- Joined
- February 2, 2002
- Messages
- 14,464
- Reaction score
- 5,286
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1998 Mountaineer AWD
I think you’re confusing your info. You CANNOT run a Second Gen without the CV Shafts. This is an absolute fact.Good morning, I do not know how to jump in here but this might be a good place to start. I have a 05 Explorer 4WD Automatic that has 160,000 miles and the complete drivetrain was worn out, everything. And if I need a 4wd where I drive then really do not need to be there. (Im 63). I have replaced the engine with a remanufactured. I removed the transmission and rebuilt it myself. The transfer case (TC) is on the bench and I am fixing a leak in the front output shaft. I have replaced all the bearings and seals in the TC. (Needs a Speedi Sleeve SKF 99162, auto parts stores have the wrong part number) I have replace the front and rear bushings, shocks, front upper and lower ball joints, torsion bar bushings and links, rear upper control arms, rear lower control arm ball joints and both rear hubs (as a complete kit). I have had this truck up in the air and ran it to determine how bad the rear differential was and replace it with a remanufactured one. My list goes on.
I am going to change my AWD to a 2WD. This is what I know from looking and learning and reading posts on here.
I have seen time and time again the suggestion that you cannot leave the front wheel bearings in without the CV shaft and let me say that I know you can. I have been to my local pick a part and seen with my own eyes the XLS models with the same front hubs but without anything in the wheel bearing to "hold" the bearing together. The statement of needing something to hold the bearing together is not true! Look closely at the wheel bearing. That inner part is a single piece of metal that runs through the pair of bearings and is subjected to the CV axles' constant bouncing around and abuse. So to remove both CV axles wont hurt a thing in fact lessen the wear and tear on the front bearings in each hub.
Now I have removed both front CV axles and the front differential which is worn out. I have removed the front driveshaft. I want to change out the 5r55s 4WD transmission with a 5r55s 2WD. The only difference is that the 2 WD has the extension housing and longer output shaft. The speed sensor is in the transmission. I know this as I have started and ran the 05 Explorer while is was up in the air on blocks and the 5r55s transmission attached to the 4.0 with no transfer case. There was problems running it and was able to simulate 90 MPH and miles added to the odometer. The ABS system has a fit as none of the ABS sensors in all 4 wheels were disconnected. You can test this for yourself.
From my personal experience with that Borg Warner transfer case: Then input shaft is connected to the output shaft to the rear wheels by a slip gear that depending on being in 4HI or 4 Low is either engaged in the high or engaged through the planetary gears to reduce shaft speed. Either way the truck cannot roll away. The 5r55s transmission has the locking mechanism in the rear that engages to keep it from rolling. Now the AWD is activated by the by the ABS system. The moment the ABS senses wheel slip, the AWD system engages the magnetic system to lock up the slip clutches in the transfer case sending power or torque to the front driveshaft and wheels. There is no sensor in the top of rear differential. The only ABS sensors for Advance trac are in the 4 wheel hubs and that module located under the center consul between the two front seats.
Sorry for the length of this.
So now when I get that shaft repair sleeve onto that front output shaft and the TC back together, I will disconnect that wire to the case and test drive my Explorer. If the Advance trac is happy. Then all I have to do is pull the 4wd fuses and will have my conversion from AWD to 2wd all tested and will proceed to the next step.
I am writing this as I have not found any credible information about converting from 4wd to 2wd and what to do.
After this test. I will sell my rebuilt 5r55s and transfer case and order the 5r55s as a re-manufactured transmission and replace it with the driveshaft. Then Ill have a 2wd with traction control that from my studies operates as good if not better than limited slip differentials. Which as I have learned that the latter will only last 20K miles or so the talk of needed a limited slip differential is not needed.
About the only thing I can think of is to have the engine management computer reflashed if it needs to be.
Now what do you think?
limited slip differentials last a lot more than 20k. I’ve got one with 160k and one with 220k. Both will spin the rear wheels on gravel, dirt or snow.