5r55w slips shifting 1-2 & possible tc lock-up issue

[monkeybuttons]

I own an 02 limited 4x4 with 70k miles. It currently slips when shifting 1-2, but mostly under heavy load/acceleration. It shifts okay if I granny it. I haven't found many posts about 1-2 shift problems.

I talked to a Ford tech and he said it sounds like the intermediate clutch is slipping, but the 5r55w doesn't use an intermediate clutch. I can't seem to find what IS slipping (i.e. what clutch set is used in the 1-2 shift). I have read many posts in the forums and repair/part manuals and guides and I still don't know.

Also, it seems the tc will lock-up then unlock every 2-5 seconds sometimes, both under light and heavy acceleration. It may even do it while cruising, but I haven't noticed it. The Ford tech said that is from a bad valve body.

What do you transmission guy's think?

Oh, I don't know when the transmission fluid was last changed because I've only owned it for 5 months. Could a simple fluid change fix these problems? I checked the level and it is correct. -Sorry for the long post-

 

[monkeybuttons]

Maybe my first post was too long or asked too many questions.

Does anyone know which clutch the 5r55w uses to shift from 1st to 2nd gear?

 

[monkeybuttons]

Took it to a Ford dealer today. There weren't any codes because cel hasn't lit and od light hasn't flashed. They verified it is slipping, "reflashed the pcm", didn't fix it, flushed the transmission (the fluid was lightly burnt), and still slipping. They recommended a new transmission due to internal problems.

I asked them what the problem is and they said they don't know. They just replace the transmission when there is an internal problem.

I have been thinking about it, and I wonder if the overdrive band is the 'clutch' when shifting into 2nd. Therefore maybe the overdrive servo bore is worn and the servobore repair kit would fix the problem?

Should the overdrive band be replaced as well, since it has been slipping? Or is it okay since the problems are in the beginning stages?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[monkeybuttons]

No one huh? That's fine. I guess I will just have to tear it down and see what is burnt/damaged. Don't really want to dig into the internals if I don't have to.

I am thinking about the Transgo shift kit. Does this require any modification of the valve body? I have read that the reprogramming kit does, but haven't found anything definitive for the sk.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

Automatic transmissions have become so complicated and advanced it is often not economical for transmission repair centers to take the time to isolate the exact issue. Even then, to find and discover the issue often requires taking the transmission out of the vehicle to take it apart. At that point there is not much more work to just go ahead and replace all the clutches, bands and all wear items. And automatics from all manufactures can differ widely in the theory of operation.

That is not to say though that it is not economical for you to take the time to isolate the issue and fix it yourself.

I do know that sometimes the solenoids can get dirty and tired. Some people have solved their issues from replacing the solenoid block.

See this link: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164055

 

[drdoom]

...it is often not economical for transmission repair centers to take the time to isolate the exact issue.

And it is almost ALWAYS not economical for the vehicle owner to just replace an entire transmission.

 

[ranger7ltr]

Or you could try to adjust the bands and see if the problem gets better....

 

[monkeybuttons]

Thanks for the information guys. It just might be the solenoid block or valve body. Read on and let me know if you still think so.

I took the transmission apart and the hard parts look good. The forward clutch has .081" clearance (supposed to be .051-.079). I will get a thicker snap ring as suggested by ATSG manual to get the clearance I need. The ring has been blued as well, so that clutch pack definitely got warm.

There is also some bluing on the "reverse drum and low sprag assembly". Here is a link to the pictures:
http://s1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee517/monkeybuttons/

Question: What is the underlying cause of the bluing on the sprag assy? The ring is easy - the forward clutch was slipping. The sprag assembly is not so easy. Any ideas?

Also, there is a discrepancy between the ATSG manual and the ratiotek pdf. Ratiotek says the direct clutch clearance is 0.055 - 0.065", but ATSG says 0.051-0.079". Which one is correct?

And God bless our service men and women fighting for our freedoms, and God be with those who lost loved ones as a result of 9/11/01.

 

[monkeybuttons]

I was looking at the RatioTek pdf and the reverse brake drum pictured there has the same blue heat mark, so I am assuming it's normal.

That leaves the cause of the forward clutch slippage. Any ideas on a root cause? Thanks in advance!

Sorry for all the Q's. Just on a tight budget. Dumb question: Do I absolutely need an overhaul kit (for seals and gaskets)? Am I running a big risk by NOT installing one? Don't want to spend the money, but really don't want to pull the trans again.

 

[monkeybuttons]

Finished, but...

So I finally got the transmission rebuilt and installed. Everything works.....but I was expecting firmer shifts with the Transgo shift kit. The tcc lock-up is definitely more positive than before, but everything else still seems soft/slow.

Here is what I did:
Installed overhaul kit
Installed Transgo Shift Kit (including pump valve)
Installed servobore repair kit 5RW
Replaced Forward clutch friction discs
Flushed cooler
Drained, filled, drained torque converter
Installed external filter kit and new internal filter
Refilled with Mercon V and verified proper level before test-drive

Everything else was with-in tolerance including front/rear end clearance and solenoid/sensor resistances.

I have read of guys chirping their tires into 2nd gear with this shift kit, but mine still takes at least 1/4 second for the 1-2 shift (same with 2-3 which was/is normal).

So, is everything ok, or do I still have a problem??? Someone with experience with this shift kit and transmission, I would love to hear your experiences!

Sorry for the long post. I just try to get you guys updated with what I've done so far.

 

[monkeybuttons]

Funny story:

Truck has been making a sort of swooshing noise heard mainly from the passenger side, almost like a slight exhaust leak. I only noticed it after my transmission rebuild. Didn't spend a LOT of time looking into it because of the elk hunt coming up.

Couple of weeks later I'm cruising down the freeway at 75 when a horrible, loud clattering/banging starts. I immediately pull over and shut her down. I think something went wrong with the rebuild, maybe torque converter related. I'm 1 mile from my fathers house so he tows me to his garage where we check the torque converter. The nuts are sort of loose, but otherwise everything looks good. I start it up in his garage and it's still there. I immediately think exhaust leak now that I'm paying more attention to the precise sound it's making, but I'm still not sure. I have my dad start it for me while I'm staring at the engine and I see sparks flying!?! Come to find out, it spit out one of the spark plugs and the rubber boot had come off the coil and it was arcing on the fuel rail! EEEK! Luckily the spark plug just threaded back into the head without a fuss. The swooshing noise is gone now to. Must have been air leaking past the spark plug before it was finally thrown.

Moral of the story: Periodically re-torque your spark plugs! You may not luck out like I did. There are many stories of striped-out threads leading to expensive fixes. Just Google it. It's apparently a common Ford problem.

BTW, I have 71000 miles on my 2002 Explorer.

 

[tmaher]

No codes? O/D light blinking? i experienced over-rev during 1-2 shift, 2003 explorer, XLT 4WD. had to lift off gas to get into 2nd gear. I found in this forum a fix requiring a new O/D servo with the shaft machined to accept 2 viton o-rings. A1JE is the company who makes this modified part. Apparently, the bore gets worn and leaks fluid by the shaft causing shift failure. I ordered the part, had it installed, and no more issues. SHifts like the day it was new. Might be your problem.