4405 Tcase Takes Time to Decide to Engage, then Doesn't Let Go.

[jasonb]

good to hear it!

 

[Jefe]

 

[dogfriend]

BTW, I agree 100% with OperaHouse.

Doh, I was 100% wrong!

Glad it was a cheap fix.

 

[GJarrett]

LOL..... you was hoping I was going to go to a manual tcase, weren't you?

Jeff, I've thought of that, but my stupid Eddie Bauer center console takes up ALL of the area that the shifter levers would have to go through. I'd have to redesign my whole interior to do it.

 

[DeRocha]

Sweet. I'm Glad to hear it was a simple fix...

 

[JDraper]

LOL..... you was hoping I was going to go to a manual tcase, weren't you?

Jeff, I've thought of that, but my stupid Eddie Bauer center console takes up ALL of the area that the shifter levers would have to go through. I'd have to redesign my whole interior to do it.

Ya know....Dr. Sawzall can make quick work of the console.......

 

[dman726749]

GJarrett....it can be done...i remebered a thread where someone did it and posted a pic.....just your luck that i am bored and had nothing to do so i found it and here it is in all its glory for you

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102537&highlight=shifter+console

 

[Vozar]

So does that mean u can come up to windrock? Woohoo! Glad u got the problem solved!

 

[Jefe]

LOL..... you was hoping I was going to go to a manual tcase, weren't you?

Jeff, I've thought of that, but my stupid Eddie Bauer center console takes up ALL of the area that the shifter levers would have to go through. I'd have to redesign my whole interior to do it.

Have you never seen my Atlas shift levers? I have the full console and have yet to cut into it.

 

[GJarrett]

Crap, no, I didn't look at it that closely. Both you and LizardTrac have done it so I stand corrected. I just didn't want to lose my Texas Kleenex Box

That being said, there's no reason not to do it besides money. I'll put it on my list

FordBeast98, sorry, I had already cancelled and they are sending me a refund, so I won't make it this time. Since I won't, I do plan to sometime this summer, and it sounds like you go there all the time, so hopefull we can get an Explorer run at Windrock in another couple of months that I can make. Right now, I have 3 weekends left to:
1) Rewire the tcase switch;
2) Install a radiator;
3) Install all four balljoints;
4) Adjust and fix several minor vehicle issues like rebending & reinforcing bumpers, wiring offroad lighting, installing new tires, getting an alignment, etcetcetc;
5) And don't forget that I just bought a fixer-upper house requiring MAJOR work to make it livable by the time I return from Moab and my marriage.
6) Oh yeah, I'd better not forgot planning the rest of the honeymoon and marriage

I really want to run Windrock but it will have to wait a couple of months.

 

[Vozar]

That sucks man, i hope you get all your stuff fixed. You have alot of stuff to do. As soon as u want just contact me and well get a run together up to windrock.

Matt

 

[JEFF hILLYARD]

Brown wire mod


I disconnected the brown wire and my 4wd is disconnected but my front driveshafts still turn. I jacked up the front end and turnwed the wheels by hand and the shafts turned. whats up!

 

[JDraper]

I disconnected the brown wire and my 4wd is disconnected but my front driveshafts still turn. I jacked up the front end and turnwed the wheels by hand and the shafts turned. whats up!

That's normal in the Gen II explorers. The brown wire mod just disengages the front driveshaft from the xfer case. The front axles are still permanantly attached to the wheels, and to the front driveshaft.

 

[DeRocha]

Like JDraper wrote the front axles are permanently engaged. 1st Gens (91-94) have hubs which lock and unlock the axles from the wheels.

 

[gijoecam]

There is a sticker on the outside of the transfer case, WARNING SHOCK HAZARD DO NOT OPEN. When you open the case there is another sticker on the inside, WE SAID YOU WOULD BE SHOCKED.

There isn't much inside a 4405 case. The shift motor only decides only if the planetary gear reduction is used. Though, on a bad day it could put you into neutral. The electric clutch puts power to the front wheels only when power is applied. This clutch is not like the A/C clutch that engages a clutch plate. This is an eddy current clutch that puts drag on a spinning plate. That drag makes three little balls climb a ramp and put pressure on the clutch plates. One common problem with these is the rear housing that mounts the rear shaft bearing wears. Test your rear flange for up down play with transmission in neutral. This can cause excessive wear on the clutch engagement mech. A few people have had problems with this ball/ramp mech. I'd say put away the voltmeters and get out the wrenches.

These aren't hard to get apart and do an inspection. Gasket is just silicone. Be carefull with shift rod. It is very easy to snap the guide pin. Rebuild kits I've found don't include clutch parts.

You sound like you've taken a few of those apart.... I'd KILL to see some pictures of the guts to see what makes it tick, how it works, and what makes it engage. I've got a few more questions for you...

How does the eddy-current coil work as compared to a standard clutch (AC for example)? Is it still on-or-off, or can it vary the amount of pressure applied to the balls, and, therefore, the front wheels?
Do you by any chance have some pics of the assembly/disassembly?


Based on my extremely limited knowledge, that definately sounds plausible for anyone who may have some slop in the transfer case output bushing(s). I'd alsways start with the simple stuff first.... the electrical connections on anyone with the brown wire mod would be the first line of attack for me.

-Joe