4x4 not working switch not lighting up ?

[Tango40]

93 explorer 4.0 switch not working what should i look for ,fuse,relay,were are they located,i need my 4x4 working on gas lines off road in west VA this week.thanks for any help.

 

[Opera House]

Are you handy

If you have never popped a motor apart with internal brushes, this is not for you.

This is the site that I often see it referenced.
Dead Link Removed
For more information search on www.explorer4x4.com

You can remove the shift motor assembly by first removing the dampening weight. The brown wire to the clutch can be cut if you don't have the tool to remove the pin from the connector. The speed sensor can be pulled out completely from the transfer case and this can be kept with the motor. The speed sensor has a magnetic tip which will likely have metal particles on it that needs to be cleaned off. The 2WD position is stamped on the transfer case and it seems to lock somewhat in that position. Mark this position on the shift motor assembly too. The switch cover is adjustable and you need to file a notch in the cover and case so it can be returned to the same position.

Not always the brushes
I highly recommend that you "run the motor in", operating it in both directions with the gear/switch plate removed. I recently rebuilt the one on my 92. This was the third time (about every 2-3 years). This time I decided to run in my motor on a bench power supply by removing the switch gear that has a stop on it. The encoder gear must be removed because it has a stop on it and won't do a full rotation. The motor drew over 4 amps and the bench power supply went into shutdown. This was after my normal application of lubricant. Worked in some really thin oil and it went down to 1 1/2 amps. Pulled it apart again with more bearing cleaning. After a little more "run in" the current was less than 3/4 amp. You should be able to run the motor off 12V with a brake lamp in series with the power leads . Motor should easily start in both directions. If it doesn't the motor is binding. When I removed my motor, it was electrically connected (brushes good) but too stiff. If the motor starts easily with the lamp in series, it is sure to operate fine in the car. This is an easy test that doesn't require any special equipment.

The motor drive electronics is PWM and unable to supply much more than 1 amp. The motor does not run on a full 12V (way too fast) and should be able to operate on 6V easily. When the motor draws too much the electronics goes into shutdown.

 

[Joe Dietz]

I have a spare working motor if you are interested...$35+shipping.