33's with 3" torsion twist?

[Blue Steel]

has anybody ever put 33" tires on with a 3" torsion twist on the front? was there any rubbing? i've got a 97 xlt and the rear has shackles and an add a leaf so i know it'll fit in the back, just not sure about the front. thanks for the input everyone.

 

[section525]

Some guy on here had a 4.5" TT.. but he was 2WD. If you're 4X4 then you probably don't want to go higher than 2" with the TT.

But search for "4.5" TT" and you'll probably find pics.

 

[Digger196]

33's will not fit w/o alot of trimming! i mean in the metal and into the finders for the turing. plus the 3" TT will really wear out the joints FAST!

 

[Shagnasty]

I've got the 2wd... Is it particularly rough on anything other than shocks to go up that much?

 

[section525]

Probably harsh on your torsion bars too... Same with alignment...

 

[Alec]

I have ~2.75" TT up front and 4.5" of lift in the rear. But in the front I also have Perry's fiberglass fenders.

Unless you get the fenders, You'll need 5" of lift. I suggest having 2" TT and get the 3" lift spindles. Do an SOA in the rear.

 

[Shagnasty]

Either that or go balls crazy and get a danna44.... I just got a student loan check.... i don't know... I read that a guy got a cheap 4x4 chassis (salvage) and switched the bods....

Alec... c'mon. What would you do. I also have a warranty that I'll have to get around.... and I've got the plastic fender (stock) flares.... so fiberglass would kill that look (unless i remove it all.... jeesh. MUST MOD MY BEOTCH!

Oh yeah... 3.27 gears.... wtf were they ever thinking... or was i thinking!


Oh... anyone know where the best deal on spindles is? I have to take the trunk in tomorrow because I knocked the spindle nut loose.... maybe a sly mechanic and a warranty will pay for the front?

 

[Alec]

If you have a 2wd do the spindles, SOA, and TT. You'll have to cut minimally on the fenders. You'll need new shocks to account for the lift. I think Fabtech has the whole kit: SOA, Spindles, and shocks. You'll want 4.10s, 4.30s, or 4.56s with 33s.

 

[Shagnasty]

might as well lock it then too.... (rear axle)
How much would that hurt gas mileage? (lift and all that)

 

[section525]

I read that a guy got a cheap 4x4 chassis (salvage) and switched the bods....

Damn, that guy must get all the ladies...

 

[Alec]

I avg about 13 city and 18 hwy now.

 

[Shagnasty]

Yea... with booooost and NAWWWWS...... I think i'll average better... so that's cool, about on target with what i get now.

 

[Blue Steel]

do they make the lift spindles for the front end of 4wd explorers? also, i've had the 3" tt lift for just about a year now with no problems, so i guess i'm one of the few lucky ones... knock on wood

 

[Alec]

The lift spindles are only for 2WD X's. If you want more than a TT up front, you have to either get one of the 4" suspension lifts, body lift, or SAS (custom lift).

 

[AdamsGuitar]

Just remember that the more TT you do, the less droop your wheels will have. The TT isn't a substitution for a true suspension lift, as your truck is now just sitting at a different spot in its suspension travel.

 

[Alec]

Alright, I know I may be deemed a heretic for this:

While Adam is mostly right, that the TT basically just changes where your ride height is within the stock suspension travel, there is a catch. I've noticed I do not have significantly less droop now than when I was stock (determined both with offroading and in the shop on a lift). While I don't have exact numbers, the front still droops down a fair amount, even with my 2.5-3" TT. Reasons I think this may have happened: 1) I have the weakest torsion bars in an X. This may let them flex more than the heavier bars and thus droop more. 2) I have longer shocks than stock. After my TT, I noticed my front was bottoming out on my stock length shocks. Now I have Ranchos that extend about 2.5" longer than stock and I don't bottom the shocks out anymore.

 

[Robert]

With everything being stock, the limiting factor in droop is the shocks. Remove the shocks and then the limiting factor becomes the ball joints. With stock length shocks, anything above probably 3" would probably cause the shocks to bottom out frequently. Even at 1 1/2" - 2" I went through upper shock mounts every 6 months or so with my stock length Edelbrock IAS shocks. I don't think longer shocks is necessarily the answer though. You need one with more travel when going up extra high on the torsion twist. I think you said Alec that your longer shocks still don't bottom out under full compression. If that is the case, then whatever combination of length and travel your shocks have would be the best solution. I know if I screwed a 2" shock extension onto the end of my Edelbrocks the shock would bottom out before the rest of the suspension would under compression.

 

[Alec]

The shocks are about 2.5" longer extended and only 1" longer compressed. I don't compress the stock fully before I hit the bumpstop. However, in the rear I extended my bumpstops as to not bottom out on the shocks under compression.

 

[Blue Steel]

what's an SAS custom suspension? is it just taking it to a shop that knows what they're doing and custom fabbing something for the explorer? i do have some bottoming out of shocks too with my lift. i got the old man emu extended shocks. my front end bottoms out real bad, but the back doesn't do it with the shackle and add a leaf.

 

[Alec]

Solid Axle Swap. And yes, that is a totally custom project.

As for your shocks, you say you bottom out on the shocks, or on the bumpstops. If on the shocks than you need shocks that have a shorter compression length. You're also killing your shocks.