3 Quick Questions

[Big_Stig352]

1- i live in florida so its warm most of the year, but when it actually gets cold, like tonight, my ex leaks oil from where the engine and transmission bolt together, at least i think its oil. but when its warm there is no fluid leak. anyone know what could be causing this?

2- i just recently got the truck running decent again, and it seems as if the exhaust note has changed to more of a chugging sound, kinda like an old steam train, anybody elses 1st gen sound like this? also im running a ECC from a 92, in my 93.

3-just filled my powersteering fluid with the tranny fluid that ford recommends as per the owners manual (my pen still works that came with the truck). right after i filled it and fired it up, it didnt make that power steering whine, but i drove it tonight and its back, checked the fluid its all still there, anyone know how to stop that god aweful sound??

(also the truck sat for quite awhile untill recently, but it starts no problem)

Thanks So Much Everyone

 

[Anime]

The leak could be from a gasket, either the valve cover gasket, or the rear crankshaft seal, that shrinks when cold and allows some oil past. The best way to trace a leak is to get under there with a flashlight when it's dark, and follow the shiny fluid to it's source. If it just leaks between the engine/transmission and there is no oil on the sides of the engine at all, it's likely the rear main seal.

Be sure you're using a PCM/ECC with the same part number and code as the original. A PCM from a late 92 will work on a 93, but if it's not the same program, it won't run right.

The power steering pump might be going, but you can try swapping out fluid every so often to change it all out eventually, and see if that helps.

 

[Big_Stig352]

its an early 92 ECC, the one that my truck needs is like 400 bucks after the core charge, and are either one of thoes gaskets that important or difficult to change out?

(the EEC in it looks nothing like the one that came with it, i googled the model number of the 92 just to make sure it went to a explorer, and it all came back right, but after i put it in it ran like a champ for a bit, could it be running like that cause it sat for so long? and if so how long till it sorts itself out?)

 

[Anime]

You can get used ECM modules on ebay for cheap, or Rockauto.com has them as well. $400 is crazy, refurbs are only $100-200 at most.

If you want them REALLY cheap, get one on here in the for sale forum from someone parting out their ride, or post up your stock ECM info in the wanted forum and see if anyone else has one to sell.

The valve cover gaskets are a common leak source and are pretty easy to change out if you have the tools and can work under the hood.

The rear main seal would require dropping the transmission and drivetrain. Not for the faint of tool. But it is an important seal, and if it leaks bad, it will only get worse.


With an early 92 ECM in a 93, it is probably running rough because the program is has isn't made for the engine it's attached to. The 91-92 and 93-94 motors had some big differences. It could be some other things too, engines do run rough if they've been sitting and neglected, but if you switch out ECUs that's likely the primary cause.

 

[Big_Stig352]

i looked for the ECC at auto zone and advanced auto and they wanted like 360 somthing, im pretty good fixing things if i know whats wrong with it. i will deffinitly take your advice thank you so much.

 

[Big_Stig352]

so i was driving today, and for some reason randomly, the engine just stops for a second, and then keeps going. i have plenty of gas. any ideas what that might be?

!!!update!!! - it only seems to happen when im trying to be a jackass, suck as trying to spin the wheels in the grass, ill notice the engine completely stops then jumps to about 3500 then revs right up, another thing i noticed is the speedometor likes to jump, i know at one point i was doing maybe 15-20 and the speedo was bouncing around between 15-45 **** was crazy. any ideas? should i start a new thread for the new problems?

 

[Jason94sport]

The rear main seal would require dropping the transmission and drivetrain. Not for the faint of tool. But it is an important seal, and if it leaks bad, it will only get worse.

This is mainly where mine leaks, & yeah when it's colder it leaks more then when it's warm. Not a DD so I don't bother with it.
The speedo jumping is common. Replace the speedo head & cable going to the speed sensor. Some have lubed the cable real good & had it work. Mine didn't.
1st thing you need to do is make sure you have the proper ECU. That needs to be addressed before you can really troubleshoot any engine/running issues you have. In fact the jumping speedo could be related to that as well.

 

[Anime]

Hesitation could be anything from worn plugs and old wires, to an old fuel filter or just dirty injectors.

Best bet might be to start with a MAF sensor cleaning and checking out the standard maintenance items. If the plugs/wires, air/fuel filters, etc. have never been replaced, now might be a good time.

 

[Big_Stig352]

I Have Replaced Both The Spark Plugs, Wires And Fuel Filter, Whats The Best Thing To Clean The MAF With? I Have Starting Fluid, Not Sure If That Would Work, Also I Havent Changed The Air Filter, But I Did Blow It Out With My Compressor Because It Didnt Look To Old.

 

[Anime]

Precision electronic cleaner is probably the best thing to clean a MAF with, but air intake cleaner or carb cleaner works as well. Starting fluid isn't for cleaning, especially something as delicate and precise as the MAF filament.

Blowing out air filters with compressed air usually ruins them.

What plugs/wires did you use? Cheap ones can give bad results.

 

[Jason94sport]

Blowing out air filters with compressed air usually ruins them.

Any shop I know including many dealers do this with no problems. The air used is not like a pressure cleaner. Usually has the tire filler nozzle on the hose.

 

[Anime]

On some filters, blowing them out can remove some of the larger debris and dislodge dust, sure. But in doing so, the filter element is changed, usually for the worse, with gaps that dust and debris can now get through.

Generally you are better off using a vacuum and sucking up the dirt and dust from the dirty side, as opposed to using compressed air to try and blow off the dirt and dust from the clean side.

Some of the better built filters will survive a 'cleaning', but I would say it's more of a temporary fix, so you can put the filter back in the air cleaner box and drive to the parts store to buy a new one.

Of course, if you get a cotton element filter that's made to be cleaned, that's the way to go, but you don't use compressed air on those at all.

 

[swshawaii]

From the K&N FAQ:

Can I use compressed air to dry the filter faster?

No, this can blow the filter material right out of the wire mesh and ruin the filter. Pick a nice day to clean the filter and let it dry naturally. A low pressure air flow such as from an industrial drying machine or blow dryer will help the filter dry more quickly.

http://www.knfilters.com/faq.htm#19

 

[Big_Stig352]

im not sure exactly the plugs i used, it was the best one (most expensive) one from auto zone that fit the truck, i think its like duracraft platnum or some such sh**, also i got the wires from autozone that are supposedly up to the "OEM specs" of the factory wires, with a lifetime warranty.