4.0 SOHC chain guide

[brainfart3]

it broke. with only 148k miles - the drivers side chain guide needs to be replaced. I've pulled the valve cover off and verified.

it's not clear in the manual i have (haynes i think) how deeply i need to dig into the engine to replace this component.

must i dismantle the front end (front cover etc) or is there a "quick fix"?

and i suppose i should replace both sides while i'm at it.

feedback is greatly apprecaited

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome, and search for the many "cam cassette" threads. Countless members have worked on their SOHC, it is a common problem. Read a few of those threads before jumping in or assuming anything. Regards,

 

[brainfart3]

THX! will do. I seached for cam guide but didn't get much. :roll:

 

[CDW6212R]

Also check for "timing cassette TSB" there are many good key words.

 

[brainfart3]

i've read some of the threads and - altho i'm a pretty fair shade-tree mechanic over the last 40 years - it seems a bit intimidating.
special tools required to lock the crank and time both cams.
and what's the deal with a chain in the rear of the engine????

All i want to do is replace the dang chain guide (excuse if this is an improper term) on the drivers side of the engine. s/b fairly simple - right??
but it seems like 3 chains, a couple tensioners, oil pump and pulling the engine. Perhaps a bit more than i can get done in a weekend

Dealer says $90 for left kit, $80 for right kit. they said i'd need other things too but he couldn't/wouldn't elaborate. Ive seen the parts listings in the threads - maybe i'll have him price all those componenets tomorrow.

From what i've read here a dealer will charge about $1500 for this - i couldn't get a straight answer from the local dealership ("trade it in" they kept repeating).

Another option is a a rebuilt long-block. Locally that's about $2500.


i'd post a pic of what i found under the valve cover but i can't figure out how..
the plastic "guide" had slipped upward and was tapping on the valve cover. I just pulled it right on up and out. Was only held in via friction by the tensioner. was a bit banged up at the bottom of the back ""lobe" but not sigificant wear on the surface that meets the chain.

Top of the metal "guide backing" is bright and shiney - apparently a portion has broken off.

 

[CDW6212R]

The guides are molded to the metal shell, and that is bolted in at the front of each head.
None of the chains can be worked on without setting the camshaft timing. When anything is loosened, the cams are disconnected from the crank, and must be re timed. There are no timing marks, no splines, no keyways. Each camshaft and each end of the jack shaft(old cam location) has a friction fit for the bolt there. Thus the timing can be infinite, and only the tools can set them together.

Start by evaluating the damage. Find out if there is any debris which got into the oil pump, plugging it or starving the engine of oil etc. If the oiling was not stopped then you can do better by cleaning and repairing the minor expense of the parts related to the cassette(s) and tensioners.

It sounds like you need to drop at least the bottom pan(easy) to look for debris. If you find enough, then you would be looking at dropping the other pan(hard) to change the oil pump and clean the pickup.

The rear cassette guide was never part of any recall or TSB, most all just leave that alone and pray that it lasts longer. When you get enough mileage on the engine, then doing the rear should be good maintenance. I think that you are getting close right now.

I bought mine with 77,450 miles, did the work first, and hope to reach 150k without touching the rear cassette until then. The engine or trans has to come out to do that rear set.

A used later SOHC Explorer engine wouldn't be a bad idea either. The updated parts are 2002 designs, so at least a 2002 would be needed. The total parts cost not counting an oil pump or the rear casette, it is under $150 or so. The tool kit seems to run $150 or so for most people. Weigh your options after you know how much or little is actually wrong with the engine. The parts for these kind of repairs are cheap, the expense of any other internal damage would cost a lot more. Check on a member here who rebuilt his, the complete cost was still under $1500 for him, not counting the R&R of the engine, or it's assembly labor. Good luck,

 

[brainfart3]

Don - TY TY TY! for these posts.
The engine was only run a few miles after the noise began, oil pressure remained normal.
At your recommendation i've read a bunch of the threads on this subject - couldn't help noticing you reply often. Again - Many Thanks!

I've located the timing tool on Ebay, local dealer has the cam cassettes. With the list of other parts listed in these threads - i have a difficult decision to make.

repair / R&R rebuild / swap (4.0 or 5.0)

Tonight i'll discuss these options with my friend Jack Daniels.
Then tomorrow morning with my Better Half.

maybe tomorrow i'll but the motorcyle back together before working on the SportTrac. Always good weather to ride here in AZ.

ANyway - Thanks Again!

 

[iceman7329]

I hate building the 4.0 SOHC. They suck.