5r55e rebuilt 30k oil change cut open filter and loose band adjustment

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, cork never was a problem until several years later from being new. I just keep my vehicles longer than most people do, and most gaskets don't get changed often.

 

[410Fortune]

"A" for effort!! Putting the metal spacers into the cork gasket = well done!!
Glad to see you keeping up on the maintenance! You should have a drain plug in that pan so you can change fluid without dropping it??

 

[donalds]

"A" for effort!! Putting the metal spacers into the cork gasket = well done!!
Glad to see you keeping up on the maintenance! You should have a drain plug in that pan so you can change fluid without dropping it??

usually just pump the fluid out and change it that way
But I wanted to change the filter and check the valve body bolts
I had a bad o ring on the dipstick

However I won't be dropping the pan any time soon because the filter was clean
I'm happy with that

The gasket was more of a I want the original style gasket just for me
Just fun

 

[410Fortune]

I see!! Well done

Dipstick O rings you gotta lube those suckers so they slide in without tearing

This 5r will last forever if you keep up the maintenance like this
I change the filter at 500 miles on a fresh build trans and then again at 2000 miles..... cheap insurance!!

Kudos for opening up that filter and having a look inside. What brand filter is that?

 

[donalds]

What brand filter is that?

 

[floridacatfan]

I’m getting ready to do this at about the 30k post rebuild - anything else I should check for?

What torque should the vale body bolts be ?

 

[donalds]

sure

 

[allmyEXes]

@donalds Looks sounds good! I know it is a different Generation but I'm close to removing the A4LD out of my '92. It sounded like a band broke when it failed me. It only has 18k since the rebuild. I'm hoping for a simple fix and not have to tear into it too far but it may have to come out to fix it. I wonder if it could be repaired in chassis. Since the fluid will have to come out anyway should I pull the pan and VB to look? I can stand up under the new lift to remove the pan. Thanks for any insight. I didn't want to start a new thread...

 

[donalds]

@donalds Looks sounds good! I know it is a different Generation but I'm close to removing the A4LD out of my '92. It sounded like a band broke when it failed me. It only has 18k since the rebuild. I'm hoping for a simple fix and not have to tear into it too far but it may have to come out to fix it. I wonder if it could be repaired in chassis. Since the fluid will have to come out anyway should I pull the pan and VB to look? I can stand up under the new lift to remove the pan. Thanks for any insight. I didn't want to start a new thread...

You can start a new thread or just keep it going here up to you
As for your question I have no idea

 

[CDW6212R]

@donalds Looks sounds good! I know it is a different Generation but I'm close to removing the A4LD out of my '92. It sounded like a band broke when it failed me. It only has 18k since the rebuild. I'm hoping for a simple fix and not have to tear into it too far but it may have to come out to fix it. I wonder if it could be repaired in chassis. Since the fluid will have to come out anyway should I pull the pan and VB to look? I can stand up under the new lift to remove the pan. Thanks for any insight. I didn't want to start a new thread...

The bands usually can usually be seen and checked for being broken, through either the hole where the band piston goes(drop that accumulator piston), or another hole up in the case near the band. Usually using a long thin screwdriver to push the band up(in that band piston hole), will let you feel the band tighten up against its drum, or it won't change the feel much at all.

 

[floridacatfan]

Thx Donald - that’s a ****load of bolts - I’ll post my results if anything interesting - I pimpled about 3/4 fluid out through the top. Hope that keeps it less messy

 

[Floridacatfan2020]

Could anyone give me any ideas on how much the pan could be warped and still get a good seal - I’m following Donald’s lead and changing my filter and gasket 30 k after a rebuild

With the pan on a concrete floor I see it could be maybe 3/16 inch warpage or out of flat - it’s pretty wembly - I’ll buy another one if that will keep it from leaking - I’m not which to buy if I did - it’s a 2 wheel drive 5r55e

 

[donalds]

I can't find a 2wd pan
You can use a 4wd pan and a 4wd filter

 

[Floridacatfan2020]

Thx Donald - I won’t spend any more time looking for one - if there was a aftermarket one out there you would have found it - I’ll just go with the pan I have - your help is appreciated - I gotta get this thing out of the garage

 

[donalds]

Rtv the PAN side of the gasket. Small amount of rtv and I mean that

Clean clean clean prep is Super important here

I'm very happy to help

 

[Floridacatfan2020]

Which rev do you recommend for it ? I see Toyota has a tube on Amazon people rave about.

 

[donalds]

I just used ultra black rtv
But my favorite is Hondabond

 

[Mbrooks420]

Ultra Black and Hondabond are excellent products.

 

[donalds]

I also recommend Lubegard 60902 Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz. , RED​

 

[Floridacatfan2020]

I completed my pan from and filter removal - very impressed with the lack of debris - slightly delayed to wait on hondabond and needed a longer bolt for the filter as AAmco put a non motorcraft filter in with shorter filter (flange) bolt (- 89 inch lbs I assume) I still think the servos are leaking past the caps but I’m ready to put the pan back on.