4x4 not working

[fixxxer]

Yes, that is correct

 

[energie]

wellthats good. guess ill have to tear the shift motor apart this week lol
i read the shift motor rebuild thread but it didnt say where to get those screw things that are typically the problem. is there a certain place, or if i take it to a parts store will they know wtf im talking about?

 

[fixxxer]

The typical problem is the plastic bumper, I used a short piece (about 3/4") of aquarium air hose to replace mine, you could probably also use a small diameter vacuum hose or rubber fuel line, just try to match the inside and outside diameter of the original bumper if there is anything left of it. You can just slide it right over the head of the screw once the old bumper stop is removed.

 

[DeRocha]

okay thanks.
i turned the axleshaft back, it locked and then i tried moving it and it wouldnt move
so that assumes that the hubs work? right?

Do you mean you turned the driveshaft? If so then it does indicate the hubs have locked and I am officially confused... I am confused because all you need to do for 4x4 to work is

• Press 4x4 and have both indicator lights come on
• have both hubs lock

Since you indicate both of the above has occurred your system should be working. So back to your 1st post, why/how do you not think the front wheels aren't being powered? It could be possible that one or both hubs are partially blown; by this I mean they lock when you turn the axle by hand which prevents, but when being powered by the T-case the hub could unlock under the force it exerts.

 

[energie]

yes but if the 4x4 light comes on, and the tcase isnt shifting into anything but the system still locks the hubs because of the auto hubs, then assuming that should be the tcase not working, i turned the shaft under the ttb that goes to both wheels. i backed it off and then it locked and then it wouldnt turn anymore.
i dont mind taking the tcase off if that fixed the problem, but thats the only thing i can think of being the problem..
or if the hubs didnt work, would it lock, but the hubs may not be doing the same thing?
or would it just keep spinning if the hubs didnt work?

 

[energie]

and i dont think it works because the front wheels dont turn
and i still spin out just as in rwd

 

[DeRocha]

yes but if the 4x4 light comes on, and the tcase isnt shifting into anything but the system still locks the hubs because of the auto hubs, then assuming that should be the tcase not working, i turned the shaft under the ttb that goes to both wheels. i backed it off and then it locked and then it wouldnt turn anymore.
i dont mind taking the tcase off if that fixed the problem, but thats the only thing i can think of being the problem..
or if the hubs didnt work, would it lock, but the hubs may not be doing the same thing?
or would it just keep spinning if the hubs didnt work?

If both 4x4 lights come on the T-Case is in 4x4. The lights only come on when the geared selector shaft has moved into the 4x4 indent which would cause the 4x4 indicator light wire(s) to make contact and illuminate the lights. If the front driveshaft doesn't rotate then something is broken inside the T-case.

 

[energie]

so if the driveshaft rotates but the wheels dont, the hubs are ####ed?

 

[DeRocha]

so if the driveshaft rotates but the wheels dont, the hubs are ####ed?

Not exactly.. when in 4x4 the drive shaft rotates along with ONE wheel (the one with the least traction for open diff)

 

[energie]

so if the one hubis ####ed on the wheel that normally spins and doesnt lock, the other one wont matter if it works or not?

 

[DeRocha]

so if the one hubis ####ed on the wheel that normally spins and doesnt lock, the other one wont matter if it works or not?

With an open differential if one hub is busted then your screwed. The drive shaft will initially send power to the diff and then to both axles. Once the axle with the good hub locks it will stop rotating as the open diff sends power to the axle with the least resistance (you don't get any less than an unlocked hub). The axle shaft just free spins within the broken hub and the locked hub will Never move..

If you have a locking differential then both axle shafts would rotate the same. So if a hub broke you'd have 4x3...

 

[energie]

anyone have a picture of what the hub should look like inside?
i took mine apart but didnt know if there was 'alot of grease' or 'just enough'
thanks.

 

[SteveH - Colo]

The inside of any locking hub should be *lightly* greased - like 1/16" of an inch thick smeared on parts. Big thick globs of grease in the hub serve no purpose, and will not play well at 10-15 below zero temperatures. Filling the hub with grease will not 'keep water out' and can create a suction that can make taking the hub apart more difficult. I'm sure others here will feel differently about this...

 

[energie]

i took mine apart
well one anyway
it looked pretty thick in there, there wasnt even all that much but it was seized up pretty good, i could barely get any of the parts off. dont know if thats how its supposed to be but the grease was ####in thick.

 

[walterd140]

Don't know if this means anything to you, but I just had my front end done at the garage. Mech said the unit on the early models is a torque required type. I blew every u-joint in the front axle, and had no torque. So when I hit the button, it lit but I had no 4x4. If your u-joints are bad then the unit senses no torque being applied & will lite up, but not engage. If your hubs look decent, then maybe you need to check the joints out.

 

[DeRocha]

Don't know if this means anything to you, but I just had my front end done at the garage. Mech said the unit on the early models is a torque required type. I blew every u-joint in the front axle, and had no torque. So when I hit the button, it lit but I had no 4x4. If your u-joints are bad then the unit senses no torque being applied & will lite up, but not engage. If your hubs look decent, then maybe you need to check the joints out.

Your U-joints would need to be broken completely so they no longer connect the stub axle to the inner axle for the hub not to get torque. This would make a hell of a racket if you engage 4x4 with axle shafts flopping all over the place. A driver's side U-joint failure is worse because there is no "C" clip inside the differential to retain the inner axle and it would walk out in 4x4. This would cause a loss of fluid and the need for a new axle seal.

 

[JTX]

Ya walterd if your mechanic told you every u-joint was bad you may wanna look for a new one. There is no torque sensor in the transfer case. It's either in 4x4 or not. If the light is on and the front drive shaft spins it's the hubs. Stock hubs suck period, there as reliable as the 12 year old that mows my lawn.

 

[energie]

are there any cheaper warn manual hubs out there?
and do you need a conversion kit? or just slap them on?
some guy at some offroad place in town here quoted me like $350+ and im like..bullshit.

 

[JTX]

Milemarker makes some to. You will need the conversion kit which is basically a spindle nut and washer for each side. I'll see if i can find you a better deal.

 

[JTX]

Hubs - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WARN...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I will sell you a lock out kit for $30 if your interested.