4.0 SOHC... question

[CDW6212R]

What is the mileage, because likely you have enough that pulling it out and doing the rear also is smart. A lot of people had the issues with the front, and left the rear alone because the mileage was low. Most engines now have the kind of mileage that makes it likely the rear should be done too.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Engine lift points

. . . What do you all recommend hooking to yank the motor out, I already have both of the exhaust manifolds off. . . .

Most members have used the exhaust manifolds to lift the engine. I plan to bolt a chain to the heads in front where the A/C compressor/power steering casting was mounted and where the alternator casting was mounted. I'll loop another chain around the rear pipe of each exhaust manifold.

Since you have the manifolds removed you'll probably have to loop something around the rear of the oil pan. I would insert some short lengths of 1"x4" lumber to distribute the force against the pan and protect it. There just isn't much to attach to at the rear of the engine. When you get the engine out do not turn it upside down to work on it until after you have cleaned the cassette fragments out of the pan.

 

[shelbygt]

Got the gear and chain back on and hooked up the tools to understand how they work.

So basically the tool .....on one end of the cam aligns the slot on the cam (pretty much horizontal), which is in a sense the "timing mark" and the other tool holds the cam from spinning when tightening the sprocket? You do one head at a time. The crankshaft tool just keeps the crank from moving.

In the Haynes instructions it says when reinstalling everything to rotate the crank one full revolution to get TDC prior to attaching the cam tools and setting the timing, I thought this would cause damage? Anyway, everything was still lined up on both heads, so it should be good to go...
Thanks again!
Dave

 

[2000StreetRod]

Cam notches

The notches (slots) in the camshaft are offset. With the crankshaft at TDC, the notches should be parallel to the valve cover mating surface of the head and either both cam notches offset up or both offset down.

 

[shelbygt]

Thanks for the tips Dale! At TDC the notches on both cams on mine are in exactly the same horizontal position ,parallel to the head surface.

It is much easier to understand how things work once you get the tools mounted.

Yeah at 192k miles, I would be an idiot not to do it all. I remember reading somewhere that there was a kit to order from Ford with all the timing parts, do the prices vary from dealer to dealer or is the Fast Parts Network a better choice?

 

[shelbygt]

Is ordering the timing parts from Autozone an option? Is there a appreciative difference in the quality of the parts? I know many of the parts that Ford sells are from companies like Borg Warner and not from a Ford factory.

Just trying to save some money where I can. I will be into this for $500 plus real quick. I hope to get at least 40-60k more miles out of the truck and then probably but a newer one.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Alignment & parts source

The cam orientation shown in your photos looks correct. The camshaft position sensor square peg on the left cam is up and the #1 cylinder valve stem is not depressed by the right cam lobe.

I haven't checked for parts availability from AutoZone, Advance Auto or O'Reillys yet. I may buy some gaskets from one of them. I believe if you buy Ford genuine timing chain parts they're manufactured overseas. My upper chain tensioner was manufactured in Italy. There are complete chain/cassette sets available on eBay for less than $300 but I only have 2WD so no balance shaft tensioner or guide. Also, I already have new upper tensioners. I don't know about the quality of the eBay offerred parts. I'll probably buy from an online Ford dealer such as tousleyfordparts.com, fordgenuinepartsonline.com tascafordparts.com, or silverstatefordparts.com. Even if the parts are made overseas there will be Ford imposed quality standards. $500 might seem like a lot of money for parts but it's only about one monthly new car payment.

 

[CDW6212R]

I have liked Tasca Ford the best, they had the best prices, and answered the phone. I've spent about $700 or so on new parts for my Mountaineer from them. They are trying to be the biggest volume seller, price is not a priority with them. They also can find some obsolete parts, they have dealer networks to check with.

I always check their prices when I do get something locally. I get great pricing here, but Tasca is usually cheaper. Regards,

 

[shelbygt]

It's out!

Yeah my sentiments exactly Dale, 1 months worth of car payments! I don't know yet if I will replace all the chains, but the tensioners and guides ...for sure! I bolted the exhaust manifolds back on for the lift. Those motor mount nuts were a PITA to get out with the manifolds in place! Tomorrow the rest of the tear down begins....

 

[2000StreetRod]

Congratulations!

Is that a towing strap that you used? One of those is less likely to damage the engine than the chains I was planning to use. I know how glad you are to have the engine out.

 

[shelbygt]

Yes it was a tow chain. I put the valve covers back on to protect the stabilizer bars on top of the cam shafts. The hooks were too big to get through the holes of the manifold, so I held the hook and pushed the strap through the hole and then put the hook through the loop like a knot. Then I took the hooks and connected to the hoist hook. Worked like a charm. I was able to use the alternator bracket bolts for the upper brackets on my engine stand, but I need to find longer bolts for the lower 2 block holes, because they are set back and not threaded all the way through.

