuff I'm working on I just ordered 2 o2 sensors this morning and hope to get them in as soon as they arrive.

I appreciate everyone's help and ideas in getting my truck streetable again and getting the gas mileage under control.

 

[tweakedlogic]

O2 sensors are 60k service items. Change them. Bad o2 sensors can cause other codes to trip. And with four codes showing, you should change them. Get an o2 sensor socket. I don't know how much they are @ auto stores, but my snapon was worth every penny.

 

[HeavyFoot]

HeavyFoot, the truck has been regeared I just don't know what the ratio is. The transmission shifts normally like it should, it's not shifting in and out irregularly and crusing in overdrive at 55 it's turning 1700 rpm's.

The engine stuff I'm working on I just ordered 2 o2 sensors this morning and hope to get them in as soon as they arrive.

I appreciate everyone's help and ideas in getting my truck streetable again and getting the gas mileage under control.

Sounds like you've got 4.11's then which is a bonus. 4.56's would be ideal, but 4.11's will keep you out of trouble. Get a trans cooler

I still wouldn't expect more than 13-14 at the most with it running good.. though that's a huge improvement over the 5mpg you're getting now. The additional unsprung mass of the tires really hurts mileage.

 

[rkbonds1]

I already have an o2 socket and I agree well worth the money.

Already have a heavy duty trans cooler in place with an electric fan and 13-14 would be great compared to what it's getting now, and I could live with that until tax season when I plan on removing the body lift and down sizing to 33's which was what we were wanting to get into in the first place. This truck was just to good of a deal to pass up on with the mileage and condition of the truck. It just had a few things neglected being mainly someone else's play toy.......

 

[rkbonds1]

One more question while I wait on my o2 sensors to come in. Both of my lower leaf springs have twisted (1 on each side of the truck) what would cause this, and what would be the best way to keep it from happening again?

 

[ranger-93]

theres usually little brackets that make a square form around the leaf pack, it looks like yours are gone. take a hammer to hit them back in place and find the little bracket from an auto place or junkyard.

 

[4x4junkie]

Thread two nuts with a hardened washer between them down the U-bolt and tighten them right alongside the leaf. The leaf will then butt up against the washer and keep it from splaying outward like that.


As for your gears, 4.88:1 is what would be ideal for 35" tires with the 4.0L engine.
I would jack one side up and do a check for what ratio is in there (if it's a std open diff or limited slip, spin the one tire TWO full revolutions while counting the driveshaft turns. 3¾ driveshaft turns = 3.73, 4.1 turns = 4.10, 4½ turns = 4.56, ~4¾ turns = 4.88 and so on. If less than 4.56, then that's going to be part of your mileage issue.

The vibration on takeoff sounds like the classic symptom of too much angle on the stock two-piece rear driveshaft. Swapping over to the one-piece shaft from a '98+ truck should eliminate the vibration entirely.


Looks like that thing's been sunk in a mud bog at least once, judging by all the dried-up dirt & plant matter on top of the rear axle & brake line... If you haven't already, I'd change all the fluids in the drivetrain (while the diff cover is off, another way you could check your gear ratio is by counting the teeth on the ring vs. the pinion gears too).

 

[rkbonds1]

Well o2 sensors in, now I have a knock/tic that I can't make out for sure where it's coming from. Sounds more like from the bottom (knock) than from the top (tick) but, it's not real loud actually sounds more like a tick from the bottom. (It was there before just was more concerned with the o2 sensors).

On a more positive note it is running better and getting better gas mileage still not sure what it is but it's better than it was before.