4R44E band anchor is missing. The 'Phantom Menace'.

[HiSpeedDirt]

That yellow ring was also on the updated OD planetary when I replaced mine, it is in the right place and is affixed to the planetary.

It's in the right place, nice! You just make me feel much smoother.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

Next one is central support, thrust bearing, and TSS. Central support is screwed with the caged locking nut, and retained by the ring, it also seats very snugly inside the case . Intermediate drum looking much better than OD, springs is Ok. Intermediate drum band is not looking burned, direct clutch friction plates and steels too, piston lip seals i guess as they should be.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

Next is forward clutch cylinder, thrust washer, 4-pinion planetary gear, forward ring gear, forward ring gear hub thrust bearing, and input shell assembly, which is looking relatively good. Clutch pressure plate is kind of "smoked", frictions and steels is burned completely. Piston springs looking good, outer and inner seal lip is flat, but maybe it should be like this. Rubber cushion ring is partly welded to the piston groove, and cutted off from other side. Forward clutch shell full of nasty, sticky substance.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

Next is reverse planet carrier with thrust washer, 6-pinion planetary gear, output shaft thrust washer, reverse brake drum and band which is likely OEM one LuK still in not bad condition. Low reverse cylinder and piston looking good, but had a lot dirt inside. Then i removed output shaft retaining ring it falls down in the plastic pan, which is been left underneath transmission to pick up mercon drops. And after that the case was empty.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

Fortunately i managed to polish servo cylinders, bores, and covers. I had 3M Super Fine, and Micro Fine softback sanding sponges. Also i had 600 grit Sunmight sandpaper, which is for dry sanding only. I decided to polish bores in three stages with 600 grit sandpaper, 3M Micro Fine sponge, and last 3M Micro Fine sponge with oil, and cylinders with covers in two stages without oil. I did not used 3M Super Fine because i found it much coarser then 600 grit sandpaper for first stage. For bore polishing i wrap sandpaper around the drill bit. To secure 3M sponges on the drill bit i used 3M 2090 masking tape, and paper towels to clean bores between the stages. I rotated the drill bit clockwise, with back&forward "honing" movements. I used for cylinders polishing small pieces of sandpaper and sponge to work with a finger tip in one (clockwise) direction. But i did it very gently, and without fanatism.
I do not recommend use the Dremel, as i planned before. It was very delicate procedure, and you never ensure right speed of travel, even with clean felt without polishing compound. Eventually i smoothed "steps" and traces rough sandind with less wear then i expect.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

I watched youtube video about servo shaft sharp edge, which is eventually "shave" servo bore to the point of needing re-fill kit . This guy told that "beveling" this sharp edges can solve this issue. I'am not sure about this grind(file) procedure, even with lathe there is a risk of piston seal lip damage.
Used OD drum on it's way to me. It was $92 with shipping. Though it make sense to purchase rebuild kit instead of separate parts.
Hope i can clean up valve body without loosing small parts, and missed "L" pins. Actually i'am not planed to do this, but it has too much nasty dirt inside. Also i noticed that cooler limit valve is stuck, and reteiner plug has the "L" pin point wear.

 

[gsbarry]

That's interesting info, I haven't heard that before. I believe he is saying to simply blunt the edge of the piston very minimally.

If the bore on the case is damaged, he is suggesting to replace the case and NOT sleeve the case bore.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

That's interesting info, I haven't heard that before. I believe he is saying to simply blunt the edge of the piston very minimally.

If the bore on the case is damaged, he is suggesting to replace the case and NOT sleeve the case bore.

This edges is really sharp, but question is how to blunt them nice and safe for piston rubber seal lips. I don't think it possible with sandpaper, shaft steel is too hard. May be it is more suitable with file or cutter, then shaft is secured in the chuck of lathe. Same procedure with drill may be unsafe for rubber seal lips of piston.
Undoubtedly if bore wear is too big, there is no other chance to fix it but bought re-fill sleeve kit. If bore wear not critical shaft edge blunting may prolong it's life.

 

[JK080]

This transmission does not suffer from worn servo bores like the larger ones in the later vehicles. The picture of the servo bores that you have show the tooling marks from when they were first machined rather than wear marks. I would not do any modification to the servo shafts, the need to stay sharp, the sharp edge on valves in the valve body and the servo shafts need to be sharp so the can clean the bores they ride in. If they have a bevel debris can get lodged at the bevel and instead of being pushed away it jams and either sticks the valve or scratches the bores.

The way the servos work is that oil is fed through the case into the servo bores and then into the hole in the servo shaft, then the oil fills the back of the servo so it can apply the band. If you sand or hone the servo bores you are adding clearance between the servo shaft and the case, this can cause oil pressure to leak and apply and release pressure to drop. You shouldn't have issues with what has already be done but I wouldn't do anymore.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

This transmission does not suffer from worn servo bores like the larger ones in the later vehicles. The picture of the servo bores that you have show the tooling marks from when they were first machined rather than wear marks. I would not do any modification to the servo shafts, the need to stay sharp, the sharp edge on valves in the valve body and the servo shafts need to be sharp so the can clean the bores they ride in. If they have a bevel debris can get lodged at the bevel and instead of being pushed away it jams and either sticks the valve or scratches the bores.