But yes, BIG relief getting the motor out, no more bending and reaching to work on the motor and I can see everything!

 

[2000StreetRod]

valve covers

I also plan to reinstall my valve covers to protect the valve train and oilers. I bought bolts this morning just for the front lift chain and for the engine stand.

Did you have any problems clearing the radiator support with the oil pan?

 

[shelbygt]

It was tight but I had my son help guide it through the opening. I think you just need to get the tilt on the motor just right to clear it all. Where did you find the bolts for the stand?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Engine stand mounting bolts

It was tight but I had my son help guide it through the opening. I think you just need to get the tilt on the motor just right to clear it all. Where did you find the bolts for the stand?

My engine stand mounts are 2 inches long/thick so I bought four M10-1.50x75mm Hex Cap Screws at Lowe's. I also bought a bunch of washers to use as spacers. I hope that they are the right length. Hopefully in a few days I'll have a chance to use them.

I will lower the front of the vehicle as much as possible just before pulling the engine. I have the boom chain/hook set at the shortest length. My lift chains will be as short as possible. I also have a one ton winch that I can use to pull up the rear if necessary.

Did you set the crane boom at the 1/4 ton position for maximum lift?

 

[shelbygt]

I saw those at Lowes, but my stand had thicker brackets, so I found some GM started bolts at Advance Auto that were long enough.

I had my boom all the way out and even had the truck up on jack stands, it clear with room to spare. I got the strap as tight as I could to the motor and that helped give more height.


I got it on the stand now. I pulled the lower pan and found this, any idea where the metal came from?

I have to go tomorrow and get an 8mm torx socket for the 2 torx head bolts around the chain opening, so I am at a hold again. Also the bolts are not long enough for the depth of the balancer bolts that came with my harmonic balancer removal tool, so back to Lowes...

 

[shelbygt]

Do I need to remove the flexplate to get to the rear chain guides?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Flexplate must be removed

Do I need to remove the flexplate to get to the rear chain guides?

Yes, you will have to remove the flexplate to change either the rear guide assembly or the rear chain and jackshaft sprocket. There's a bolt in the lower part of the head that holds the guide assembly pivot. Do you plan to replace the sprockets, chain and guide assembly? There's a knock out plug (like a freeze plug) that covers the jackshaft rear sprocket bolt. The hole it plugs is smaller in diameter than the sprocket but larger in diameter than the bolt head. If you replace the chain or jackshaft rear sprocket the plug will have to be removed and a new one inserted. You can see what I'm talking about in the photo below by Midwest Kid. He replaced his rear cassette by removing the transmission and flexplate while leaving the engine in the vehicle. The plug I referred to has been removed and you can see part of the sprocket. I think the Torx bolt to the right of the sprocket secures the pivot of the rear guide assembly. To remove the guide assembly after removing the bolt you must remove the camshaft sprocket, move it to the side and slide the guide assembly up the head casting past the end of the camshaft. Removing the chain and jackshaft sprocket is also tricky but easier on an engine stand because the engine can be rotated to a better position (exhaust ports tilted upward). I suspect when the engine is assembled in the factory the head is installed after the jackshaft sprocket and chain. I've never encountered a rear chain configuration on any other overhead cam engine. If I didn't like the Sport body so much I would never have considered purchasing a vehicle with such a difficult to maintain engine. I'm hoping to buy a 2000 Mustang in a few years and am eager to work with the DOHC 4.6L V8 with a much better timing chain design.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Pieces & bolts

I saw those at Lowes, but my stand had thicker brackets, so I found some GM started bolts at Advance Auto that were long enough.

I had my boom all the way out and even had the truck up on jack stands, it clear with room to spare. I got the strap as tight as I could to the motor and that helped give more height.


I got it on the stand now. I pulled the lower pan and found this, any idea where the metal came from?

I have to go tomorrow and get an 8mm torx socket for the 2 torx head bolts around the chain opening, so I am at a hold again. Also the bolts are not long enough for the depth of the balancer bolts that came with my harmonic balancer removal tool, so back to Lowes...

I suspect your pieces came from the lower front tensioner and front guide assembly. See similar pieces in the photo below by gold984by4.

If your Lowe's carries the same inventory as mine they won't have the balancer bolts you need. The longest mine carried was 70mm. I had to get mine (100mm) at a fastener specialty shop.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Primary timing chain kit

I just purchased a Ford primary timing chain kit (2U3Z-6D256-CA) on eBay for $90 plus shipping. There is only one left and here's the link:

New Timing Tensioner Kit for Ford Explorer/Mountaineer

 

[shelbygt]

Thanks man.....just order last one!