4R55E valve body issues. | Ford Explorer Forums

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4R55E valve body issues.

CGordon

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May 12, 2010
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City, State
ontario
Year, Model & Trim Level
Ranger XLT 96
Guys need your help. I've search around for a while, but I'm in a time pinch and need to get my vehicle back on the road. So I'm posting here instead of starting a new post like I probably should. Sorry. Here's my issue.

I did the Ford rebuild posted about here (valve replace, gaskets, and sep plate). Put it all back together, and now have more codes showing up.

P0750 Shift Solenoid A
P1401 Differential Pressure feedback EGR Circuit hight input

Any ideas what might be causing this? I'm about to drain the fluid and drop the pain again once I'm off work. Hopefully the gurus will get this before then so I have some idea what to look for.

Symptoms= No high gear. Once the vehicle gets to about 70-80kms\hr I lose all gears. Once the truck slows to about 60kms\hr I get back in gear until I hit 7-80 again. Then repeat. City driving is fine. It's the high speeds that do it.

This might actually be useful in this thread incase someone else has this issue after a rebuild. I also noticed wires that attach to the solenoids had sections that were missing rubber\insulation around them and were bare. Could this be the problem?

Any help would be huge here guys, this is my work vehicle so I need to keep it alive.

Did I maybe not attach the harness to SS1 properly? It felt like it went on nice and snug. Ugh, I really need to put a drain plug on that pan. This will be messy. I'm also concerned that I've now blown the gasket again somehow.. Would it be worth checking that guys while I'm there? Is that possible.

Thanks in advance! Big Time!
 



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Gordon, how many miles are on the trans? Have you performed a band adjustment? Have you changed out the servos? Check if you have first gear engine braking. IIRC, if you do then your gaskets are good. Also, did you ohm test the solenoids and clean them out with brake cleaner while applying 12 volts to the shift solenoids? Do not apply 12 volts to the EPC solenoid, just clean it out with brake cleaner. I've got a like new red EPC if you think you need one...

P.S. you really need to install a drain plug ;]
 






Oh and I have to thank your guys for taking the time to write up such an amazing post. With out you guys I'd be complete broke. HUGE THANKS! You've saved my company\life in a lot of ways.
 






Iron,
250000 miles on it, Never adjusted the bands, Never changes the servos. The only thing that was wrong with it before hand was the flare issue. I'll try the engine braking in 1st to test the gaskets. I didn't ohm test the solenoids because they didn't seem to be a problem (just the flare based on DTC P0732 which doesn't show up anymore). I'll have to get an ohm meter to test the solenoids. And some break cleaner to clean them out. Thanks for the super fast response! I pretty much didn't touch anything that wasn't listed in the TSB 03-22-10.

PS I REALLY REALLY need a drain plug, I'm dreading getting soaked again. argh.
 






With any mileage over 50k, I'd do the EPC for sure, and it's not cheap. The shift solenoids are not bad at all, I changed at least two of mine. Definitely work your way in to the band adjustment nuts, and do those. Losing a gear is usually from one thing, a bad solenoid, broken band, no power reaching a solenoid etc.

Draining the pan is no big deal, skip the plug. Lower one side of the pan after removing most of the bolts from that side. Leave one side up, bolts almost snug there. That is easy, the messy part is when you loosen the VB.
 






Hallo
How many gears have you in city driving?OD blinking?
 






Yes the od light flashes as soon as i start the truck. I should have mentioned that... That's what let me to reading the codes...

In city I have 1,2, and 3rd gear. So driving is fine, until I need the 4th gear (high speeds) for the highway, then bam RPMS go way up, and no gears. Until it finds 3rd again after slowing down.
 






Gordon, just to be sure- we are talkin about your 93 Ex correct? Was the trans ever serviced before yo dropped it? Were there any chunks of metal in the pan?
 






Another qustion,reverse is ok?
 






Try check connecting solenoid nr3 in 4 gear must on
 






Yes reverse is fine. It's a 96 actually. I don't think it's had ever been serviced. Nothing other than a bit of fine metal debris in the pan.
 






Now it's throwing another DTC.

P0760 Shift Solenoid C.

Any ideas? I'm getting under there now. Wish me luck! Thanks for the responses thus far!
 






I should report that there was mild breaking when going from 2nd to first gear. So i'm guessing the gaskets are good. I might check anyways. Wow I can't believe I have to spend another 4hrs on my back.. Ugh.
 












Hey! Just tested for continutiy with a light tester, power seems to be getting through the harness because the light came on. So now what? I'm confused because everything worked before except the rough shift/flare problem? P0760? HELP? Covered in ATF while typing this... hehe
 






Did you test each wire in the harness from one point to another? What about the pins in the bulkhead connector? Did they appear to have corrosion? Was the connector loose? Are any pins bent or loose? Are there any signs of cracks in the connector?
 






Gordon, I've had similar problem with my 96 with the 4.0 ohv;200k miles. I got the P0760 and no 4th on the freeway. I found this thread and decided to try and fix the trans because i couldnt afford a 1500 trans rebuild. I dropped the pan and found no chunks, just sediment. From that assessment I adjusted the bands, replaced the servos, and picked up a valve body off ebay. So far she's doin great. I put almost 5k miles on her so far and she feels good. If I were you, I'd try adjusting the bands first. If they hold then I'd replace the servos too. 2 servos can be accessed on the pass side of the trans without dropping the pan. I replaced mine and the rubber compound on the servos had hardened to a brittle plastic. Did you ohm test the solenoids?

ADD:
I also want to add that my valve body came with a red band EPC and I decided to leave it in there. Bad choice because my shifting went to crap. Redrained the fluid from my new drain plug and swapped the red EPC that was in there for my oem green band EPC. Everything went back to normal and the trans shifts good! No codes or flashing OD light...
 






Did you test each wire in the harness from one point to another?
Yes, each connector turned on the light tester

What about the pins in the bulkhead connector?
Where is that? If you mean just the connectors all seemed fine. Nothing loose or bent

I have the shift selonoids out, but the spools won't slide out, how do i get them out? shouldn't they just come out? They seem stuck.
 









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Which steps in the rebuild dairy? Which pages?
 






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