4R44E oil pump alignment tool.

[dsturdi]

Hello, I'm new and I guess I will start out with a bang. Does anyone have a 4r44e oil pump alignment tool I could borrow?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the transmissions section. Check WWW.EBay.Com & WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com.

 

[dsturdi]

Thanks for helping me get this where it belongs. I was hoping to beg/borrow/buy the alignment tool cheaper than new because I've spent so much already. None on ebay. I could easily make one if I knew the dimensions. I don't have the transmission out yet so I can't measure the diameters. I was hoping to have the tool ready when I removed the transmission. It's my college aged sons' truck and I hope to make a quick turnaround. Thanks to all who read. Roll Tide!

 

[PopRichie77]

Don't know what you are going to repair but the pump doesn't have to be removed from the bell housing, unless it needs to be replaced, or pump bearings replaced. If it is good then you don't need the alignment tool. Thought I would throw that in.

 

[dsturdi]

The truck was actually given to me by a relative who had driven it with a leaking transmission until it stopped moving. I added fluid and got it home in limp mode. I have installed a rebuilt 5r55e valve body I got on ebay. That made the truck drivable but it turns about 3400 at 70. I have a master rebuild kit, a "new" used front oil pump (where the alignment tool comes in), a remanufactured torque converter, a Superior shift kit, a Superior boost valve, and new TSS switch. I also have a 4r44e rebuilt valve body which raises the additional question - which valve body would you guys use in this 96 4r44e?
The 5r55e has the bonded gaskets and is supposed to be a Ford upgrade. All advice is considered and appreciated. I hope this makes some sense, I'm on night shift.

 

[BrooklynBay]

There are some differences between the 4R & 5R valve bodies such as hole spacing in the separator plate for one area, boost valve, check ball configuration, the TCC, and EPC solenoids. The 4R44E is used on 3.0L equipped vehicles while the 5R55E is used on 4.0L equipped vehicles.

 

[dsturdi]

O.K. Thanks for the info. Since the transmission got cooked I have had both rebuilt valve bodies in and although they both helped neither one helped more. I have a shift solenoid "C" fault with both so I know I have to go deeper. If there's no advantage to using the 5r VB I will stick with what came in it originally. I also have a new wiring harness for the solenoids. Mine is a 2.3L, a really nice truck, and you can't beat free. They just wanted it out of their driveway, thought there was no hope for it.

 

[dsturdi]

I just read a post from about 4 years ago where Glacier991 says he has a loaner 4r44e pump alignment tool. Are you still out there Glacier991? Can someone help me reach him? This forum stuff is all new to me.

 

[PopRichie77]

Don't think he lends tools anymore.

 

[dsturdi]

Thanks, I guess I'll use the torque converter.

 

[PopRichie77]

If you use the torque converter, see if you can wrap a piece of thin paper around it to take up the clearance in the bearing, also put the center shaft in and carefully snug all bolts up with your fingers then tighten some carefully before final torque.

 

[dsturdi]

Thanks for the advice. Although I've done machinist and mechanic work for a long time I've never rebuilt an automatic transmission. I don't have the tranmission out so I'm unsure how the pump, torque converter, and bell housing all mate up. For the paper solution am I shimming up the I.D. or the O.D. of the torque converter or both?

 

[PopRichie77]

I would suggest that you get an ASTG Manual, Then you will understand the repair procedures before hand, also tag and number each and every thrust washer or thrust bearing, starting with number one and correspond it with the manual, there are many and easy to mix up. The paper shim is to take up the clearance between the torque convert hub and the brass bushing in the pump. The center shaft also aids in alignment. This is not a recommended substitute for the alignment tool. The clutches are spring loaded and require a special tool to compress them for snap ring removal and installation, if you have a press you can improvise. Also read the 5R55E rebuild diary in this forum for the valve body, they are similar. Good Luck

 

[dsturdi]

Thanks for the advice and well wishes. I have the ASTG manual and have been studying it for over a week. I hope when I get inside it it will be easier than it seems reading that book. My plan now is to start next weekend and I will let you know how it goes. I hope my plan doesn't get changed. If I'm at the pump alignment point and there's a transmission shop open I will see if I can get them to align it for me.

 

[Jack Flash]

my limited experience tells me that you should always replace the torque convertor.

the rpm you stated sounds like the OD is probably gone and maybe the TC. most 3.0 Rangers that I have encountered have the 3:73 gears in the back. don't look for much less than 2500+ rpm at that speed.
,
,

J...old, retired..............did I mention old ?

 

[robcarz]

cheap pump tool

This is frowned upon by the experts but I used a 1" PVC pipe coupling to align the pump on my a4ld. Dangerously close to perfect inside and out. Hasn't leaked a drop yet.

 

[dsturdi]

Thanks again for the help guys. I will replace the torque converter and the PVC idea sounds good. In fact I had thought of making one out of PVC, not because I thought it was already close in size, just because it's easy to machine. I'm gonna try it. Do I use a schedule 40 or 80 coupling (white or grey)?

 

[PopRichie77]

PVC couplings from different manufactures are never exactly the same, I was in manufacturing all my life, I also was a machinist, From my point of view it would be better to machine one that fits snug to the bell housing bushing. I don't like this idea at all because the alignment tool also fits into the pump gear, it has flats milled on that end, you could also mill the flats on the pvc to match the torque converter. The best alignment tools also have a shaft in the center for proper alignment. Without the proper tool it is a hit or miss thing and a lot depends on your expertise. Improper alignment will wear the bell housing bushing, which is not replaceable, also the pump gear. I used the torque converter, paper and the center shaft, this worked well for me. I had to remove the trans after about 5,000 miles and the bushing and hub on the new torque converter showed no wear at all, so my alignment was right on. Make one with the flats on it, you could also bore it to fit snug on the center shaft, that's what I would have done if I still had access to a machine shop.

 

[BrooklynBay]

There are two places in the USA with a special lathe to machine a new bushing into place. You have to send the bell housing to them. They will also align the pump for you.

 

[PopRichie77]

Thanks for the reply BB, I knew of this but forgot to mention it.