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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
What would I need to do in order to fit 35x12.5x15 tires under my first gen? I have a 3" BL and a guy that will do an SOA for me. I dont know which parts Ill need for the front though.
You won't need a longer steeringshaft, if you didn't need one for the 3 BL. But you will need a drop pitman arm. You won't need a front driveshaft. But you might need a rear shaft. With a SOA and 3 BL you'll now have 8.5 to 9 inches of lift which is plenty. About a 3 BL too much in my opinion. But you may like it. Of course you'll also need a whole front suspension either Skyjacker or Superlift. You might consider just 4 inches of suspension lift and no SOA.
I'm a little confused:
a 4" lift kit is more expensive then a 5.5" kit
What is the advantage of an inch and a half?
Is it driveline angle?
Im also thinking that maybe 35's are a little extreme for me at this point. Can I drive it around town with the 3:73 gears that are in it now? If so and if I dont have to lengthen the driveshaft then it may still be a possiblity.
Is anyone reading this running 35's with a dana 28? How is it working out?
I called Natltire and they said $512 for the kit and to do a SOA in the rear. That included hydro shocks. I like the skyjacker kits...
Skyjacker's 4" may be a little more than the Superlift 5.5 because of the SOA... the Skyjacker has replacement rear leaf springs.
Also, when you mention Dana 28, I'm guessing you mean up front . After getting some mixed signals on this at first, almost every expert on this board agrees that we have a Dana 35 up front.
With your 3.73 gearing I wouldn't even think of going any higher than 33x12.5 tires.
Like Webster 3 said, the 4 inch lift gives you new rear springs that are still under the axle. The six inch lift just has you move your stock rear spring over the axle. Not everyone has gotten a lengthened rear driveshaft with the 6 inch lift. Some haven't and don't have any problems. I got some unwanted vibration, that's why I did it. Personally I think you should put F150 spring spacers up front and shackles in the rear. This would give you about 4-5 inches total which would be enough to run 33's. This would be a lot easier and cheaper. Plus 33's will be okay with 3.73's. Not optimal, but certainly usable. It's what I've been running while I wait for new gears.
Dont forget wheels15x8 rims. The SOA conversion is nice because it moves shock mounts and spring perches above the axle, much better clearance. However SOA is much more sensetive to spring wrap.
The best handling truck is the one lifted the least. Trimming or replacing fenders is always an option.
It is alway a good idea to plan how much you want to modify truck, do not spend money on things you will likely be dissatisfied with.
I guess I wasn't clear. You can't do the SOA and 4 inch lift. If you do SOA you have to go 6. That's because that's how much the rear gets lifted with SOA (axle tube+spring thickness +U bolt plate)
Yeah, and 33's will be really tight with 4" unless you trim. I run 32's and they fit perfectly. So maybe you can do the 4" lift, and then spacers and shackles to get a little more for the 33's. I'm thinking about spacers and shackles myself when these tires go (which will be a while!)
