5r55e rebuilt 30k oil change cut open filter and loose band adjustment | Ford Explorer Forums

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5r55e rebuilt 30k oil change cut open filter and loose band adjustment

donalds

Elite Explorer
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Stem
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 ford explorer sohc
I cut open my transmission filter because it was the first oil change since the rebuild 30k on this filter Here is what I found any thing to worry about

Also when I was checking for leaks out of pure curiosity I reached up and tried to turn the band adjustment screw it unscrewed it wasn't wobble loose the jam nut just broke free with my fingers

I did a band adjustment backed off the jam nuts and tightened the adjustable part to 100 in lb ...that is the highest my in lb torque wrench will go ... and backed off 2 turns tightened the jam nut as much as I could one jam nut by the neutral safety switch gear selector thing not sure what it's called it was in the way for my fp torque wrench so I had to use a box wrench I'm pretty sure it's close to the 35lb spec

Test drive seems like it shifts a little more positive more of a jerk when it shifts not in a bad way I noticed this the most in 2-3 and 3-4 and 4-5
Like I said just a little more of a jerk when it shifts

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From the pictures, that doesn't look bad, but normal. The little pieces in the caught in filter probably entered the transmission during reassembly, it all depends on how clean the shop, and meticulous the builder was.
 






Maybe @BrooklynBay can shine some light on the loose band
I'm just not sure
 






The factory adjustment is okay, but TransGo had a different method and amount, which worked well for mine for over 75k miles. I have their VB kit in it too, but the band adjustment is not related much to what's done in the VB. I recall it being a tighter adjustment, like most preferred build standards of rebuilders.
 






The factory adjustment is okay, but TransGo had a different method and amount, which worked well for mine for over 75k miles. I have their VB kit in it too, but the band adjustment is not related much to what's done in the VB. I recall it being a tighter adjustment, like most preferred build standards of rebuilders.
It's funny I just reached up and tried to turn the lock nut and it loosened it was finger tight
That's the only reason I adjusted it I did watch how many turns they had it was1.75 out I split the difference when I put it back like almost to turns
Just took me off guard it was only hand tight
 






You could have just locked it where they had it. They likely forgot to lock the jamb nut to the adjustment nut, because it takes two wrenches to do that and they left it until last.

Check both of the band jamb nuts, in case they missed the other one too.
 






Will do
 






Well turns out the transgo spec isn't all that different than I did
Thanks @BrooklynBay
5R55E specification chart from Transgo.

I checked both the intermediate band was set to the transgo so I set them both the same way Bc I also had the tools out thanks
 






Ok guys am second guessing myself

I added a extra stock magnet to my pan now it has two I'm not sure if I put it in a good location or not
Its not making contact with the filter in any way
Just not sure of where I put it

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That's my original pan ...dented tried to fix it it leaked... so I got a oem junk yard pan with a magnet and it that's how I got the extra magnet

Thank you for your information am I just worried about nothing
Thanks again
 






Yeah, no harm to use the extra magnet. Those do catch rare bits of metal, and it's better to do that than have it fill the filter.
 






Time for new fluid again already lol:)
Rear diff to
 






Hay guys is it a good idea to check / re torque the valve body bolts while I'm changing the filter?

Got about 60 k on this trans and diff fluid
 






Hay guys is it a good idea to check / re torque the valve body bolts while I'm changing the filter?

Got about 60 k on this trans and diff fluid

That wouldn't hurt, one of the worries of the 5R is gaskets blowing out, which is more from the deep passages above the VB, vibrating from pressure changes. If you do re-torque them, be somewhat sure the 1/4" torque wrench is working accurately. Any wrench is sensitive sometimes with low torque levels, and the 1/4" size is kind of less robust, in most off brands people buy. I also have a cheap one, I would trust a high end Snap-On much more.

Test it on a valve cover bolt or similar small 1/4"-5/16" bolt like those. The 100inlbs level is kind of easy to feel by hand using a short ratchet and just your wrist. If it feels like the torque wrench clicks when it should with other small bolts like the VC or pan bolts, then it should be working well to do the VB bolts.
 






Diff service today
that lube locker gasket is awesome thanks guys
Paint the cover
...with the oldest can of black paint I found on the shelf ....

Boy do I smell :(
 






Changed the trans filter and fluid that came out
The FACTORY gasket is a thing of the past
Won't have the spacers but they still make the cork gasket
Very high quality
So.... I had 1.5 original used gaskets and a really good punch
Old gaskets had a pattern for me and the spacers ....if have like 20 extra from both old gaskets
Just put the old one on the new one
Y'all see what's going on here
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old picture for reference
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I thought for sure I was gonna catch crap over why I took this much time to make this proper gasket
 






It's cool that you spent the time to make that, but the cork material will leak after enough years. Is there not a choice which has no cork in it?

I'm going to have to work on my old 1973 C6 transmission soon, I hope there's a decent gasket for that pan when I look.
 






Is there not a choice which has no cork in it?
I found some aftermarket fiber or rubber

The cork has not leaked when the rubber did and I'm not using rtv
Maybe I don't have any problems with cork because it only takes like 2-3 years to get to 30-50k for us
 



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I found some aftermarket fiber or rubber

The cork has not leaked when the rubber did and I'm not using rtv
Maybe I don't have any problems with cork because it only takes like 2-3 years to get to 30-30k for us
Your intervals on cork will be just fine. Cork isn’t the best for a project vehicle that is gonna sit years 10 years between pan drops, but 3 years is nothing to worry about. I’m pretty sure the materials mixed in the cork now are better than they were 20 years ago.
 






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