4406 - Problem Shifting into 2hi? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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4406 - Problem Shifting into 2hi?

gijoecam-
Sadly, I can't see the images you posted... can anyone else? I wonder if this is a sign-in only site where you can't see the image unless your logged in...

Just realized the images wouldn't copy... here's a PDF of it:

00 F150 T-cases

Does the link work?
 



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Negatory, linky no worky. Looks like the path might be referencing a file local on your system (based on the "My Documents" reference).
 






OK, for pete's sake!



Click on 'My Documents'

then click 'Show All'

Then select '00 F150 t-case Assembly'

You can see the difference between that one and the one IZ posted. The one he linked to I suspect is the on-demand 44-06 out of an Expedition. That one was never available with a manual lever as its function is identical to the 44-05 in the Explorer. If you used that print to order parts, you might have some issues (unless, of course, that's what you actually have).

-Joe
 






Nope, not using the TOD diagram for anything other than reference. Haven't ordered any parts either, but did ensure that all part prices were for manual T-Case (I am aware of the difference).

Also, even though the diagram doesn't make it obvious, it does have an electromagnetic clutch. If you look at parts 42 and 44 on the manual T-Case, these appear to make up the electromagnetic clutch setup.

Either way, thanks for the diagram, it was helpful if nothing else.
 






Edited the link... Having the link out there makes me nervous, that's all...
 






So, with the help of the Ford Rebuild document (the same one that GiJoe provided), I tore the 1st half of the 4406 apart. Overall, this case looks very clean inside. Looks more or less brand new.

I did find 2 possible reasons it was not coming out of 4wd:
1. It looks like the salvage yard hard removed all the fluid, so the two halves of the electromagnet setup were slightly rusty. With how close they sit, this may have been enough for the 2 to stick.

2. There are 2 springs that force the 4wd engagement collar away from the splined shaft. Basically, its a passive system that SHOULD force the collar off of the splined shaft if force is not put on it. In mine, I think these springs are slightly weak and were not causing the hub to completely clear the splines.

Either way, it looks like the T-Case is good. I did have one minor casualty during teardown: the speedo collar that rides on the rear output shaft was shattered. I believe this may have already been shattered when I pulled it apart, and I didn't find the little steel ball (although I did find an extra one somewhere, so I'm thinking this might be the right one).

Overall, it looks like this T-Case should be AOK for a rebuild. Now I'm going to put it back together, clean up the outside of the case, and then do a rebuild diary on this bad boy. I'm going to go ahead and replace all the bearings, bushings, seals, etc, as well as the chain (while I have it out and apart). So, keep an eye out for that if your interested.

Thanks for all your help guys!
 






Ya know, I suspected the clutch right from the get-go, just never made mention of it... I figured putting a big pair of channel-locks on the two outputs might break them loose... I suspect that if you had a little fluid in there, everything would have been moving just fine.

Good luck with the rebuild!

-Joe
 






Well, one last follow up on this thread. It turns out that I had missed something in the tear down, or rather, I didn't think anything of it at the time. The race/support that surrounded the rear output bearing had cracked and was floating between the back of the case and the clutch. This piece is what was causing the issue.

I originally ignored this because I had read somewhere something about a crush sleeve that needed to be replaced. Well, whatever it was related to, it wasn't the T-Case.

I returned the T-Case to the salvage yard and the exchanged it for a newer, better condition one. This one looks as clean inside, plus its not broken. Weird thing, it is out of a '98, but it still has the right VSS and drive. Now I get to do my teardown and rebuild thread... look forward to it soon.

Ohh, and thanks again for all your guys help.
 






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