5 spd clutch/slave help please!

[91NavSport]

I've jumped into replacing the clutch, only to be thwrated time and again by problems.

How is the hydraulic line disconnected from the slave cylinder "quick connect?"

Do I need a special tool?

Does fluid drain out when the line is disconnected?

I assume that I should replace the slave while the tranny is off. Is the bleed procedure easy?

Perhaps more importantly, since I have struggled so hard and am only just now at the point to start unbolting the transfer case and tranny from the engine, should I surrender and take it to a mechanic?

Are there nasty challenges ahead that I should let a pro handle?

I completed the clutch replacement in a Mitsubishi 3000GT in less hours than I already have invested in this project so far!

"Fools jump in where wise men fear to go." Please tell me if I should turn back!

 

[Rick]

http://www.explorer4x4.com/bleed.pdf

 

[Crizz]

There´s no need to disconnect the slave, if you have a transmission jack that holds up the transmission during work, you can replace the clutch without any work at the hydraulic lines. Changed the shaft-sealing ring from engine to transmission at my ´90 XLT last week, was´nt a big deal ( just took 5 hrs - urgh ! )

 

[91NavSport]

Hmmm...

I'd love to skip replacing the slave along with the bleeding process. The tranny does tend to grind into reverse though. Does that mean the slave is going bad?

Where can the slave disconnect tool be bought or can the hydraulic line be disconnected using something else?

 

[Jason94sport]

If your going to do this work you should replace every part of the clutch system. Do it right the first time. The tool for the line you should be able to get at any auto store.

 

[91NavSport]

Yup, Autozone had the tool. Pray for me, I'm continuing the job.

Any wise advise for the engine/tranny demate and remate processes?

 

[Crizz]

We detached at first the crossrail under the transmission, then removed the exhaust manifolds on both sides. Gives you enough space around the transmission to reach all screws. Need to detach the starter, too. Then remove the reardrive axle and axle from tranni to the transfer case. I´ve marked the position of the axles, cause they looked like they´re balanced.
After all of that remove the screws of the tranni case , VSS ( it´s easier to remove the complete VSS with speedo-shaft than only the shaft - esp. the reassembling ), hydraulic line and pull the trannicase slowly backwards. Now you can remove the cover and the clutch ( springplate, frictionplate etc. ).

Take care : if you had run the car a few miles, the clutchparts are veeeery hot..

 

[91NavSport]

Thanks Crizz. The Xfer case is now off along with everything else. Now its time to pull the tranny off the engine.

Any additional advise for the reassembly?

 

[Crizz]

Same way back like disassemling. Just remember to clean the coverplate carefully and apply a sealer ( s.e. like silicone ). Clean all screws before inserting ém again. Those from the axles usualy loked with something like Loctite - hard to clean. If you know anyone having a sandblasting cabinet it´s the easiest way.

For setting the tranni on the engine gearing should be idle. (It´s easier to adjust the position ).

Guess you had no probs removing the gearlever even if I haven´t told you how ( and to part the exhaust sys beyond the catalyst... )

 

[91NavSport]

Ah yes, the gear lever... That took hours. First, it took a while to figure out the wedge bolt in the shift lever knuckle. Then one of the little star-head screws broke one T-25 tool and bent two more and still was stuck. Thank God for my dremmel. I shaped the edge of the screw into a hex and used a 6-point socket to get it off. Whoever put the last clutch in for the previous owner overtightened and damaged most of the fasteners.

This exhaust system is welded solid all the way back from the Y-joint. The top nut (really tough to access) in the flange was already rounded off. I had to slice the nut with the dremmel where it met the flange to get it off.

This how the entire job has gone (twenty excruciating hours) and I am just now unbolting the tranny from the engine. The top bolts are challenging me now.

Please God, have mercy. All guidance from my fellow Explorer owners is so appreciated...

 

[Crizz]

For the top-bolts I used a 3-ft-extension ( ! ) for the impact wrench ( hope you know what i mean... ). I know it´s difficult to get ´em, but it´s only a matter of the right tools. Hope you´ll get this job done w/o any further probs.
Good luck !

 

[91NavSport]

3 ft extension needed to break it loose, or for access?

So many of my bolt corners are damaged that I am having to use 6-pt sockets the next closest size larger to keep from rounding them the rest of the way off!

If it doesn't rain, I'll be back at it tonight...

 

[Crizz]

I needed this long extension for a straight line for driving the screws. It´s not very good using a cross-adapter : looks like somebody before you did - cause the result looks the same way you describe.

A cross-joint blocks, depending on the angle, and sets on the screw lop-side. Better try to get them driven as straight as can. ( if you have very small hands maybe a short extension is the better choice ).

 

[91NavSport]

Were you able to reach the very top two bolts from underneath the vehicle by tipping the tranny downward, or are thay only reachable from the top down past the intake manifold?

Maybe I should invest in an impact wrench some day...

 

[Crizz]

We only worked underneath the car. For the two top bolts the extremly extension was used. Tranni in a little downwards position, the top bolts removed before those placed at the sides. Hope you have two helping hands to assist you, for only one man it´s horrible.

 

[91NavSport]

Crizz - Thanks for all the advice. I'll see what i can do to get some help!

 

[Crizz]

no prob, Nav - ya´re welcome all that matters is to get this job done best as can

 

[91NavSport]

Sure enough - the 3-foot extension is the way to get the upper bolts out!

Tranny is off, tons of clutch facing fibers and powder everywhere. I wonder if my son (it's his truck) killed it or can a poorly releasing slave destroy the clutch disk?

 

[jimbo74]

yes a non releasing clutch slave can make the disk always slip and cause premature and very fast clutch failure.....

 

[Crizz]

Like Jim wrote - it can. Before reassembling the tranni make sure the slave works properly.

If you disconnected the line, remember to vent / exhaust air from the line before start the first trip.