4.0 OHV Gasket Question. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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4.0 OHV Gasket Question.

239

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City, State
Bonita Springs, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLT, V6 OHV
Hello, I recently took my truck into a shop a few weeks ago because I suspect that at 160,000 miles the intake gaskets need to be replaced. My question is how many sets of gaskets does this engine have? As far as I know there's an upper intake gasket, a lower intake gasket, and a head gasket(the mechanic told me didn't need replacing unless the engine overheats). I got an estimate for $440 for plenum gaskets, new valve covers, valve induction cleaning, and labor. The gaskets are $125 alone so I'm wondering how much you guys have seen these sell for and if this price is good. All help is appreciated.
 



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That's not a bad price, as the job would easily take me 5-6 hours to complete. There are more gaskets than that, though:

3x upper plenum gaskets/o-rings
1x EGR green o-ring
1x throttle body gasket/o-ring
1x idle air valve gasket/o-ring
1x EGR flange gasket
1x fuel rail gasket
2x valve cover gaskets
12x fuel injector o-rings

I don't think the lower manifold (or head gaskets) are usually the cause of leaks, unless you have reason to believe otherwise.

Some may say all of these are unnecessary to replace (especially the idle air valve gasket), but if you're tearing it down to that level, you might as well put all new seals in there. They are all readily available at local parts stores and not that expensive.
 






That's not a bad price, as the job would easily take me 5-6 hours to complete. There are more gaskets than that, though:

3x upper plenum gaskets/o-rings
1x EGR green o-ring
1x throttle body gasket/o-ring
1x idle air valve gasket/o-ring
1x EGR flange gasket
1x fuel rail gasket
2x valve cover gaskets
12x fuel injector o-rings

I don't think the lower manifold (or head gaskets) are usually the cause of leaks, unless you have reason to believe otherwise.

Some may say all of these are unnecessary to replace (especially the idle air valve gasket), but if you're tearing it down to that level, you might as well put all new seals in there. They are all readily available at local parts stores and not that expensive.

So the head gasket is the lower intake gasket? I'm not exactly sure how far into the engine he's going. I just know up to the valves I'm guessing. I'm going to make sure what gaskets he's replacing though. Hopefully most of the ones you named are included in the $125.
 






Upper intake gasket set, $6.00 or thereabouts at Autozone in Fremont, Ne.
 






Your lower intake gasket is different from your head gaskets. Your head gasket set between the engine block and the head, the head is on both sides of the engine under the valve covers. Heads are what your plugs screw into along with your exhaust manifold. They help to make up the "V" in v6 or v8. The lower intake sits in this "V". All gasket listed above are needed other than the IAC. You could get away with not replacing the "O" rings on the fuel objectors, but that would be just plain dumb due to the low cost of replacing them now compared to the high cost of replacing them later when they go bad. As far as the IAC gasket it is 1 or 2 bucks why not change it with the others.
 






So the head gasket is the lower intake gasket? I'm not exactly sure how far into the engine he's going. I just know up to the valves I'm guessing. I'm going to make sure what gaskets he's replacing though. Hopefully most of the ones you named are included in the $125.

Sorry, the way my post reads is not really clear, but no -- the lower manifold is just upstream of the head, and the lower manifold gasket is between the lower manifold and the head. The head gasket is between the head and the block.
 






Yes that is correct.
 






I've replaced my upper intake gaskets twice (3 rubber donuts for lack of better words), while doing the valve cover gaskets at the same time because to replace the upper intake gaskets, you'll take off 80% of what is necessary to replace the valve cover gaskets...

The lower intake gasket is really overbuilt, and from what I've read it very rarely goes bad.

My vote is to do BOTH the Upper Intake and Valve Cover Gaskets at once and you're good for at least 90,000 miles.

IMG_3847.jpg

IMG_3849.jpg

IMG_3851.jpg

IMG_3854.jpg


The BIG black gasket is the lower intake (has steel inserts in it where the bolts pass through so it's hard to compress and thus rarely goes bad), the three black gaskets are the upper intake gaskets (that compress and go bad), and the green circular rubber gasket is a seal for the metal pipe that comes up from the EGR valve.
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Very useful pics, I'm going to get both the upper and lower replaced. I know I should replace all the gaskets listed above while the engine is apart so I probably will. I'm going back to the shop monday to get a vacuum leak test. I'm eager to see my engine running right again. As of right now my Explorer can't even reach 70 mph. Up to 60 is fine, anything faster means flooring it. Could awlays be the injectors though.
 






Very useful pics, I'm going to get both the upper and lower replaced. I know I should replace all the gaskets listed above while the engine is apart so I probably will. I'm going back to the shop monday to get a vacuum leak test. I'm eager to see my engine running right again. As of right now my Explorer can't even reach 70 mph. Up to 60 is fine, anything faster means flooring it. Could always be the injectors though.

Just to clarify - if you have oil leaking from your valve cover gaskets, they are more than likely leaking air as well. The pollution control system is "closed looped."

You might want to get a price on the upper and lower intake gaskets, and then when you know what that is, try and get a deal on the valve cover gaskets. Keep the process separate to see just what kind of a deal you're getting - kapisch?! When it's bundled together all at once it's harder for you, as a consumer, to separate.

