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4X4 Crunching/sqeeking?

Glen4X4

Explorer Addict
Joined
June 5, 2007
Messages
5,442
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12
City, State
Lewistown, Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLS
Well after takin the exploder through the back yard exercising the 4X4 so the tranfer case or nothing else locks up (I do this every so often if I havent used the 4X4 in a couple weeks) but anyway I looked through a couple diff. threads and have not found an answer, when I was driving its very noticable when you slightly turn the wheel it crunches a hellin someone 10-15 feet away would probably be able to hear it, the 4wheel drive is still working awesome, I tried goin up over a steep hill that normally would spin right away in 4X4 went up over it in high and low range and didn't buck or studder or anything and I know that you can't take sharp turns with it engaged but still it shouldn't be making them noises in 2wheel drive its fine just has some squeekyness with I think has to do with some fer bushing aint sure of that yet but, could the axle maybe need a greasing or what? Because I tried I left the hubs locked in and disengaged the transfer case and drivin turning still makes crunching/squeeking noises almost as bad as if the 4X4 was engaged, so any advice would be very helpful. Thanks to anyone that applies some advice/recomendations!!
 



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sounds to me like you may have some seized outer universal joints in your front end...

had to replace mine a few months ago, when I cut my wheels sharply in 2WD the front axles seemed to turn a bit and try to engage the auto hubs. Made a heck of a noise. I pulled the front axles and found the outer u-joints seized. Replaced them and it fixed the problem.

The joints weren't loose, they were seized so you couldn't tell there was anything wrong with them until you pulled the axles out.

Chris.
 






hmm...ok I was hoping and didn't think the axle was junk because it turning the front wheels with no problems and I purposely put stress on them to make sure the the axle wasn't going bad, how hard are they to replace by yourself or didn't you do your own?
 






Does your truck make this noise in 2H with the hubs unlocked? If so is the noise more or less than when 4H is on? It could be HUBs, wheel bearings, or U-joints. If you pull the hubs off you can inspect the wheel bearings for any signs of wear, crud etc..

U-joints last about 100K (less if you use 4x4 alot).. The stub axle U-joints (located right behind the rotors) always go 1st because they are always moving with changes in steering input. They don't rotate, but just flex in/out at the joint when turning.. This constant movement coupled with worn out u-joint seals wears down the needle bearings of the U-joint. Anyway U-joints aren't too difficult to do as long as you pickup the proper tools. The biggest Pain in doing them on a D35 axle is that you will need to remove the Hubs, wheel bearings, rotor, and spindle so you can pull the axle shaft out of the steering knuckle... IMO if your doing all this work you should also replace your ball joints at the same time..

Check the U-joint links in my sig below for info on using a "C" clamp tool (free AutoZone rental) to press them in/out.
 






I would jack up the front end, cut the wheels hard over and turn the wheels (by hand with the engine off) in both directions to make sure, but it sounds like u-joints.

It wasn't a really big job to replace them, pull the wheels and rotors off, take the spindles off and the axles pull out.

The passenger side has a slip joint and you need to replace one of the clamps when you put it back togeather because you only remove the outer axle on that side unless you really need to replace the inner u-joint as well. The inner u-joint is a PITA to change as the inner shaft doesn't come out unless you remove a clip from it inside the front diff. Much the same as removing a rear axle. Guys have tourched the inner out rather than take the front suspension apart. Mine was fine thankfully.

As far as changing a u-joint if you have never done one, there is a right way to do it and a wrong way. I have seen people use hammers, this IMHO is not the right way to do it. I have used a bench vice and various sizes of sockets with good results but there are small presses available for this job as well.

Get a maintenance manual for the truck and follow it. I replaced my grease seals and cleaned and repacked my bearings while I was there as well.

Hope this helps.
Chris.:thumbsup:

EDIT: I should remember to refresh my screen before I reply, but what he said too...
 






2wheel drive is fine, its just alil squeeky on bumps but, I did go out and look at the one universal joint on the right front and there is some play in it, like it moves and down a little and spun a little and make alittle bit of a sqeek with just hand motion sittin still, I know its not the wheel bearings I replaced them like 2 months ago or so and its not a rummble like they usually do when wheel bearings go bad, I also jacked it up and shook both wheels back and forth and they tight meaning they arent wobbily they're flush against the spindle. When I did the wheel bearings I noticed that joint had a little bit of play in it cuz i messed with it while the bearings were out an stuff but never thought anything of it. This does have a good bit of 4X4 time in it, this past winter I had to use it pretty frequently and the one time I couldn't help but use it for 50 miles of one round trip because of bad snow and used it to pull a big tree outta the way when the wind knocked it over so its no shame if something like that went bad I don't know what kind of stress and how long 4wheel drive parts last, this is the first I ever encountered this kind of problem.
 






Oh yeah I forgot I have a haynes manual for 91-2000 explorers so it should tell me how to replace them
 


















my number on the door reads 41 and im replacing for the front 4 wheel driver that connects to the front wheel on the passenger side because as you know on the thread earlier said bout it being kind of lose and crunchy like.
 






ok, I never replaced 4wheel drive parts before except for the hubs of course, so I'm a little lost with it lol
 












Kinda like wheel bearings if ones going out the other one probably isnt far from it, guess better get'em both done and over with all in one shot, thanks for the info!
 






When I done the wheelbearings I did them all. Your right it would be less of a pain if I'd do it while I'm at the point of tearing stuff apart. I've still gotta look at my Manual to see what all I've gotta do to do it and to make sure got all the tools I need.
 






ok, thanks for the thread links, I appreciate it.
 












The gearing has Zero to do with U-joint size. The big difference is whether your vehicle has a dana35 or dana28 axle.. MOST as in 99% of all explorers have Dana35 axles..

The front stub axles use u-joints 10297BF (inner "C" clips) 1.188" bearing caps while the front and rear drive shafts use 10153BF (use outer "Z" clips).
 






Yes i know ratio means nothing, but the place he was purchasing from was listing the joints by axle code = gear ratio, essentionally by axle itself and by code.

I see what you mean... I didn't have time to look over the page before.. Anyway I would spring the extra few $ and get the heavier duty u-joints as opposed to the 9.49 std duty ones...
 






that was advance auto that i was lookin at the ujoints on, and i know the advance around here say you wanna get brakes or as simple as windshield wipers they ask the engine size to even figure that out lol, but yeah I was thinking bout that because before winter I'd like to get rims off a 2nd gen like my dads 00XLT has and put some nice at's on and I dont know how much more strain that puts on it but I know I dont want to be out somewhere in 4wheel and a joint snap.
 



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