4x4 toast?

[tjsxplodr]

Ok, so I searched thru several threads and haven't found exactly what I am looking for. When I push the 4x4 button on my x, and drive, there's this AWEFUL 'CLUNK' noise that seems to be coming directly from underneath the x. The x feels like it lurches also a bit when the 4x4 is engaged. Anyone have this happen to them? Is this the transmission going bad?

 

[MrQ]

That's the TC engaging. You might have a bad case. When was the last time you changed the fluid in it?

 

[tjsxplodr]

I didn't realize the TC had fluid levels to check, I've not checked it since I bought it a few months ago. Guess that's my first thing to check.

 

[Maniak]

A single clunk when it goes into 4x4 can be normal. It usually won't happen every time, but it can once in a while.

You mentioned its "lurching". Are you running the 4x4 on pavement? The part time transfer case in the 1st generation explorer can only be used on a surface where the tires can slip. This means Dirt/snow/ice etc.. Not pavement, or even wet pavement. The drive line will wind up and either lurch/jump or eventually, something will break.

~Mark

 

[tjsxplodr]

The clunking happens when I hit the button and the 4x4 lights up on the dash, it doesn't stop for awhile, even after I switch it off. Yeah, I was testing the 4x4 on dry pavement, won't do that again lol.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Ok, checked the TC levels, that's fine and the fluid is in good condition....

 

[tjsxplodr]

Bump.

 

[Mettler]

Check your U joints on the drive shaft to the front diff.

 

[KobeJ05]

Check your U joints on the drive shaft to the front diff.

also check both differental fluid.

 

[tjsxplodr]

I just had the rear differential fluid changed when I had them do the rear brakes and the rear axle seals.

I replaced the front diff fluid just about a month and a half ago.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Check your U joints on the drive shaft to the front diff.

Where exactly would I be looking for anything bad? In the u joint itself?

 

[94Sport5Sp]

Hi:

Assuming that "The clunking happens when I hit the button and the 4x4 lights up on the dash,..." means with the vehicle sitting at idle and wheels not rolling. This would then indicate a problem in the transfer case or transmission. If the clunk you hear is only when moving then the problem could in the drive shaft to front diff, or drive axles (front), or hubs.

What we would really need to know is when the clunk is the vehicle moving/stationary, and when the clunking goes away was the vehicle moved? Do you have manual or automatic? How long before clunking stops? Anything like that would help.

PaMnd

 

[tjsxplodr]

Its only happening when the x is moving down the road. Doesn't happen when I hit the button. Feels like lurching every few seconds. Takes quite awhile for it to stop after I've turned off the button.

 

[tjsxplodr]

I tried it this morning just now. When its at idle in neutral, I hear a click, then the 4x4 button lights up. I tried LOW RANGE, and nothing....

 

[94Sport5Sp]

Hi:

Since the problem only occurs when moving that would indicate a drive train problem. This is good because it is easier (less expensive) to fix.

By lurching do you mean "the x feels like it wants to stop and then it moves forward" almost like the x was encountering an object to drive over but no bump to go over? If so then this would imply one of the front u joints is seized or seizing. In your opening question you also mention a clunk. Does the clunk only occur when you first engage the 4 x 4 or is it also present when the lurching occurs? If both clunk and lurch are present while driving then this would imply a two different problems. In that case I would suspect the front hubs as well as the front U joints.

To test for both of the above condition you need to raise the front wheels off the ground. One at a time will work but if you can do both then so much the better. I am going to assume you have automatic hubs. With the wheel off the ground you should be able to grab the wheel and rotate it. This will give you a feel for how hard it is to turn. Under the x behind the wheel you should see axle shaft coming from the front diff ending at a U joint at the wheel. You can either turn the front axle by hand (could be hard) or you can put a sturdy bar into the U joint to prevent the U joint from turning and then turn the wheel. If the hub engages then the bar will bind the U joint. This will indicate that the front hub is engaged and that wheel is now in 4 x 4. Remove the bar if you used it. Remember if you change the direction of rotation you will disengage the front hub. Note: This test does not require using the dash switches to engage/disengage the 4 x 4.

Now rotate the wheel by hand. If extremely hard then the U joint is seized. If you hear a ratcheting sound then the front hub is rubbing gears trying to engage. Repeat this test for the other wheel. You may only find one wheel is bad.

Let us know.

PaMnd

PS: Your last post of 4-low would indicate a shift motor problem which we can deal with later.

 

[briwayjones]

How fast are you going when you engage the 4wd? On the 1st gens you shouldn't be going more than about 20MPH when you engage it in 4High. To shift into 4LOW you have to be completely stopped and in neutral if you have an automatic and in neutral or with the clutch pushed in if you have a manual trans.

 

[94Sport5Sp]

Hi:

This information is for clarity only.

This is a quote from the Explorer Owners Manual (93 & 94 have the same info) on using the 4x4 Touch Drive:

“ To shift into 4x4, push the 4x4 button located on the instrument panel. This shift can be done at a stop or at speeds up to 55 mile per hour (88 km/h). When the vehicle is driven, the automatic locking hubs will engage. If the vehicle is stopped while in 4x4 and the vehicle direction is reversed from the previous direction, the automatic locking hubs will momentarily disengage and reengage. ...

- At extremely low temperature, it may be necessary to slow down or even stop to shift from two wheel drive to 4x4.

- The initial shift from two-wheel drive to 4x4 while the vehicle is moving can cause some momentary clunk and ratcheting sounds. This is the from drive train coming up to speed and the automatic locking hubs engaging and is not a cause for concern.”

Shifting in 4x4 Low will not occur unless you are stopped.

Thanks
PaMnd

 

[tjsxplodr]

Ok here's the deal. I put in 4x4 mode just to test the wheels out in the front. WOW! It was at a stop, in neutral when I engaged it. When I tried to turn the wheel either direction, it felt like the LEFT wheel was hopping. I can barely get my X to drive forward in either direction with the 4x4 engaged. The clunk is more like a popping noise now that I really got to listening. Its LOUD and its HARD. That's why I thought it was lurching forward. Something is VERY wrong in my front end with the 4x4! When I drove down the street, the popping didn't stop. It didn't start to happen until the X was in motion, however. It took 15 minutes for all noises to stop in the front end.

ok, I did not know that you had to push in the clutch to get the 4Low into gear, I didn't try that, just hit the button....I tried the clutch in, and the light came on. At least that's something.

 

[Mettler]

That sounds more like a bad diff. If youve ever blown a ring and pinion it sounds like a loud TINK TINK TINK, as the broken teeth on the ring gear roll past a couple broken teeth on the pinion. That is a way different problem.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Correct me if I'm wrong, cuz I am still trying to figure out this 4x4 stuff since I've never owned one before, but wouldn't a bad differential have noises all the time, not just when the 4x4 is engaged? And that wheel hop was horrible, it scared me pretty bad, I mean I was in a parking lot so not going faster than like 1mph lol, but still!