HTH -
 






3x upper plenum gaskets/o-rings
1x EGR green o-ring
1x throttle body gasket/o-ring
1x idle air valve gasket/o-ring
1x EGR flange gasket
1x fuel rail gasket
2x valve cover gaskets
12x fuel injector o-rings

So are those all of the gaskets this engine has? I'd like to get them all replaced I just want to make sure they're all done so I don't have to go back again too soon.
 






Just to clarify - if you have oil leaking from your valve cover gaskets, they are more than likely leaking air as well. The pollution control system is "closed looped."

You might want to get a price on the upper and lower intake gaskets, and then when you know what that is, try and get a deal on the valve cover gaskets. Keep the process separate to see just what kind of a deal you're getting - kapisch?! When it's bundled together all at once it's harder for you, as a consumer, to separate.

HTH -

There is oil leaking about halfway down. always thought it was leaking where the engine and tranny hook up because it drips there but I guess it trickles all the way down. not a whole lot of oil leaks, just a few drops on my driveway a month.
 






to get to the lower intake gasket you have to go this far

198971_10150495790160165_713775164_17972719_7974384_n.jpg
 






There is oil leaking about halfway down. always thought it was leaking where the engine and tranny hook up because it drips there but I guess it trickles all the way down. not a whole lot of oil leaks, just a few drops on my driveway a month.

239,
For your mechanic to remove and replace your upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, they will have to take of 80% of what is necessary to get to the valve cover gaskets. So what I'm getting at is that most of your labor should already be bundled into that portion of the repair.

Once you know how much it cost to replace the upper and lower intake gaskets, THEN you should drop the question of how much more would it cost to add to the estimate removal and replacement of the valve cover gaskets.

You should be able to get your valve cover gaskets replaced for only a little more $$$ because your mechanic is going to tell you the reason it costs so much money to remove/replace the upper and lower intake gaskets is because of all the sub-systems he has to remove.

If you're Ex is dripping oil all the way down the block to your driveway, you're probably leaking air past your valve cover gaskets as well. Overall, your case actually sounds pretty severe since you write you can't drive over 60 MPH - so you actually could have a whole lot of issues combined.
 






239,
For your mechanic to remove and replace your upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, they will have to take of 80% of what is necessary to get to the valve cover gaskets. So what I'm getting at is that most of your labor should already be bundled into that portion of the repair.

Once you know how much it cost to replace the upper and lower intake gaskets, THEN you should drop the question of how much more would it cost to add to the estimate removal and replacement of the valve cover gaskets.

You should be able to get your valve cover gaskets replaced for only a little more $$$ because your mechanic is going to tell you the reason it costs so much money to remove/replace the upper and lower intake gaskets is because of all the sub-systems he has to remove.

If you're Ex is dripping oil all the way down the block to your driveway, you're probably leaking air past your valve cover gaskets as well. Overall, your case actually sounds pretty severe since you write you can't drive over 60 MPH - so you actually could have a whole lot of issues combined.

Could be it's not a lot of oil leaking, it's just bulit up and dripped down the block over time. it idles really good except for the occasional surge of 100-200 rpms and never turns off on it's own, just can't push it past 60 without wasting a crazy amount of gas. The valve covers are included in the labor already. Hopefully these gaskets and valve cleaning help a lot. The vehicle sat unused for an entire year and has never had the gaskets replaced or valves cleaned as far as I know(parents old car). Thanks for all the info though.
 






Could be it's not a lot of oil leaking, it's just bulit up and dripped down the block over time. it idles really good except for the occasional surge of 100-200 rpms and never turns off on it's own, just can't push it past 60 without wasting a crazy amount of gas. The valve covers are included in the labor already. Hopefully these gaskets and valve cleaning help a lot. The vehicle sat unused for an entire year and has never had the gaskets replaced or valves cleaned as far as I know(parents old car). Thanks for all the info though.

No problem - I've got my fair share of good info on this forum :)

Say man - the worst thing that can occur with a high mileage vehicle is that it goes from a daily runner to long term storage. The older they get, the more critical it is that they are run regularly.

Daily runners have nice moist expanded gaskets, as well as moist oiled surfaces that they sit up against. When a vehicle goes into long term storage, the oil dries up on both the gaskets and their sealing surfaces...

So now that you've brought this up, long term storage, I believe a lot of your issues are indeed gasket related.

Additionally, you might even want to ask if they can send your injectors out to be cleaned, as they could probably use it just because they are high milage, and also they might be gummed up varnish inside from gas sitting in them for so long. HTH -
 






Update

All the gaskets where changed today and the valves where cleaned. I had all the gaskets above replaced, the upper intake gaskets where completely fried, they broke easily and were very rigid. The valve cover gaskets were leaking oil and the lower intake gasket was leaking as well. The X runs great now, haven't took it on the highway as i'm waiting for the RTV gasket on the IAC to dry, I had to use silicone because I have the wrong IAC and the gasket doesn't fit(I've been using it for two years now and it works ok but will be replaced). The valves were very dirty but the mechanic said the engine looked fine when he replaced everything. So I have new intake gaskets, valve covers, fuel rail gasket, throttle body gasket, EGR gasket, Fuel injector O rings, and valve induction cleaning all for $415, I was shown all of the original parts that came out of the truck before paying as always. Just thought I'd update to help someone in the future, after a year of storage and 161,000 miles that's what had to be replaced. Thanks for everyone's help. :thumbsup:
 






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