The way the servos work is that oil is fed through the case into the servo bores and then into the hole in the servo shaft, then the oil fills the back of the servo so it can apply the band. If you sand or hone the servo bores you are adding clearance between the servo shaft and the case, this can cause oil pressure to leak and apply and release pressure to drop. You shouldn't have issues with what has already be done but I wouldn't do anymore.

Thank you for good advice. Actually i don't wanna tempt the fortune, risking to cut servo piston seal lips during edge "blunting", which is miraculously survive without apply strut support.
I heard many advices to polish the "steps" inside the servo bore with sandpaper on the drill bit to prevent shaft jamming, which may cause band burn and so on. Also i decided to smooth previous outer cylinder rough sandind, and oxidation affected area, because i'am not sure that new o-ring would not leak with it. Hope that this procedures would not lead to pressure loss.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

How to recognize worn bushings, bearings races, and washers?

 

[gsbarry]

JK can probably answer this better than I can, but generally I would say that on races and bushings look and feel with you finger nail closely for signs of scoring or indentations, and with bearings look for any visible damage and feel for sloppiness or excess play in the bearing.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

I finally figured out why cooler limit valve was jammed. "L" pin somehow shave many micro metal particles and aluminium thin foil flakes from the valve reteiner plug.
To clean valve body i used brake&carb cleaners, WD-40(to lubricate), compressed air, and cleaning kit for my DeVilbiss spray guns.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

Just received used OD drum, it looks much better than my. Coast clutches and steels are included, they looks not bad. Outer and inner piston seal lip which is likely OEM(have part numbers on the grooves) also looks pretty good.
I purchased assembly lube for gaskets, washers, bearings attaching, and Kooler Kleen for flushing transmission cooler(radiator). I have no illusions about it's "magic" cleaning capabilities, to flush this kind of very sticky contamination properly needed something like this.
.
But in my situation it better than nothing.

http://[URL=http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/mrlowless/media/IMAG2908_zpsfo6fgtsm.jpg.html][ATTACH=full]308698[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]414822[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]308699[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]308700[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]308701[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]308702[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]308703[/ATTACH]

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

Rebuild kit is arrived. In the package i fond transmission filter(screen), friction plates, steel plates, drum band, gaskets, extension housing gasket, seals, o-rings, extension housing bushing. Unfortunately this kit has no "brochure" or booklet to know which part for. All manage to recognize is TransTec plastic sealing rings, pan gasket, pump gasket, two valve body gaskets, extension housing gasket, low reverse servo cover gasket, bell housing to case seal ring, extension housing seal, pump seal, direct clutch outer lip seal, wich is luckily in individual marked pouch. I guess "1" ,"2" is servo cover seal o-rings, and "3" is low reverse piston outer seal, but i'am not sure. Also i identifyed inner "10","11" and outer "15","16" as clutch piston lip seals (but don't know which one), forward clutch rubber cushion ring which is "14" on the picture. Lot of o-rings in one plastic pouch "17-39" with valve body lube orifice inside. It might be for valve body solenoids, but i have no idea for which one.

 

[gsbarry]

One of those small rings may be the shift linkage case seal. I suspect you are right that most of the small rings are for the solenoids, and possibly the valve body if that is disassembled. 4 of the solenoids are exactly the same, and suspect the same is true for the piston seals in each drum. You will just have to examine each ring very closely as you go along, and will probably have extras when finished.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

One of those small rings may be the shift linkage case seal. I suspect you are right that most of the small rings are for the solenoids, and possibly the valve body if that is disassembled. 4 of the solenoids are exactly the same, and suspect the same is true for the piston seals in each drum. You will just have to examine each ring very closely as you go along, and will probably have extras when finished.

I checked two of the shift solenoids (SS1,SS3) with two o-rings on each, they kind of flattened, or it should be like this. May be there is no reason to change original solenoids o-rings to aftermarket yet. Same thing with valve body lube orifice, don't know is it worn or good.

 

[gsbarry]

I usually go by the feel of the rubber, if it is still soft and pliable then usually good, but if stiff then replace. Just be sure u have the exact same o-ring. I've had trouble before (actually on an air conditioning system) where the new o rings were not an exact match and they would not seal properly - ended up putting in the old ones in that case.

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

I usually go by the feel of the rubber, if it is still soft and pliable then usually good, but if stiff then replace. Just be sure u have the exact same o-ring. I've had trouble before (actually on an air conditioning system) where the new o rings were not an exact match and they would not seal properly - ended up putting in the old ones in that case.

Ok i'll check. Is solenoid o-rings replacement requires special installer, or it is possible pull them without?

 

[HiSpeedDirt]

Solenoid o-rings rubber is soft at least they not feels hard, but i'am still not sure about replacing to aftermarket o-rings.
My research of "unknown" rubber seals and o-rings continues. I contact the seller to find out which unit it belong, he respond "we don't know, and have no paperwork to each seal and rubber o-ring, if you have it you should know which unit it belongs". However i managed to identify seal number "4" as main control manual lever shaft seal, and number "5" as pump gear seal.