91, cuts out and bucks under 30mph/2000rpm

[JDraper]

Bad MAF will do it...Glad it runs well...amazing how many "new parts" are defective...

 

[FreeUlster]

Well, bad thing happened. I go out to start it and nothing, Battery dead. I get a jump and within a mile the headlight flash bright and blow out and then the truck just dies. So now I'm in the middle of the road with a black truck, I'm wearing black(for work, don't ask) at night with no power for even a flasher. Wife comes and jumps it again. Headlights are out I try Hi beams and the go on for a second and blow out. Also the original sputtering at low speed is back. I'm losing it with this truck. 190,000 miles and that looks like it's all she wrote.

 

[levishake]

you need to check how many volts your alternater is charging asap, sounds like it's over charging, would does your battery gauge say on the dash when your running it?

 

[FreeUlster]

It is generally in the middle of the gage and slightly to the right. It does "bounce" a little and the lights would pulse but only noticeable if your are looking for it. This is the third alt since I bought the truck in 2000. Its an autozone cheapo alt. The battery was down because I was using the 'sploder to charge/jump my project car on Saturday. I just shut the truck off without letting it charge. It did start back up when the wife jumped it but the damn sputtering is back. I just parked it and took the wifes car to work. Strong ozone smell when it went out. I hope I didn't fry the electronics. I'll be real pissed if the MAF i just bought got toasted.

 

[Mud Bug 94]

x2 on the alt....

 

[levishake]

If you get another alternator and you have the same problem, i would check the volts on the hot wire in your connector that snaps in the alternator, not the large one that is held on with a nut, but the one in the connector that snaps, that wire is one where the alternator senses the electrical load in the vehicle, I had a similar case on a chevy, one in ahwile it would run around 19 volts, sombody rewired it and it had a bad connection where somtimes it would only show 7 to 8 volts on that hot wire in the connector, so the alternator thinks the vehicle is under a heavy load so it opens up the regulator. just a thought

 

[FreeUlster]

The thing I don't understand is why it idles and revs without a hiccup. I can even floor it in reverse and go like a bat out of hell. But, put her in drive and it cuts out and stalls. I did get CEL code #14. I changed out the ICM. Now I get NO trouble codes at all, but it still won't drive.

 

[FreeUlster]

Well the problem is gone. I did 4 things and don't know exactly which fixed it for sure. First I rerouted the ground wire that runs from above the solenoid to the frame. I moved the wiring harness on the passenger frame rail back from the manifold. I re taped the lighting harness where it crosses the ICM. Lastly I cleaned the positive wires at the battery and replaced the clamp. Probably was the positive wire to the battery but I can't say for sure. It runs like new. Starts regardless of temperature and now stalling or cutting out.
Thank you to everyone who offered their help.